[SKELLEY521]

Since I'm waiting on several parts, I thought I would check out the weights since I have a bad cam drive plate.
The weights all weigh 18g
Exactly 300 miles on them.
All the weights look good except 2, but I don't think it's a show stopper.
The wear is on the side edges as you can tell from the lighter color and 1 has developed a burr like area.
I'm going to save them as I picked up another set for the new sheave.
I blame all this on the cam drive plate being defective and I believe the new one will confirm this.
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Burr like peel on top of right roller.

I didn't use any cleaners on these, just wiped the Tinkseal film off with a paper towel.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Time to break out the new weights.
Nothing like fresh powder in the afternoon....lol.
All HV weights weigh 18g
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[SKELLEY521]

Cleaning up the Primary shaft sleeve.
I push it laterally to counter the longitudinal marks.
Clean both ends to ensure there's no build up or burrs so it faces up true.
Also clean inside both ends where the bearing faces are.
I'm calling it good, just need to flush it all out.
Pics...
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[SKELLEY521]

One thing I've noticed about Tinkseal is that stays where you put it even under centrifugal forces.
All the white area on the cam plate and behind the Primary roller wear area is Tinkseal.
Also notice the Primary shaft area as it shows Tinkseal in a clear film state and it's adhering to the metal creating a lube film barrier.
Very Impressive IMHO.
Pics.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Now it's time to prep my New Hunterworks Sheave.
I used about 1g of Tinkseal. It's just how I want to do my service. Your mileage may very.
I'm going to use 100% Tinkseal when I fill the shaft area and I'm going to use my 50/50 mix of Tinkseal/Mobile CM-W grease on the roller weights.
Prep Pics..
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[jimclemjr]

Skelley: I'm just skimming this but thought I would give you a thought if I understand all your presentation correctly. If you have not already, you might check the secondary spring for square. I would trust that you have ground and polished the sliding areas so they slip easier. Getting pressure at a clock point could make it bind.
On the cam plate, try and use a dial indicator on the bottom of the sheave flutes to verify if it is running true and then do the same for the plate. I would set up a jig and do that while on the primary shaft and hand rotate. Might bolt cam plate on upside down and easier to check that way.????? If they are not consistent spacing you could be squeezing a weight or two but maybe you can clock the plate to help??

 

[SKELLEY521]

Good points Jim.
I've had issues with the original cam drive plate cutting weights & flat spotting since first inspection.
Actually I didn't put my finger on it until I had reinstalled and was sitting around looking at pictures.
I went back in and pulled it to verify and get pics.
Then as some have noted in this thread, it's a possible known issue.
I tried to salvage the plate as parts were not available due to covid and thought I was able to remedy the issue.
This inspection proved that I fixed the cutting edge issue, but from inspection, it appears there is still binding.

I'm going to do a visual inspection with straightedges to spot any obvious areas.
I thought about the indicator runout, but it's subject to change under spring tension and running positon.
It's still a possibility to at least try and get a runout where possible to see what it shows.
Thanks Jim

 

[SKELLEY521]

Tinkseal on Primary movable shaft.
My 50/50 mix in rollers.
It may look like a lot, but I clean the butter knife on the top edge of the sheave so most of the lube is on the top half.
I used 1-1/2 tablespoons per roller section this time.
I will test run and verify lube level is where I want it. I'll get pics and update then.
Pics....
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[SKELLEY521]

To retouch on why I used the amount I do...
Pic description.
A. As Found, OEM factory packed Primary Movable Sheave Lube Level.
B. After a test run using the recommended amount of Lube. IIRC it called for 3/4 tablespoon per section, but I used 1 tablespoon instead.
C. I added 1/4 to 1/2 tablespoon more, to each section, to get the level to reach the cam drive plate edge. Pic from this service.

So this time around, I jumped straight to 1-1/2 tablespoon per section. I'll cycle it on a test run and verify later.
To me, I see a movable seal and that's where I want to run it. To each their own.
Pic....
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[SKELLEY521]

Ok enough sheave porn for tonight, you'll go blind....lol.
Anyways I need more parts, so the mailman gets a dirty look every time he does a drive-by

 

[SKELLEY521]

Well the new Cam and Fixed Primary won't be here until next week.
Cam was $61 and Fixed Primary was $58 plus shipping @ Partzilla.

I wasn't going to show every step of the service, but since I'm changing things up I decided to show some of it.
In the First part of this thread, I wanted to do it mostly by the book, but now it's going to be done my way.

Jumping to Secondary Prep....

 

[SKELLEY521]

Secondary Prep.
After cleaning all old lubes I cut a piece of fine scotch-brite and cleaned the sheave faces.
The higher & lower part of the sheaves (where the belt didn't travel before) had a bunch of crud and build-up.
It took a fair amount of pressure to get it all removed. Then I finish cleaning the entire faces in a circular motion.
Cleaned up pics....
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This time I'm putting the Bel-Ray Assembly lube (40% Moly) on all splines. I the like higher moly for this application.
I went ahead and coated the splines inside the secondary with Moly and applied my Tinkseal/Mobile mix to both bearing faces.
I may have even slopped a little extra behind the bearing edge lip for good measure....lol.
You can see the Moly on the splines and my mix on each end.
Pic..
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Hopefully the new spring cup comes soon so I can wrap up the secondary.

 

[SKELLEY521]

One thing to note, if it's your first time cleaning the Sheaves, watch out for any sharp edges or burrs.
This is the one I found last time and it is razor sharp.
I scraped some dirt off my hand to get it to show in the pics, but it will cut you if you're not careful.
I knocked it down using light pressure with a fine hone and finished with emery paper to ensure it was removed. Then used scotch-brite to finish.
Just something to note....
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[SKELLEY521]

From earlier in the thread, I posted pic of sheave wear.
Now that I have a new Hunterworks Primary Movable and new OEM Primary Fixed, I was thinking about Secondary wear.
As you'll see in the pic below, my Primary Fixed looks great with very minimal wear and I wasn't even close to needing the other half.
Since I was ordering other parts, $57.68 just seemed to good to pass up......lol

First a link to Massives thread with links to Yamaha's Tech Docs. Maintenance and schedule for the Yamaha Wolverine X2/X4 CVT

Pic from last service showing wear...

The Secondary Sheaves are under plenty of tension from the spring.
I'm going to call this acceptable wear at this point.

As long as I don't notice any ill effects with back shifting, etc, I'm going to run it and I will re-evaluate it at next service.
That should get me to around 4600 mile mark.
I wouldn't be surprised if I replace both Secondary halves then plus throw in a new belt for good measure.

Secondary Fixed Shaft; guide pin holes and guide pins all look good.
So does the Secondary Movable pin guides and bearing faces.

I replaced both seals in the Secondary Movable as they were not replaced last service (Covid backorder), but will reuse the O-rings as they only have 300 miles on them.
Enough talk....Pics....
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Don't forget to use scotch-brite and clean where the spring cup seats.
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[SKELLEY521]

I decided to pull the support cage bearing.
Using a bling hole puller, I found that Bearing Extractor: 5/8" to 1" (18mm-25mm) works perfectly.
I recorded the depth with a mic just to be sure, but it looks like there is a raised seat in the bottom for the bearings outer race to seat on.
Pics.....
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Old Bearing.
Outer bearing race depth is exactly .375" (3/8")

This bearing is in pretty tight and took several slams to remove.
Cleaned everything up and put a thin coat of Moly on the outside bearing race and the rim of the hole to aid install and removal later.
New bearing is also a really tight fit. My bearing/seal drivers were not the right size so I used a 1-1/4" socket that fit perfect to install.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Prepping to pack for spring cup seat, I thought I would just see what a 1/16" Teflon washer would look like.
The O-ring might seal, but I'd feel better if it was thinner.
I don't have any thinner material on hand, but just thought I'd share.
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[SKELLEY521]

New Spring Cup Seat arrived.
Only difference I can see is that my old one has a indent groove near the top then flares out slightly curling back in on the edge.
New Cup is straight all the way.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Not many pics, but..
~ I put a thin skim coat of Tinkseal on Fixed Secondary shaft.
~ A thick coat of Moly/Tinkseal mix inside of Secondary Moveable and leveled it out by taking a scale around riding on outer seals.
~ Installed Movable onto Fixed. I figured it would push out what it couldn't handle. Much like using the sleeve on the Primary Movable does.
Not much came out surprisingly, so I wasn't surprised it wouldn't take much more when I tried packing the Pin Grooves.
~ I ran a scale around to level out with the height of the O-rings.
~ Prepped the Spring Cup with Tinkseal on the inside and Moly/Tink on outside/inside lip. This worked great before for 300 miles, now let's see long term.

New Seals are worth every penny.
I know this is packed with way more lube than last time and when I operated the sheave by hand, I barely had any bypass lubricant to clean.
I did raise the cup slightly with a screwdriver and clean a little excess lube under the cup. I just want a skim coat left there.

Old seals leaked just using the recommended amount, which is barely adequate in my honest opinion.
Again, how much you choose to use it up to you.

Couple Pics...
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[SKELLEY521]

I take pics of my service to document wear so I have a reference I can refer back to.
Since I'm waiting on parts, I was scrolling through pics looking at wear. I didn't give it much thought then, but looking at this pic now has my thinking cap on.

Why is this burr and wear eccentric?
Notice how the burr is on the inside closer to the wear pattern of the sheave and moves outward going from left to right and further away from wear pattern.
Notice how the wear pattern is eccentric and also eccentric from the burr?
Some things that come to mind as possibilities are: shaft deflection; alignment; harmonics; accumulative wear of secondary shafts or a minor combination giving this result.
Pic..
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Anyhow, it took 2600 miles to develop so it's not a major concern, but it was the first 2600 miles on a new machine.
This burr was on the Secondary sheaves. I don't recall if it was more prominent on the Fixed or Movable.

Since I'm Upgrading to the Hunterworks Primary Movable Sheave, I expect that with farther belt travel now in the Secondary, that I will not see this indictor.
Going forward for those that are running all stock CVT components, it may be something worth looking for and monitoring.

 

[SKELLEY521]

I finished up the Secondary.
Before installing the spring, I noticed the upper half would collapse on it's own weight.
That tells me everything is well lubed and free moving.
I cleaned any bypass lube until it stopped, which was very minimal thanks to new seals, and both faces really good.

I Installed UPI's green spring for this testing cycle.
I could tell there was more spring tension for sure.

The nut has a flat side and a rounded edge side and the flat had developed high spots from removal I noticed.
I filed it flat before install and used a light coat of moly on the inside of the seat plate.

Now I'm waiting on Partzilla so I can finish the Primary.

Pic...
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