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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pretty easy so this may be redundant but figured you need to drill and removing old links can be stubborn.

Ratchet & wrenches - 13, 14, 16, 17, 19mm
1/2“ Drill bit
5mm Allen key

Started with the rear, remove old links with 2x 17mm. Good chance loosening the bolt spins the threads, grab another 17mm wrench and use the slots between washer and bushing.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Tire Coil spring

Admire new links compared to old (slightly shorter & seem stiffer)

Auto part Metal Nickel Cylinder Circle

Jack up vehicle, remove tires - this was needed for my drill to fit, some may not need to do so.

Use 1/2“ bit to widen lower attachment point on control arm-

Automotive tire Coil spring Bicycle part Gas Auto part

Cover area and dab exposed metal with paint

Automotive tire Bicycle part Bumper Gas Automotive exterior

Install New hardware with 16mm & 19mm

Bicycle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle tire Bicycle frame

Reisntall tires and lower vehicle. New links can be attached when both sides are level, can easily rock vehicle if not quite lined up or pull on roll cage to shift weight.

Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Tread

the front is pretty straight forward. Remove factory links with 17mm. If the threads spin use 5mm in thread ends to start removing nut. Once you get enough room or if you want to avoid strip the Allen key it may be easier using a 14mm as pictured below

Plumbing fixture Household hardware Tap Bicycle part Plumbing

Install new hardware with 13mm & 14mm

Crankset Vehicle brake Automotive tire Wheel Automotive lighting

Install links and enjoy!

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Automotive exhaust

I’ve found when installed they seem stiffer and induce less body roll on turn in, this translates to breaking traction faster when rallying so pretty fun. Once removed its Excellent on the trail. Each side it working independently and do a better job soaking up bumps and whoops. Much less teeter tottering crossing obstacles and climbing/crawling. The front being removed is noticeable above 30 or so but left the rear off and still pretty stable. If you don’t goof off on dirt roads much and only trail ride id only go for the quick disconnect in the front and run no rear at all.
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