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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I waited the full 8 weeks in anticipation and went to start the install. Was disappointed in the hardware quality and "assortment" of fasteners. Is this typical of what to expect coming from TGM? My OCD has me going to McMaster to get like bolts the same length and rating. Don't want to risk the ROPS integrity. Anyone have any tips on the install? First problem in the instructions is that the front panels don't have the hole drilled. Did you measure or clamp them up to find the hole location? It says the second hole is measured down from the first which doesn't exist.
Metal Household hardware Tool accessory Cylinder Silver Computer accessory Silver Paper

Thanks in advance for suggestions. Looking forward to using them.
 

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When I asked about Gen1 doors, it was suggested that TGM was the way to go. I can't find any info on ordering, price or availability. What did they cost? Cost of shipping? Do you think they're worth whatever you paid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ordering is sending $790 for black or $860 with graphics to a paypal address. Shipping is included in that price and they come via Russia Post to USPS and take 8 weeks.They are made to order. I don't think they're worth the $860 I paid. Two pieces appear to have been dropped prior to packaging and were sent that way. There was a flaw in the graphics too. I can get past that as they are UTV doors. It is the mismatch hardware and holes missing that bother me. From what I read they were top notch but would seem I got a bad batch. Now I can't get the drivers side door not to rattle. They are supposed to be double latch and even after the second latch it still rattles. I've tried realigning and no success. Passenger side is fine so I think it is a defective latch. Will have to keep tweaking it I guess. Still haven't figured out a good way to get the holes in the front panels.
Composite material Material property Silver Carbon Aluminium White Orange Grey Book Publication
 

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I do not know what the front panels are you reference unless there is a little cosmetic panel in front of the door. I made my own doors and such a panel and am just guessing on what you have. If that is what is giving you the struggle, suggest making a cardboard pattern of the panel and cutting a hole in it at approx location, apply masking tape over the cutout for exact locating of hole and mark with an awl or sharpie. Then transfer the hole to your panel. Drill a smaller pilot hole than the final size so you can shift it some if needed after a trial placement. Use a stiff cardboard like the back of a notepad, not corrugated box packaging, to get a better pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks jimclemjr. Great suggestion making a pattern to transfer to the panels. I have some scrap aluminum thin enough to take the impression of the bolt holes that i can use to punch and drill.

Leaving those for last as still struggling with the driver door. Might get to it this weekend and give it a try.

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You're right on the aluminum, I have a roll of roof valley flashing that is great for that, I just keep forgetting about it. And it cuts so easily with scissors too lol.
 

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I thought I had a defective latch as well. Make sure the end/head of bolt/striker is contacting the rubber piece or it will rattle when latched. The rubber has to be compressed a little to keep from rattling. Also watch sometimes the rubber piece kind of pops back toward the back of machine and will prevent it from contacting the striker bolt, I had to glue the rubber in. They also recommended that the striker bolt could be replaced with a m10 round head allen bolt for more contact area.
90371
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I thought I had a defective latch as well. Make sure the end/head of bolt/striker is contacting the rubber piece or it will rattle when latched. The rubber has to be compressed a little to keep from rattling. Also watch sometimes the rubber piece kind of pops back toward the back of machine and will prevent it from contacting the striker bolt, I had to glue the rubber in. They also recommended that the striker bolt could be replaced with a m10 round head allen bolt for more contact area. View attachment 90371
Thanks for the tip! I'll need to inspect closer with better lighting. Passenger went together no problem and I've struggled with the driver side to no end. Hours spent trying to adjust it until I get frustrated and have to walk away again. Did you have to dissassemble the latch system to glue the rubber bumper in place? Did you use rubber cement or RTV or what?
 

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No disassembly, the top of rubber is attached or sandwiched, the bottom will pull back. I tried gorilla glue, didn't work too good, then I tried a silicone and worked a little better
 
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