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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I finally got around to installing the lift kit. Overall, I am happy with the kit. There is only one thing about it that irritates me; the instructions clearly state the factory steering boots are held on with plastic cable ties. They are not, they are secured like any other boot, with a metal clamp. I ended up using stainless steel hose clamps, because that is what I had handy at the time.

As for the amount of lift, before the kit I had 12" up front and 13.75" in back. This is with 28" Blackwater Evo's and spring preload tightened as far as it goes-9 full revolutions from stock. After the kit, I had 15" up front and 15.5" in back. Not exactly a 3.5" gain, but my springs have obviously got some issues to begin with, so I am elated that I got as much out of it as I did. And, the rake is nice, a .5" drop in front vs rear. Regarding stiffness, it actually feels smoother than it did before, and I think it's because my springs are shot, something in the geometry changed and it helped it get back into the normal operating range of the spring. It's still stiff, much more than stock, but I will gladly deal with it to stop bottoming out on EVERYTHING. I also noted the track width, it narrowed up about 1.75", but I got lucky and it turned out dead even at 61" front and rear. This is with a 1" aluminum spacer in the rear that i have bee running since the new tires last year. See pictures below for the results, I am happy with them.
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You'll have it made if you happen to run across any 5 gallon pails on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Just a quick update on this. Had the first real trail ride with this kit this weekend, and holy crap is it stiffer. Granted, my preload is cranked all the way up, but it is uncomfortably stiff in the terrain I ride. We have a ton of rocks, and huge washouts and ruts. On the smoother sections of trail and the mud it was great, but for the amount of rocks we ride it's just too stiff. I am going to play with the shock settings more, and if I can't get it noticeably softer I will remove some preload and see if I can find a compromise. Also, the turning radius SUCKS with the steering stops in place. Those are getting removed. I never had rubbing before the lift, and it didn't narrow the machine that drastically, so I think I should be fine, especially if I remove some preload. I won't be clearing buckets anymore, but usually I just need to clear basketballs and slightly larger lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another update.

I left the preload as I had it, and played with the shock settings. I ended up adjusting every setting to the softest, and it only made the rig bouncy lol, still stiff. So I putt all the shock settings back to the middle of the adjustment range, favoring the softer side just a little. I removed 6 full turns of preload from the rear springs, which makes it 3 turns stiffer than stock. I removed 9 full turns from the front, which is back to stock. With the new settings I am at 14.25" clearance in the back, and 14.5" in the front. I have a lot of weight in the back though, and with both my wife and I in the machine it levels out pretty good.

I rode it on the trails Saturday and it was night and day difference. Almost back to stock softness. Not quite, but almost. So I think if I took the last 3 turns out back, it would be about stock softness, maybe a tad stiffer. It was very comfortable, and although I lost some ground clearance, it wasn't much, and I was still able to get through everything and only bottomed out once lol. So for anyone considering this kit but worried about the ride being stiff, I would not worry at all as long as you keep preload stock or softer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
did you take the steering stops out?
Oh yes! I completely forgot to mention that. Yes I took them out and had ZERO rubbing, even though I have 28x10 tires. I was in very tight turns under full compression up front and it still didn't rub, so I can confidently say the steering stops are not needed to prevent tires rubbing. All in all, the kit is definitely the best bang for the buck out there IMO.
 

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Just an FYI, me coming from a racing background. You do realize the Wolverine suspension geometry is SUPPOSED to have approximately 2 inches of droop (aka free sag) to work properly, so you keep saying your springs are shot and I think you are misinterpreting droop as worn springs. this droop, or free sag is the reason why the Wolverine rides excellent to begin with. So removing that free sag is doing nothing but degrading the ride quality. Also, it sounds like that bracket lift is now making your a arm travel limited not by the shock length as it is intended from the manufacturer, but the frame interference at the a arm mounts, or in the ball joint angle. Neither of which is a good thing. Bracket lifts are garbage, always have been, always will be, regardless of the machine they are installed on.

I can tell you from past experience, cut your losses on that bracket lift, remove it, and save yourself the cost of ball joints, cv axles, tie rod ends later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just an FYI, me coming from a racing background. You do realize the Wolverine suspension geometry is SUPPOSED to have approximately 2 inches of droop (aka free sag) to work properly, so you keep saying your springs are shot and I think you are misinterpreting droop as worn springs. this droop, or free sag is the reason why the Wolverine rides excellent to begin with. So removing that free sag is doing nothing but degrading the ride quality. Also, it sounds like that bracket lift is now making your a arm travel limited not by the shock length as it is intended from the manufacturer, but the frame interference at the a arm mounts, or in the ball joint angle. Neither of which is a good thing. Bracket lifts are garbage, always have been, always will be, regardless of the machine they are installed on.

I can tell you from past experience, cut your losses on that bracket lift, remove it, and save yourself the cost of ball joints, cv axles, tie rod ends later.
I certainly appreciate the input. However, my machine has more than 5 inches of droop in a static setting, with no added weight to the machine. A far cry from the 2 inches you mention. I'm not sure if you read all of the thread or not, but it rides great now, almost as good as stock, and I have 4 inches more ground clearance...so I am going to keep my bracket lift. Since I am still well within the normal range of motion in the suspension, it absolutely is not going to cost me ball joints, cv joints, tie rod ends, etc. I understand where you are coming from, but you happen to be mistaken in this case.
 

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I have this kit installed also, but I assumed the steering stops are to keep from turning to tight with the higher lift and putting the axle and joint in to much of a bind to cause it to break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have this kit installed also, but I assumed the steering stops are to keep from turning to tight with the higher lift and putting the axle and joint in to much of a bind to cause it to break.
Yes this is likely their intent, however since the suspension is still operating in the same range of motion that it would when stock, the cv joint will still see the same angles of operation stock vs. with the lift. The only difference would be the frequency at which it will see those same angles. When stock, it will reach those angles less often, as it will only be during articulation of the front end with one wheel on a rock or in a hole for example. If you look at the front end, the angles are anything but extreme. And in the rare event that I do break one, I can always put in a gorilla type which uses a different bearing race design and can achieve tighter angles than stock without damage. Either way, the benefits outweigh the risks for me, and I chose to remove the steering stops.
 

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I certainly appreciate the input. However, my machine has more than 5 inches of droop in a static setting, with no added weight to the machine. A far cry from the 2 inches you mention. I'm not sure if you read all of the thread or not, but it rides great now, almost as good as stock, and I have 4 inches more ground clearance...so I am going to keep my bracket lift. Since I am still well within the normal range of motion in the suspension, it absolutely is not going to cost me ball joints, cv joints, tie rod ends, etc. I understand where you are coming from, but you happen to be mistaken in this case.
5 inches is alot of sag for sure. Its only a matter of time for the aftermarket to provide some upgraded springs.
 

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I have same kit in mine not running the stops because of the zip ties u get with kit " only downfall " I have no rubbing 28" mega Mayhem's 1.5" spacers front and back
 

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Oh yes! I completely forgot to mention that. Yes I took them out and had ZERO rubbing, even though I have 28x10 tires. I was in very tight turns under full compression up front and it still didn't rub, so I can confidently say the steering stops are not needed to prevent tires rubbing. All in all, the kit is definitely the best bang for the buck out there IMO.
Just wanted to mention that I also installed this lift and took FTMs word about the steering stops. I didnt really want to mess with the boots to install them so decided to leave them off and I think its safe to say that hey arent needed. I went with 28-10-12 cst wildthangs on all four corners with no rubbing. These tires havent truly been tested yet but so far I like them mainly cause they are only 26 lbs a piece and do not rob much power. I really like this lift/setup. Install took about 45 min and instructions were clear. One inch wheel spacers on the rear are a must in my opinion. They gave it a better stance with improved stability. The ground clearance is ridiculous. I tripped hoping up in the wolverine the first time after the lift was installed cause I wasnt used to it being so high! As far as ride quality goes it may be a tad stiffer but I contribute most of this to the tires. Thanks to FTM for all of the help and I hope you dont mind me copying you almost to a "T". haha 20160703_160546.jpg 20160703_184312.jpg 20160703_184431.jpg 20160704_123841.jpg 20160706_173433.jpg 20160706_173449.jpg
 

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Does anyone know for sure if this lift will void the warranty. I have this lift installed and have the extended warranty on my machine but I want to take it in for the floor board being cracked again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would not hesitate to bring it in for the floorboard being cracked. They cannot refuse to warranty a part that is unrelated to the item you installed. For example, you install a tuner and exhaust, and you blow a hole in your piston. They say tough cookies, we aren't covering it. That is legit. Now if you install a lift kit, and you blow a hole in your piston, they have to cover it. The systems are unrelated. The factory cannot refuse to warranty their product just because you have installed aftermarket components. They have to find that the aftermarket components actually caused their factory components to fail. You can thank the magnuson moss act for that.
 

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I wouldn't be concerned about the lift kit being on it for the cracked floorboard but I would be concerned about it for possible future warranty items that might be suspension related.

You never know what notes might get put in the file when your unit goes to an authorized Yamaha Dealership. For instance, the repair record could say "cracked floor board unrelated to lift kit installed by owner, cracked floor covered under warranty". Now jump forward a year from now and you have a bad shock, or an axle breaks for no apparent reason, or a ball joint prematurely wears out, or what if the power steering motor goes out and Yamaha tries to say you increased the stresses on it by changing the stock suspension.

The way files/records are stored these days once something is noted in a file it is in the history FOREVER. Just like the internet, once something is said or a picture is posted it is out there for eternity regardless whether or not you take it down from where you posted it.

Take it off before you take it to the dealer, you'll sleep better not worrying if something might not be covered for the rest of the warranty period.
 
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