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Service Manual for my X2.
Valve Inspection 3K miles.

View attachment 95557

The Rmax is practically the same engine, so I'd say 3K miles also.
I'm slightly over 3K miles, so I'll be getting into the valves soon.
Glancing at the Service Manual, it appears that we have similar design to Tappets that are in some cars. Most of this type of design are interference engines, so I'm now wondering if are motors are of this interference type?
My Honda truck valve adjustment is just like my buddies Honda ATV. Wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge, it's that easy.
My wife's car has tappets, which is a interference engine and requires several mic/feeler readings then replacing the correct tappet to meet spec.

Now you guys got me curious, so I'll have to do more digging....lol.
The Rmax is 3200 I think someone posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Did the oil change last night. It took roughly an hour and that was just taking my time since it's the first time doing it. No big deal until I came to removing the oil filter. She's on tight! I couldn't get it off so I'll grab an oil filter wrench today and complete that job tonight along with trans and diff fluids.

I have 350 miles on it, not sure on hours but knew I was a bit over for the first one. The oil looked good, no metallic shavings or anything worrisome to note.
 

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If Yamaha didn't change the sensor location, be careful not to hit it.
Not sure what type of wrench you plan on using, but just look out for the sensor by the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
If Yamaha didn't change the sensor location, be careful not to hit it.
Not sure what type of wrench you plan on using, but just look out for the sensor by the filter.
Thanks for the heads up on the sensor. I did see it last night has I was trying to get the oil filter off by hand. Here is what I bought today.
 

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Got my 20 hour service done on Monday, they only charged $91.74, I have not picked it up yet but that was the total they gave me as I had to send them a check so someone else could pick it up. I have a feeling my dealer does not know what that service all entails????
 

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So I've watched videos on the first service here and think I can manage but thought I'd check to see what dealers were charging. The closest yamaha dealer to me quoted me at 300.00 for the first service but said he's never had an Rmax in and is basing that off wolverines he's done. Then I call the dealer who I bought it from that's over an hour drive and really is a bad set up trying to get off the freeway and through congested traffic hauling a trailer. It's a pain but whatever. This guy so oh boy that's a big service... goes through the list of the fluids, valve adjustment, retorquing things. His sales game is on high. He comes back at 900.00 not including any fluid or filters and says it's a 7 hour service. WTF? I know he's scamming but damn. I really just want something noted on my service record about the front passenger clicking noise.

So I'm stuck between someone whose never done a service on the Rmax and someone scamming. Guess I'll get my hands dirty.
For my 2021 RMA4 I purchased the facyory service pkg, $699 covers factory service interval @ 20, 80, 160 and 320 hrs of use. In my mind that is one heck of a deal. You might check and see if you can still opt for that program. Per yamaha maint schedule first service would have cost 891, second 324, 3rd one 1073, fourth one 1194.
For 699 its piece of mind.
So I've watched videos on the first service here and think I can manage but thought I'd check to see what dealers were charging. The closest yamaha dealer to me quoted me at 300.00 for the first service but said he's never had an Rmax in and is basing that off wolverines he's done. Then I call the dealer who I bought it from that's over an hour drive and really is a bad set up trying to get off the freeway and through congested traffic hauling a trailer. It's a pain but whatever. This guy so oh boy that's a big service... goes through the list of the fluids, valve adjustment, retorquing things. His sales game is on high. He comes back at 900.00 not including any fluid or filters and says it's a 7 hour service. WTF? I know he's scamming but damn. I really just want something noted on my service record about the front passenger clicking noise.

So I'm stuck between someone whose never done a service on the Rmax and someone scamming. Guess I'll get my hands dirty.
Quote:”Guess I'll get my hands dirty.”
Smart man.
I opted for factory maint program, cost was $699 cover 20, 80, 160 and 320 intervals.
1st service @ 20hr would have cost $891, 2nd @80hr $324, 3rd @ 160hr $1073 and 4th @320hr $1194. Numbers sure add up in my favor.
 

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Got my 20 hour service done on Monday, they only charged $91.74, I have not picked it up yet but that was the total they gave me as I had to send them a check so someone else could pick it up. I have a feeling my dealer does not know what that service all entails????
Well check their invoice on what they've done. Should itemize some of the stuff. Right
Let us know but a steel even if the did all the fuilds, filters etc.
 

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I changed the oil at 5 hr to break in oil, then at 10 hr to Dino.Then at 30 hr to Motul 300v I highly recommend the Motul it smells great.
 

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If there's enough room, there's always the screwdriver through the filter method. It's worked for me in the past.
 

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I changed the oil at 5 hr to break in oil, then at 10 hr to Dino.Then at 30 hr to Motul 300v I highly recommend the Motul it smells great.
I guess you splash some Motul on your Fries...
Thats a new benchmark on selecting oil. How It Smells!!!
Oh is that when its coming out the exhaust??
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
If there's enough room, there's always the screwdriver through the filter method. It's worked for me in the past.
I've never heard of the screwdriver method. Elaborate if you could because even with the oil filter socket I couldn't get it off. Actually when I bought it the sales guy said he doesn't like that style because the socket doesn't bite very well on to the oil filter and that's what I found.

I changed the transmission and front and rear diff's last night. Transmission was supper easy and the diffs took a while because they're just in really tight spots. I did over fill the front diff so as I pulled the hand pump tube out all the excess gear oil came puking out as well. Just messy. I'll have to pull front brush guard because the cover that goes underneath the front end has of gear oil all over it now, well whatever didn't leak out on to my concrete. I was very deliberate and slow on the rear and didn't make a mess.
 

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Touche...
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
If there's enough room, there's always the screwdriver through the filter method. It's worked for me in the past.
Ok, Lol. I'll keep that one in the back pocket. I also saw where using duct tape with the sticky side up to get more bite or wrapping the the filter with a piece of sand paper to create more bite as well.

This filter being applied by the factory I would think they would know not to over tighten it but who knows.
 

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I've never heard of the screwdriver method.
Its were or when you scewer the filter right through with your favorite screw driver. I was in a delema a year or more ago and refrained from it even though it took me two days to get the filter off the engine. Once scewered you cannot drive or run the engine. There is little swing room and I didn't have faith in it working anyway as well as other tools I might try would not longer work either. Oil covered shredded can and all.

I'd say not to that method on any of these machines.
 

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I used one of these after going through every other type I had and bought. I believe I slipped piece of rubber or metal bolt under for added compression and bite!!! NOTHING ELSE WORKED.

 
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