[Budro2]

Hold the sheave so it doesn’t turn.
If it still doesnt brake loose then it’s a power issue.
A 20 volt cordless on the highest setting snaps those nuts loose no problem.
If it’s a power issue then the greater issue will be a lack of enough torque when you go back together.
If you know the battery is sufficiently charged and it’s still not doing it buy a Milwaukee or Dewalt 20 volt.

 

[urbangreyman]

It has to be a power issue.
A 20 volt cordless on the highest setting snaps those nuts loose no problem.
If it’s a power issue then the greater issue will be a lack of enough torque when you go back together.
If you know the battery is sufficiently charged and it’s still not doing it buy a Milwaukee or Dewalt 20 volt.

Ok off to the Lowe’s, it just does not seem to spin, it spins when not on the nut but nothing budged just see metal bits

 

[Budro2]

Ok off to the Lowe’s, it just does not seem to spin, it spins when not on the nut but nothing budged just see metal bits

Be sure to hold that sheave with the other hand. If the sheave turns then the nut has no chance to bust loose.

 

[urbangreyman]

Be sure to hold that sheave with the other hand. If the sheave turns then the nut has no chance to bust loose.

Yes I did that, Home Depot only has a 18v Milwaukee but it’s torque is 1500 vs 500 on ryobi

 

[jimclemjr]

If you are going to torque it back with a wrench then holding will be needed. I have made one out of an old Honda timing belt and a bar and I just cut off a tooth or two when I wrap it and it holds most all.
If you are seeing metal bits, check to make sure the socket is correct size.

 

[jimclemjr]

Yes I did that, Home Depot only has a 18v Milwaukee but it’s torque is 1500 vs 500 on ryobi

My Ridgid 18V does a good job and is part of my system, but they are hard to find in the stores in my area.

 

[urbangreyman]

What is that rigids torque power

 

[urbangreyman]

Just to verify this does remove with counter clockwise movement or is it backwards

 

[Budro2]

Just to verify this does remove with counter clockwise movement or is it backwards

It is righty tighty lefty loosey

 

[urbangreyman]

Got it! How does the face look so far

 

[urbangreyman]

 

[urbangreyman]

 

[urbangreyman]

pre cleaning

 

[urbangreyman]

Cleaned up these so far, a little jagged edges where the weights come to stop on the lip of that disc. I will hit with a file very softly to get it polished smooth, most look good only one is kinda whoa. If the rest is looking good I have a chance to get Yama ultra matic grease from local hama dealer. Should I slap in the ultra grease and re assemble install and take it for a maximum of 20 mile trail ride or wait till the tinkseal and weights come Saturday. I’m jonesing to get it riding

 

[Budro2]

Face looks fine.
Collar and seal look like the grease was dry as hell. Yamalube sucks.
File cam plate if you like but not necessary. As you can see the weights aren’t traveling all the way the the sharp edge so they won’t get scalped.
I would Wait for the Tinkseal. It will be slick even if it became dry and it conditions the seals so they last longer, but it won’t be the end of the world if you gotta ride, Yamalube and old weights will continue on, another cycle. You will need some poly grease for the secondary if you go that route.
Secondary will likely have a slight dish in the face.

 

[Viking2020]

Yes I did that, Home Depot only has a 18v Milwaukee but it’s torque is 1500 vs 500 on ryobi

I use a pneumatic Ingersoll Rand impact and it breaks the nut loose without holding the sheave.

 

[urbangreyman]

Face looks fine.
Collar and seal look like the grease was dry as hell. Yamalube sucks.
File cam plate if you like but not necessary. As you can see the weights aren’t traveling all the way the the sharp edge so they won’t get scalped.
I would Wait for the Tinkseal. It will be slick even if it became dry and it conditions the seals so they last longer, but it won’t be the end of the world if you gotta ride, Yamalube and old weights will continue on, another cycle. You will need some poly grease for the secondary if you go that route.
Secondary will likely have a slight dish in the face.

so I could technically be ok if lubed with Yama and reinstalled for a short days ride and then break down on Saturday rebuild with new parts? The seal did look slightly worn with an area of dried dust less than inch, the rest was thick black grease

 

[Budro2]

so I could technically be ok if lubed with Yama and reinstalled for a short days ride and then break down on Saturday rebuild with new parts? The seal did look slightly worn with an area of dried dust less than inch, the rest was thick black grease

Yes, you could get by short time if the labor doesn’t bother you and the ride is important.
I would be concerned about the seal long term.
The black grease is normal at the time of service. It is slowly contaminated by dust over the cycle. Even Tinkseal which is pure white will be grey in color after a 100 miles or less.

 

[urbangreyman]

Yes, you could get by short time if the labor doesn’t bother you and the ride is important.
I would be concerned about the seal long term.
The black grease is normal at the time of service. It is slowly contaminated by dust over the cycle. Even Tinkseal which is pure white will be grey in color after a 100 miles or less.

I’m about to install the little blocks, I can look online but what way do the little notches sit in the collar when installed, should you see them from top view or do the notches sit facing the weights inside

also how’s the line job look here I think it’s 90grams worth the Yama bottle says 127grams total with about a third remaining in bottle now

 

[urbangreyman]

Notch down! Reference my old pics lol