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It is gaining popularity on the Grizzlies on other forums. Claiming it reduces exhaust temps (obviously as its designed to cause burn off of exhaust gasses in muffler) as well as stops decel popping. Just curious if anyone has done it. If not I'll be doing it this weekend and reporting back
 

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I have not heard anyone on this forum doing it yet, but guys have been doing it to street bikes for years, I know that much. I think I remember Tinken talking about it on here at some point, don't remember exactly what the context was. Maybe he will chime in.
 

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I've blocked the ones on my YXZ with the Graves block off plates. Haven't done it on the Wolverine though.
 

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There is a little more info in the Wolverine Exhaust Tips in Stock!!! thread (I do not know how to make a direct link to the thread, sorry).
 

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I am definitely experiencing the popping on decel immediately after coming off the throttle. Since I do not have a PCV for the wolverine, I am likely going to block off the AIS...I suppose we shall see what happens.

EDIT:I looked at the service manual a bit...it appears as though the air cut-off valve is a NC valve, so unplugging the wiring connector should leave it in a closed state.I will try this for a test and see what happens.
 

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I am definitely experiencing the popping on decel immediately after coming off the throttle. Since I do not have a PCV for the wolverine, I am likely going to block off the AIS...I suppose we shall see what happens.

EDIT:I looked at the service manual a bit...it appears as though the air cut-off valve is a NC valve, so unplugging the wiring connector should leave it in a closed state.I will try this for a test and see what happens.
Let us know how it goes when disconnected, you may have a bunch of us joining you.
 

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Well I have decided I am not going to just unplug the connector, I am going to use a clamp on the rubber hose feeding the reed valve at one of these two points(red arrows), whichever is easiest to get to. This way, it will have the same effect, without the risk of contaminating the electrical connector with mud/water/debris, and possibly causing harm to the ECU's drive circuit for the solenoid.

Wolv AIS Flow Pic.PNG

I will use one of these clamps...

Fluid Clamp Set.jpg

Here are other snips from the service manual...

Wolv AIS Parts.PNG
Wolv Reed Valve.PNG
Wolv AIS Checking-Operation.PNG
 

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Big. Fat. Success.

Well it worked. I used my hose clamp to block the line and ran it for about 15 minutes up and down the road trying everything I could to get it to backfire, but it would not. I may do a more permanent solution down the road, but for now, I will just loctite the threads on this clamp and call it good.

AIS Clamp.jpg
 

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So you just pinched the one line off and left the electrical connector and everything else in place? Keep us updated, but like I said many of us may be following your lead on this easy trick. Thank you sir!
 

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So you just pinched the one line off and left the electrical connector and everything else in place? Keep us updated, but like I said many of us may be following your lead on this easy trick. Thank you sir!
Yep! I just clamped the hose closest to the airbox, because it was the easiest to get to. I am taking it out on the trails again this weekend hopefully, so I will report back with results. I don't expect them to be any different, but time will tell.
 

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You know you could just stick a rubber plug in the hole in the air box.
I'm not sure what exactly you are referring to here?


Use large ball bearing to plug the hose, you can't see it from the outside and it's not permanent. Won't make it run any different.
Yes this would certainly offer a good permanent solution that is not visible from the outside. I only used the clamp because it was fast, easy, and free. It literally takes 30 seconds to put it on, and since I was just "testing" it out, I didn't want to get fancy yet LOL.
 

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Pull the hose off and plug the hole in the air box and stick the hose back on.

Like Tinken suggested I used the ball bearing fix on my old Kawasaki Motorcycle.
 

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Pull the hose off and plug the hole in the air box and stick the hose back on.

Like Tinken suggested I used the ball bearing fix on my old Kawasaki Motorcycle.
Gotcha. Think I may just stick a bolt in there so I don't have to buy anything LOL. I have plenty of bolts and clamps, no ball bearings lol.
 

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It's not going to make the engine run any different. The only time you would want to pinch it off is when you were checking your a/f ratio. Technically it does help keep the head a little cooler, not sure if that matters or not.

That air filter is crazy. Reminds me of my old 660 air cleaner. I think Yamaha could of done a better job with that. I bet it's a hp robber. Sooner or later someone will have to address that.
 

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It's not going to make the engine run any different. The only time you would want to pinch it off is when you were checking your a/f ratio. Technically it does help keep the head a little cooler, not sure if that matters or not.

That air filter is crazy. Reminds me of my old 660 air cleaner. I think Yamaha could of done a better job with that. I bet it's a hp robber. Sooner or later someone will have to address that.
Did you miss the post where I confirmed it removed the backfire LOL!? It definitely worked, no doubt about it. It may not work for a stock bike, I have an HMF(dobeck) fuel controller and exhaust so obviously it won't be apples to apples with a stock machine, but it worked on mine for sure! I am riding again tomorrow so I will report back how it does on the trails, but I don't expect it to backfire there either lol.
 

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Did you miss the post where I confirmed it removed the backfire LOL!? It definitely worked, no doubt about it. It may not work for a stock bike, I have an HMF(dobeck) fuel controller and exhaust so obviously it won't be apples to apples with a stock machine, but it worked on mine for sure! I am riding again tomorrow so I will report back how it does on the trails, but I don't expect it to backfire there either lol.
Did blocking the AIS lower the exhaust temps? Do you have an infrared temp gun to provide a before temp and after temp?
 
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