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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the KFI Pro-poly snowplow installed on the Wolverine and suffered a spring failure. Plowing 4-5" of snow and the plow tripped damaging the trip springs. Pulled right out of the eye bolts. They were originally installed at the top settings (least tension, top hole and no eyebolt tension) and after stretching out needed to be re-bent in a vice and add tension to finish plowing. Contacted KFI and they said user error and not faulty springs. I was supposedly plowing too fast and didn't stop before tripping. My speed was well below the YT demo videos posted. In any case they told me to buy new ones but if they are going to fail each time I need another solution. I can go back to my ATV plow which worked great for years but is smaller of course. Has anyone encountered this problem and have a solution? Seems like some stronger springs will resolve the issue but if no one but me is having the issue I'll chalk it up to an obscure failure. I just want to avoid having to stock an inventory of springs to be able to clear the snow. Suggestions appreciated.
 

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Got the KFI Pro-poly snowplow installed on the Wolverine and suffered a spring failure. Plowing 4-5" of snow and the plow tripped damaging the trip springs. Pulled right out of the eye bolts. They were originally installed at the top settings (least tension, top hole and no eyebolt tension) and after stretching out needed to be re-bent in a vice and add tension to finish plowing. Contacted KFI and they said user error and not faulty springs. I was supposedly plowing too fast and didn't stop before tripping. My speed was well below the YT demo videos posted. In any case they told me to buy new ones but if they are going to fail each time I need another solution. I can go back to my ATV plow which worked great for years but is smaller of course. Has anyone encountered this problem and have a solution? Seems like some stronger springs will resolve the issue but if no one but me is having the issue I'll chalk it up to an obscure failure. I just want to avoid having to stock an inventory of springs to be able to clear the snow. Suggestions appreciated.
What height do you have your wear skids set to or at
 

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What height do you have your wear skids set to or at
Looking at the pictures it looks like you have the plow sitting right on the dirt. You neee to just your wear skids so the blade is about 3/4 to 1 inch off the ground then it won't hook as often and break springs
 

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No way thats user error. Tripping the springs should not damage them. Either their design sucks, their materials suck or both.
 
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Agree, no way that is user error. Regardless of where the skids are set, that shouldn't happen to those springs. That is what they are designed for!
10 years with a Warn Provantage plow on my ATV and I trip mine a lot. I've replaced my wear bar once, but nothing else. Springs work great...glad they are there or it would be me going over the front of the machine!
 

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Looks like you have too much tension on the springs. Put new springs on it and drop the spring tension way down so they don’t strech so much when you hit something that makes it trip. (Eye bolts)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the responses. First installed springs were in the top hole and longest eye bolt length. That's the minimum tension I could set. When they tripped over they pulled out and in the top photos. We put them in a vice to pound a hook back to finish plowing. Because they stretched out we did have to go down a hole and tighten the eye bolts.

This is a bigger plow than my atv and seems like the springs should be larger and stronger to not pull out at full trip. Kfi support said I'm going too fast and need to stop before it trips over which seems impossible to me. Like mentioned full trip with the atv plow never wrecked the springs. I thought that was the point to protect the plow and push bar.

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I wonder if their springs that are on their steel blade plows are larger/heavier and would work better for you? I have the KFI 72” steel plow and have flipped / tripped the blade only twice this winter (first winter with it) but no damage to anything. And this 72” steel plow is heavy.
 

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I purchased some of that really heavy rubber mat they have at Tractor supply. 1/4 thick.
I removed the cutting edge from my plow. I cut 2 strips from the mat about 4 inches wide. I purchased longer bolts as well. I put the rubber in as the cutting edge bolted it all in place with the rubber sticking out about 1 1/2.
It works perfectly now no abrupt catching on rocks, roots or whatever.
It also acts like a squeegee and cleans up the snow real well.
I can post pics if you want but I will need to take a couple.
 

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I’ve plowed 4 times so far set up like this. The plow hasn’t tripped once. It just glides over everything but it takes the snow away down to the dirt. The rubber is holding up well as I expected. My alternative is the 3/8 mat they have if the 1/4 didn’t hold up
 

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It looks like the rubber may fold under the blade, does it?
 

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the rubber holds the plow off the ground I doubled the layers of material so its like 1/2 inch thick. The plow isnt heavy enough to roll the rubber back far enough to make the plow touch the ground. I dont use plow pads at all. Im not plowing paved driveways I plow my moms place and mine both are very large spaces both are dirt and gravel it gave the plow a good test run.
Ive seen this rubber idea used on the big snow pushers they use in the big mall parking lots not all pushers have these some are a metal cutting edge. which one do you think cleans up snow best in those big paved lots?
they also have 3/8 thick rubber at TS and this rubber is very durable Ive plowed 4 times and if you look at my pics except for the rubber being bent a little it is not damaged in any other way. trust me when I say I am not easy on things Ive been as hard on it as I can I have ruined a cable on my winch already and have since gone to synthetic rope and the fairlead without the rollers. seems to working well.
 

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Also I have an older 54" eagle plow that has the eye on the plow where you hooked the winch. I removed the eyelet and put a pulley there then I ran the winch rope through the pulley and back to the front bumper. this distributes weight better and it s easier on my winch rope. most of the new plows already set up like this it is a better set up
 

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the rubber holds the plow off the ground I doubled the layers of material so its like 1/2 inch thick. The plow isnt heavy enough to roll the rubber back far enough to make the plow touch the ground. I dont use plow pads at all. Im not plowing paved driveways I plow my moms place and mine both are very large spaces both are dirt and gravel it gave the plow a good test run.
Ive seen this rubber idea used on the big snow pushers they use in the big mall parking lots not all pushers have these some are a metal cutting edge. which one do you think cleans up snow best in those big paved lots?
they also have 3/8 thick rubber at TS and this rubber is very durable Ive plowed 4 times and if you look at my pics except for the rubber being bent a little it is not damaged in any other way. trust me when I say I am not easy on things Ive been as hard on it as I can I have ruined a cable on my winch already and have since gone to synthetic rope and the fairlead without the rollers. seems to working well.
Is your plow steel or poly? I have a large dirt driveway also. Do you pick up more gravel with this or less? I hate the spring cleanup of raking all the gravel out of the yard and back into the driveway. I even start with the blade set higher off the ground until I get a good solid snow or ice pack, then lower it. and is that the original steel scraper you used on top of the rubber? I had the pulley on my old quad with the rope going up to the front rack similar to what you have. On my Viking I have a warn fareLead with the bottom roller being extra large 2” in diameter and a plow strap, this works great also.
 

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The plow is metal and I did use the old edge. I flipped it over and clamped the rubber down with it. as far as I’m seeing the only area that’s being dragged out is the top of my driveway where I’ve used crushed stone. It looks really nice but it tracks in the house and I wouldn’t suggest it to any one else to use in this way. I figure I don’t like a slippery driveway so I’m gonna be doing some spring clean up.
We have a foot of snow coming on Tuesday I’m actually excited!! LOL the plows gonna come in really handy.
I just returned from a 90 mile rail trail ride today. The sun was shining and it was a blustery 18 degrees at its warmest but I was content.
I’m so spoiled here in Maine my average speed today was 35/40 and sometimes 45 if I wanna hear the old lady bi&ch!
Lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wonder if their springs that are on their steel blade plows are larger/heavier and would work better for you? I have the KFI 72” steel plow and have flipped / tripped the blade only twice this winter (first winter with it) but no damage to anything. And this 72” steel plow is heavy.
I wondered the same because they seemed weaker than my atv plow with a smaller blade. When I inquired for warranty replacement I was told they use the same spring for all models and it is user error. If I let it fully trip I should expect them to be damaged. Sounds like a design flaw to me.

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Anyone who asked about a plow. Steel Always rules. You need the weight for pressure. There is no hydraulic down pressure like a truck can apply. Steel can be repaired. I end up catching my blade often enough and tipping the blade activating the springs. Its what they're for, so it can buckle under high force. LOL

Escalate to a manager if you can or want to. Anyone who's plowed know this is normal to happen (blades tipping pulling the springs).
 

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Good thread. I was thinking poly buy now I'm going to go steel
It rules, you can reinforce it, weld and repair it, easily modify it with reasonable skills and/or find a friend that can.
 
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