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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering what everyone uses to lubricate suspension & moving parts.

I have been using 2 products mostly with good results and squeak/noise free.

1) MOLY CHAIN LUBRICANT
2) White Lithium Grease

I use both on all moving parts
 
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Both good products!

The thing I don’t like about white lithium in a spray can is when it’s spatters on places you don’t want it. It leaves a different residue color and it’s nearly impossible to even power wash it off.

A dry graphite lube really works good too and it doesn’t attract dirt like sticky chain lubes.

I think they all have their place!
 
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I was using Liquid Wrench's dry lube with Cerflon but now use Tinkseal 'grease'. I do like that there's less waste than with a spray canister as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since we don't have grease fitting everywhere, the chain/pin lube penetrates good.
The straw on the WD grease helps pinpoint locations also.
 

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Yes all that grease for four fittings on the rear. :redface:
 

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This is a good test of grease...
 

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Looking for some guidance. Fairly new x4 and am at about 30hrs and thinking I should probably grease this thing.

Can someone walk me through what and where exactly should get greased on the X4, what kind of grease (grease gun) I should use and how often?

Appreciate it!
 

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Whatevers in my grease gun that day.
 
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So where are you guys spraying this lubricant....control arm bushings that don't have grease fittings?
 
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Looking for some guidance. Fairly new x4 and am at about 30hrs and thinking I should probably grease this thing.

Can someone walk me through what and where exactly should get greased on the X4, what kind of grease (grease gun) I should use and how often?

Appreciate it!
The only grease fittings I have found (or know about) are the four on the rear knuckles, two on each side. They are extremely difficult to reach even with the wheels off and calipers removed. Even when I get the gun on the zerk it is hard to pump grease into them. On another thread here people explained how they do it: 2019 yamaha wolverine x2 rear knuckle pivot zerks will not accept grease

Pay attention to post #3 in that thread: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...not-accept-grease-post325236.html #post325236

I didn't know a regular grease gun coupler can be tightened or loosened to facilitate going on and off the zerk. I broke one of my zerks trying to get mine off. I had to completely remove the rear knuckle to replace the broken zerk fitting. My advice: do not grease your rear knuckles until you understand this. And - even when you do understand how the coupler works, it is very difficult to unscrew the coupler to get it off because it is under so much pressure! That's probably why the same guy recommends the LockNLube coupler.

I bought the Alemite 500-E Grease Gun at Amazon and it really made a difference. I was trying to avoid the extra $30 for the fancy coupler but I regretted not having it. So I bought the LockNLube Coupler but it won't be here until next week so I haven't tried it yet.

Alemite 500-E Grease Gun
Wow this thing is now listed for under $35, I paid almost $50!

LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler

I use this grease: Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease

I will start spraying all the other stuff that moves with what the OP suggested in post #1 of this thread.
 

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The only grease fittings I have found (or know about) are the four on the rear knuckles, two on each side. They are extremely difficult to reach even with the wheels off and calipers removed. Even when I get the gun on the zerk it is hard to pump grease into them. On another thread here people explained how they do it: 2019 yamaha wolverine x2 rear knuckle pivot zerks will not accept grease

Pay attention to post #3 in that thread: https://www.wolverineforums.com/for...not-accept-grease-post325236.html #post325236

I didn't know a regular grease gun coupler can be tightened or loosened to facilitate going on and off the zerk. I broke one of my zerks trying to get mine off. I had to completely remove the rear knuckle to replace the broken zerk fitting. My advice: do not grease your rear knuckles until you understand this. And - even when you do understand how the coupler works, it is very difficult to unscrew the coupler to get it off because it is under so much pressure! That's probably why the same guy recommends the LockNLube coupler.

I bought the Alemite 500-E Grease Gun at Amazon and it really made a difference. I was trying to avoid the extra $30 for the fancy coupler but I regretted not having it. So I bought the LockNLube Coupler but it won't be here until next week so I haven't tried it yet.

Alemite 500-E Grease Gun
Wow this thing is now listed for under $35, I paid almost $50!

LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler

I use this grease: Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease

I will start spraying all the other stuff that moves with what the OP suggested in post #1 of this thread.
This is a great jumping off point, thank you very much. Yes I was already eyeing the Alemite, but I am in Canada, looks like our Amazon has it for $52CAD (approx. $38US) so yes looks reasonably priced. I will likely order it.

Looks like there are 2 sizes of the LockNLube coupler as well:

https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=locknlube&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Which one are you guys using? (The longer one costs more than the Alemite itself!)

Bought some WD40 White Lithium this morning at 'Princess Auto' for all 'other' parts, just wondering, what are common areas you guys freely spray this stuff onto? (areas with no zerks).

Again thanks for the info.
 

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@Paul65

Hmm you're late to the Gate Paul.

I broke my Zerk that way last spring.Go figure....

It irks me a bit why the angle and location had to be so conditional to be able to be used. The dealer ended up replacing it and greasing them. I haven't yet since one attempt, reason obvious...

LOL
 

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So where are you guys spraying this lubricant....control arm bushings that don't have grease fittings?
Bought some WD40 White Lithium this morning at 'Princess Auto' for all 'other' parts, just wondering, what are common areas you guys freely spray this stuff onto? (areas with no zerks).
I have the same questions. OP said:

Just wondering what everyone uses to lubricate suspension & moving parts.

I have been using 2 products mostly with good results and squeak/noise free.

1) MOLY CHAIN LUBRICANT
2) White Lithium Grease

I use both on all moving parts

You use both, or one, or the other? As in three ways? And on any moving parts?
 

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2019 Yamaha Wolverine X2 R Spec Special Edition in Tactical Black
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The only grease fittings I have found (or know about) are the four on the rear knuckles, two on each side. They are extremely difficult to reach even with the wheels off and calipers removed. Even when I get the gun on the zerk it is hard to pump grease into them. On another thread here people explained how they do it: 2019 yamaha wolverine x2 rear knuckle pivot zerks will not accept grease

Pay attention to post #3 in that thread: 2019 yamaha wolverine x2 rear knuckle pivot zerks will...

I didn't know a regular grease gun coupler can be tightened or loosened to facilitate going on and off the zerk. I broke one of my zerks trying to get mine off. I had to completely remove the rear knuckle to replace the broken zerk fitting. My advice: do not grease your rear knuckles until you understand this. And - even when you do understand how the coupler works, it is very difficult to unscrew the coupler to get it off because it is under so much pressure! That's probably why the same guy recommends the LockNLube coupler.

I bought the Alemite 500-E Grease Gun at Amazon and it really made a difference. I was trying to avoid the extra $30 for the fancy coupler but I regretted not having it. So I bought the LockNLube Coupler but it won't be here until next week so I haven't tried it yet.

Alemite 500-E Grease Gun
Wow this thing is now listed for under $35, I paid almost $50!

LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler

I use this grease: Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease

I will start spraying all the other stuff that moves with what the OP suggested in post #1 of this thread.
Wish I had read this post before I decided to grease the rear knuckles...argghhhh I broke the bottom zerk off and now have to get it out and replace it. I was wondering if you know what size the grease fittings are? I know they are 45 degrees but is the threading 6mm or 1/4 " ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm pretty sure it's Metric and think they are 6mm as the 8mm look huge.
I bought both 6 & 8 Link, but didn't install them. I plugged mine off as I take them apart and lube with my Tinkseal / Moly mix.
Sorry, but maybe someone will confirm for 100% certainty.

As far as other spray lubricants, I swear by Sprayon LU202.
It use to be called Moly Chain Pin & Bushing Lube.
I know other mention similar products that are cheaper, but when I find something that works and works good, you'd have a better chance of pulling my eyeteeth with channel locks then getting me to switch....lol
 

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I'm pretty sure it's Metric and think they are 6mm as the 8mm look huge.
I bought both 6 & 8 Link, but didn't install them. I plugged mine off as I take them apart and lube with my Tinkseal / Moly mix.
Sorry, but maybe someone will confirm for 100% certainty.

As far as other spray lubricants, I swear by Sprayon LU202.
It use to be called Moly Chain Pin & Bushing Lube.
I know other mention similar products that are cheaper, but when I find something that works and works good, you'd have a better chance of pulling my eyeteeth with channel locks then getting me to switch....lol
I'pretty sure it's 6mm from the size just looking at it ... I can't imagine Yamaha using imperial measure fittings. Thanks for the input ...much appreciated
 

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Don't put Moly on anything with a spherical bearing. Molybdenum disulfide will pit the bearing surface and destroy bearings. I mix TinkSeal with Mobil1 red grease. 1 ounce of TinkSeal to a can of M1 red is sufficient. I use straight TinkSeal on all suspension bushings and bolted suspension joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Right Tinken, but once I looked at it, it's more of a bushing than a bearing.
Yamaha had used brown grease, so I put my bearing lube mix away and got out my Tinkseal / Bel-Ray Assembly lube.
I'll inspect it again this Summer when I disassemble for re-lube.
 
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on my outlander i actually used marine grade grease in my grease gun. Can-ams have a lot of grease zerks and the marine grade grease is harder to 'wash out' when you are mudding, puddle splashing, or driving through snow, etc.
 
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