Yamaha Wolverine Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anybody had any extended time on a light bar at idle yet on a wolverine. Or does anyone know at what rate or rpm they charge at. I am posting a text below from my son to me and you will see why i'm asking. I don't know the wattage but he has a full width light bar on a 900 white lightning rzr. My bar is only 20" on wolverine.

Rzr battery has died after the 45 minutes of using light bar with engine running on Saturday. I just read that the stator doesn't charge until at 3,000 rpm and only produces 500watts at full rpm so for future reference don't let your rig idle to keep it from dying. It will actually discharge faster while idling than with key off because it's running fuel injection, the fan, and the ECM. I'm sure yours and moms are similar
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Old Rhino's could do 250watts at idle. Polaris is crap (we all know that). The Wolverine should be 300watts easy. Easy way to test is with a full battery at 12.7 volts. If it's lower then it is being charged off the stator and using available watts.

Run it at idle and it would probably go up to 14 ish volts on the multimeter. Turn all your stuff on. If it goes below 12.7 volts, then you know it is draining your battery.

Oh I totally forgot, the Wolverine has the Battery display on the computer. Could turn everything on and watch it. Don't need a voltmeter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Here probably a dumb question, my switch for my light bar has a little red light on it when it's off, do you think that will drain my battery over time? Also since it's wired directly to the battery I can turn it on without the key being on, I'd like to have it work with the key like the headlights. How would I go about doing that? I'm afraid my kids will turn the light on without me knowing and drain the battery.
 

·
November WOTM Winner!
Joined
·
877 Posts
Here probably a dumb question, my switch for my light bar has a little red light on it when it's off, do you think that will drain my battery over time? Also since it's wired directly to the battery I can turn it on without the key being on, I'd like to have it work with the key like the headlights. How would I go about doing that? I'm afraid my kids will turn the light on without me knowing and drain the battery.
If the light is on the I'm assuming its probably an led so I wouldn't imagine the battery would go dead with very small amount of power draw. Its likely the light bar would come on if you have power to the switch then.
If you used a wiring harness with a relay like I did you can just run the power to the switch from an ignition on wire. Easiest one to use is the one from the 12v power socket, just splice into that and you only have power to the switch when the key is on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Yes it's just a led on the switch, I thought if it sat for a long time say a month or two in the winter time it might drain the battery. I guess my harness has a relay, some kind of little black box with it. So if I splice into the 12v socket are their 2 wires, one red and one ground? As you can probably tell wiring is not my thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Yes the red wire is the 12v positive.

What you will do is run a wire from your switch to the positive 12v outlet wire. The other wire from switch will run to the relay trigger terminal.

This way the switch only gets power when the key is on..

Sidenote: the led on the switch not work depending on the terminal on the switch..

If you're not used to wiring search Google for a schematic. Out remind me later and I'll draw a quick one up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
So I couldn't just run the wires I have going to the battery to it, does it have to come from the switch? I don't even know what a relay trigger terminal is or looks like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
That's not necessarily a good idea,

1. The light bar will come on whenever the key is on. Day or night. People typically don't like to be blinded by incoming traffic on the trails and will let you know..lol

2. You'll decrease the life of the light bar, yes led last a very long time, but it will.

3. That's more load on the factory electrical system. Each light bar pulls a certain amount amperage, if your bar 20amp of power and the factory 12v outlet uses a 15amp fuse you be blowing fuses every time.

But it's simple so I'll explain it to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Thanks for the help guys, I'll see it I can get some pics of what I have now and maybe that will help you guys to show me what is best. Like I said, wiring is definitely not my thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
215-albums9-picture789.gif

This is the diagram on how to wire a basic 4 or 5 terminal relay. I prefer 4 terminal just because the 5th terminal isn't used anyway. They can be bought for under $10 from most auto part store. (It's not a flasher relay) they normally stock the relay next to fog lights or electrical connectors.

An relay is just a switch that is flipped by an electro magnet vs a finger.. That's it.

The benefit is if you wire your light directly to the 12 volt outlet the amperage could be to high and cause the fuse to blow constantly, or worst melt the wires if it way to much amperage.

The relay bypasses this by powering the light directly from the battery. The 12volt it's only used to trigger the relay.. Some relay can be triggered by less than a volt.. So it's a much safer option. The 12v outlet is only powering the tiny electro magnet in the relay.. That's it no high current or amperage.

Ok. So like everything electrical, you need a positive and a ground.

The switch portion:

Ok. To trigger the relay you need a ground. Terminal 86.

To complete the circuit and activate the electro magnet you need a positive opposite your ground.. Terminal 85

However, you only want the relay to activate when you choose.. So terminal 85 goes to your switch. The other end of your switch goes to the red positive wire at the 12v outlet..


So you flip the switch, the power flows from the 12v outlet (when the key is on) to the relay causing it to click (triggering the switch)

The switch side:
This is terminal 30 which is the source you want to send.. Which is the positive from your battery.

The other side goes to the light (just like the wall at home) terminal 87 (light bar positive wire)

Lastly you just have to ground the ground wire on your light bar. This can be to the metal frame, or the battery.

It is that simple and much, much, much, safer and reliable vs just running it directly to the 12v outlet

This same diagram can be used for your radio, extra lights, etc..

If you want, run a wire from the wire that's positive when you turn your high beam headlights on, to terminal 85 ..
(trigger)

Now when you turn your headlights high beam on it will trigger the relay, turning the light bar on when the high beam headlight come on..

So use low beams when passing on the trail or the bar isn't needed. And the bar will come on when high beams are switched on.
 

·
November WOTM Winner!
Joined
·
877 Posts
If you have some problems you could probably take a few pics and we might be able to help you out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Run it at idle and it would probably go up to 14 ish volts on the multimeter. Turn all your stuff on. If it goes below 12.7 volts, then you know it is draining your battery.

Oh I totally forgot, the Wolverine has the Battery display on the computer. Could turn everything on and watch it. Don't need a voltmeter.
Genious! I don't know why i didn't think of that but here is what i found out anyway. I got my light bar installed and i will post pics later to the light bar thread but i put a 20" on the roof and it fits perfect. Fills the whole indention up but doesn't stick out. Its a 126 watt bar. At idle with it on the Wolverine will run forever without battery discharge. The battery voltage will drop to 13.8 and right back to 14.1 or 14.2. A full width bar might drop it some at idle but i just wanted to know if i were out using it for a really long time at idle i wouldn't have to worry about overcoming the charge rate at idle and discharge the battery. Polaris have to have some RPM's to charge but the Wolverines don't. Just another reason to buy YAMAHA!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I used a relay and wired my 44" led light bar to the high beam switch. Low beams has no light bar but when I flip over to high beams light bar comes on. If anyone is interested in doing this just buy a 4 prong relay and splice into the yellow wire on the back side of the headlight switch. It has a connector to unhook for more room. Also good idea to use a test light or digital voltemerer to check for high beam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
I want to run my battery power to a fuse block.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

Should I use a relay between the fuse block and each device?
You should only have to put a relay on the accessory if the amp draw is close to or greater than the output of the switch. You can put a relay between your battery and fuse block, then use the accessory plug wire to trigger the relay to power the block.
I have been researching a way to wire up some accessories and do it in a way that will leave room for future accessories. I had ordered a fuse block and another forum member recommended the "Rowe PDM". It is a power distribution module that
lets you wire up to six circuits without relays or fuses. I ended buying one cause it looks like it would really simplify installation and the amount of wires running around. All the media about it is geared toward motorcycles but it will work on ATV's and you
can run switches on each circuit.

Amazon has them for $185 right now in limited quantities. Thanks Mikesalois.

 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top