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Great service, Todd. Ordered on wed night last week. Shipped out Thursday morning. Arrived yesterday. Very fast! Thanks!
 
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Good choice
 

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Is there a video of the installation of this? I swear I've seen one befor.
 

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I've not seen a vid. It's pretty straightforward. I did more than needed cause I am not as limber as I used to be. Raised front end, placed on jackstands. Removed both front tires I removed L/F shock, but others have only removed the L/F top shock bolt and moved the shock out of the way. There's a radiator hose behind the shock. 12 ga shotshell fits in the hose real slick. Secured with hoseclamp just enough to not leak. 4 ea 10mm bolts holding fan shroud to back of radiator, 2 per side. Go to R/F. Look in wheel well. Pull clear breather hose attached to back side of fan out from in front of batt box and let it dangle. Trace wire harness from back of fan motor down to connector. There's a ziptie keeper on a crossbrace that can be fun to get to. Once you get the connector separated, pull the fan and shroud out from the L/F wheel well. Reverse what you just did to install new fan. Before you put the shock and tires back on, refill the radiator and coolant tank, and run it till the fan kicks on to confirm function. After it's all back together you might have to raise the front end 45 degrees or so and let it run to burp the cooling system. I used my winch and a handy tree to raise it up.
 

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I've been trying to keep an eye on mine. I went to spin it to see how well it spun freehand. Well the blade is so sharp that just me flicking it with my finger, sliced it pretty good.
 

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Tracen8r has all the steps listed. I removed the left wheel and shock only. Plug hose and radiator with the empty 12 ga shotgun hull and you will have minimal coolant loss. The whole process is easier than it sounds.
 
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What is involved with this, if this problem occurs?

"You may have to replace the fan circuit breaker with a larger one or a inline fuse. If your fan cuts on and off quickly this will need to be done. Feel free to call if this happens to you."
 

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What is involved with this, if this problem occurs?

"You may have to replace the fan circuit breaker with a larger one or a inline fuse. If your fan cuts on and off quickly this will need to be done. Feel free to call if this happens to you."
As it says, you simply replace the break with an inline fuse, just two wires. There is a link on our site on the fan page showing it to you.

Todd
 

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As it says, you simply replace the break with an inline fuse, just two wires. There is a link on our site on the fan page showing it to you.

Todd
Thank You.

The link didn't work yesterday for me.
What amp fuse do you use? Or where do you get a larger breaker.
I am going to replace my fan (before it dies) with yours, after a ride I have in March.
I just want to be ready if I have to replace my breaker.
 

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There is no circuit breaker specified in the manual but a control relay and 25A fuse which is individually marked having a label on it FAN. Easily seen once the hood is lifted.

How much does the replacement fan draw is not specified by Hunterworks but its easily metered with a high current tester. Mine only handle 10A. I don't see how its going to go anywhere near 20A let alone 25A.
 

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Thank You.

The link didn't work yesterday for me.
What amp fuse do you use? Or where do you get a larger breaker.
I am going to replace my fan (before it dies) with yours, after a ride I have in March.
I just want to be ready if I have to replace my breaker.
I just checked the link works, 20 amp and you can't buy these breakers that I know of.
 

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Well since I have gone over the schecmatic and found the breaker. They don't specify the current rating on it. There is a 25A fuse in the same circuit which confused me as to why there was a dual incircuit protection. It appears its an AUTO resetting circuit breaker.
If there is a fault in the circuit or fan and the current is exceeded it would repeatedly keep popping and reset and likely pop open again repeating the over current issue. I am not sure that is the best implementation. The driver would never know. A manual resetable circuit breaker would likely be best. This would force the owner to acknowledge a problem determine as to why its tripping. It depends on what you like to do.

Anyway, there are numerous choices here. https://www.ebay.ca/sch/Automotive/6000/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=12v+circuit+breaker+20A&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc

This is an inexpensive AUTO Reset circuit breaker. Loads of manual ones though. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MagiDeal-20A-12V-24V-Circuit-Breaker-Dual-Battery-Fuse-Automatic-Auto-Reset/163181234444?hash=item25fe5c090c:g:o5gAAOSw11Bb~-Op:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr
 

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Sorry for being a noob when it comes to electrical wiring.

I believe A is the breaker that needs to be replaced with the inline fuse. If so, should I be cutting and splicing the two wires at B or at C?

I know a lot of members have done this same fan install which means they had to replace this breaker. Can anyone post some pics of what they did or how to do it? That would be a big help to some of us, well maybe just me. Thanks.
 

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I would do it at C, which leaves the plugs still there should it need to be disconnected. You could get a Manual circuit breaker with a protection cap as in Red ones in the link I had posted. If it pops you just reset the breaker. If this fuse pops you have to have a spare on hand !!
 

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I had to replace the fan on my 04 Rhino and it had the same setup as the wolverine. I replaced the factory breaker with a 25 amp self resetting automotive circuit breaker a much better option in my opinion as you don't have to worry about a fuse blowing and not having a spare or running the risk of the fuse blowing while the kids are riding it and overheating it. I used a Hunterworks fan and I can tell you the shroud really makes a huge difference on the cooling ability it forces air to be drawn through the whole radiator instead of the area just behind the blades. If I ever need one I'll definitely order another one for my Wolverine.
 
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