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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I bought some Red-n-Tacky from Lucas that I was wanting to mix w/ Tinseal to test on those bushings, but shipping got delayed, so I rolled with my other mix.
 

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2019 Yamaha Wolverine X2 R Spec Special Edition in Tactical Black
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Wish I had read this post before I decided to grease the rear knuckles...argghhhh I broke the bottom zerk off and now have to get it out and replace it. I was wondering if you know what size the grease fittings are? I know they are 45 degrees but is the threading 6mm or 1/4 " ?
This weekend I pulled off the rear knuckle to fix a broken zerk...it is not a fun job especially when you are beating yourself up about breaking the zero in the first place ....how to make 2 minute job into a 3 hour job .grrrrr. Regardless, I learned a lot and now know how to replace an axle....( something positive )

For the benefit of others you need a 32mm 6 sided impact socket for the axle nut...why the Yamma engineers chose to stake the nut instad of using a cotter pin i will never know...you need a punch and a hammer to move it out from the slot in the axle.... I got the staked part about half way then used the socket and a 30" breaker bar and it finally came loose...the rest is pretty straight forward bolts and nuts to move the brake caliper and the knuckle. Watch you don't pull the inboard CV away from the diff or it will piss out diff fluid. Probably good practice to throw a drain pan under the diff so you dont have to clean up the mess like i did .....The fittings are 45 degree 6mm threaded zerks.once you get the knuckle off it is pretty easy to remove whats left of the old zerk. Once you replace the fitting go ahead and grease the crap out of it ...it's way easier to do it when it's lying on the bench and you have easy access. Put it all back together ... to those of you who might share the broken Zerk experience ... good luck and try not to get too pissed off with yourself like i did

Hope this helps
 

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This weekend I pulled off the rear knuckle to fix a broken zerk...it is not a fun job especially when you are beating yourself up about breaking the zero in the first place ....how to make 2 minute job into a 3 hour job .grrrrr. Regardless, I learned a lot and now know how to replace an axle....( something positive )

For the benefit of others you need a 32mm 6 sided impact socket for the axle nut...why the Yamma engineers chose to stake the nut instad of using a cotter pin i will never know...you need a punch and a hammer to move it out from the slot in the axle.... I got the staked part about half way then used the socket and a 30" breaker bar and it finally came loose...the rest is pretty straight forward bolts and nuts to move the brake caliper and the knuckle. Watch you don't pull the inboard CV away from the diff or it will piss out diff fluid. Probably good practice to throw a drain pan under the diff so you dont have to clean up the mess like i did .....The fittings are 45 degree 6mm threaded zerks.once you get the knuckle off it is pretty easy to remove whats left of the old zerk. Once you replace the fitting go ahead and grease the crap out of it ...it's way easier to do it when it's lying on the bench and you have easy access. Put it all back together ... to those of you who might share the broken Zerk experience ... good luck and try not to get too pissed off with yourself like i did

Hope this helps
A few tips from someone who’s experienced at all that as well, and not saying my zerk experience would be the same as anyone else’s, however, before getting a lock and lube for the job I have broke off 3 of them. I understand the frustration when the gun is hung up and won’t come off. I put a very small easy out in mine and turned all 3 out with only my fingers. With the threads greased the stub with no head on it was pretty loose in there. If you can’t access the hole with the easy out, remove the rear shock, (two bolts) now you can block the hub up in a high position to change the angle of the hole with the broken stub in it! No knuckle removal required on mine so I’d try that first.
With a good impact gun there is no need for a hammer and punch on the staked nut. I’ve done it both ways but I just zap them off now. It does less damage to the nut where you need to re-stake it when you put it back on.
If your going to have to pop the axle out of the final or diff for any reason, jack and block up that side of the car a little so it’s tilted the other way, then have a small shop towel ready and stuff it in the hole. The fluid is thick enough that it runs slow anyway so you can plug the hole before you lose any at all or enough to matter, and no big mess!
 

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I to went through the frustration many times. Then I started just takiing the knuckle apart to clean and grease everything. Is not very hard and probably helps save time in the long run.
 

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I broke a zerk on mine when it was new. I had tried to grease them, unsuccessfully and the coupler was on so so tight. I broke the end off trying to remove it. OMG I was ticked. I have since learned that I could have released the pressure by loosening the end, unscrewing the tip a bit on the couple.

When I took it in for the 1st service it was discovered by the mechanic when he tried to grease it. He replaced it the following day since he did not have a compatible on in stock. I have had them grease it since then as well.
 
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The grease zerks on at least all of the Gen 1 Wolverines are cheap zerks (poor quality) probably made in China. If you replace them with some good quality zerks you won't break them. I broke one, I think the first time I greased it, and found a good quality one at Ace Hardware and replaced all of them when I saw the difference in quality. No more broken grease zerks since then and I jerk on the grease gun pretty good and sideways sometimes to get the grease coupling loose.
 

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I bought one of the locking type couplers that can easily be released and won't come off. This is that its much bigger than the normal knozzle and won't fit in some places. LOL can't win for trying.
 

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I have one of those too. Its great for normal things that you can get to easily. I also bought a kit with a bunch of different adapters and sizes. I think there is a short 90 in it that I can use. I also have one that looks like an S that might work.
 

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A few tips from someone who’s experienced at all that as well, and not saying my zerk experience would be the same as anyone else’s, however, before getting a lock and lube for the job I have broke off 3 of them. I understand the frustration when the gun is hung up and won’t come off. I put a very small easy out in mine and turned all 3 out with only my fingers. With the threads greased the stub with no head on it was pretty loose in there. If you can’t access the hole with the easy out, remove the rear shock, (two bolts) now you can block the hub up in a high position to change the angle of the hole with the broken stub in it! No knuckle removal required on mine so I’d try that first.
With a good impact gun there is no need for a hammer and punch on the staked nut. I’ve done it both ways but I just zap them off now. It does less damage to the nut where you need to re-stake it when you put it back on.
If your going to have to pop the axle out of the final or diff for any reason, jack and block up that side of the car a little so it’s tilted the other way, then have a small shop towel ready and stuff it in the hole. The fluid is thick enough that it runs slow anyway so you can plug the hole before you lose any at all or enough to matter, and no big mess!
Yep. Get a lockNlube and change your life - for the better.
 

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I got one but a different brand. Too big for many tight locations
 

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Whatever grease is in my grease gun. Usually red and tacky.
 
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