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I'm working crazy hours and very busy so I didn't have time to read the entire thread....

Did anyone mention the splines on the shaft? They look shot to me and even with new parts, it doesn't appear to have enough tooth engagement.
Second, where did you get those funky looking sliders and is that a install tool to aid with install of them?

Sorry for not haveing the time to read the thread, I'll dig deeper into it today. Sorry to hear about your issues Paul, chat soon buddy.
 
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I got my parts but then we lost a family member and then I had to go to Michigan for work for two weeks. Now that I'm back there's a wedding plus its so frigggin' hot. I'll get back on this soon, the grandson won't let me forget!
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Allright, it's all back together and it drives great. I've run the Hunterworks machined primary sheave "greaseless" for two years and always had the belt bark. This time I followed the Weller Racing instructions. I used a small amount of Tink Seal as I believe it just all slings to the outside due to centrifugal force. I put the dust shield on after taking these pictures. I'll let you know if the belt bark comes back.

New rear CVT case with new gaskets
New fixed primary sheave
New Hunterworks machined moveable primary sheave
New cam plate sliders
Secondary completely serviced with everything new
New belt
Primary cage bearing cleaned and repacked with mix of Mobile 1 red synthetic and Tink Seal
3874 miles, 537 hours

Wheel Automotive tire White Light Product


I cleaned everything up with Q-tips.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber


Automotive tire Bicycle part Crankset Steering part Rim
 
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Personally, I don’t think you have enough grease to create a solid seal around the cam plate once it’s all slung to to the outside but, I’ve never tried that little so by all means do report back.
Im not promoting too much but I would definitely err on the side of more for sure!

Also more grease means it can last longer, do the job better through out the cycle. That little amount will become contaminated sooner by the dust.
 

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Personally, I don’t think you have enough grease to create a solid seal around the cam plate once it’s all slung to to the outside but, I’ve never tried that little so by all means do report back.
Im not promoting too much but I would definitely err on the side of more for sure!
I agree. If your goal is to use TS as a lube then fine, but if your goal is to block dust, you don't have nearly enough.
 

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My personal opinion is that it isn’t a lube issue at all.
Regarding my Rmax experience, I was getting barks and chirps early on. I forget exactly, but roughly 500 miles in, when I tore it down and added grease, the cam plate still slid up and down slick as snot and white powder was still present in the roller channels and on the side of the weights. I don’t believe anything was sticking at all. The products were doing thier job.
I just think the dust gets under the weights in the tract. As it builds up, at some point, the weight can’t roll freely back to center, preventing a smooth backshift and lowest ratio upon stopping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I’m willing to be the Guinea pig. The Weller instructions say to not use too much. And at one point Timken stated it all slings to the outside. So this was my decision and I’ll report back. 🙂
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I’m willing to be the Guinea pig. The Weller instructions say to not use too much. And at one point Timken stated it all slings to the outside. So this was my decision and I’ll report back. 🙂
It definitely goes outside from centrifugal force but the question is, is there enough to fill in all the air space around the outer edge of the cam plate when that happens. Only way to know, is to remove the cover after running it and see if there is a solid bead all the way around.

It can handle a lot more grease without being a problem so I will always err on the side of more to ensure a good seal and so the grease last longer due to contamination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I hear what you're saying and it makes sense. However, take a look at the Weller instructions. I might have a little less than they do, but it looks really close. Anyway I'll leave it alone and see if I get belt bark. If I do I'll pull the CVT cover and the primary support cage, then remove the dust shield and see what it looks like on top of the cam plate.

Automotive tire Wheel Rim Alloy wheel Hubcap


Watch Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Bicycle part
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
This work was done in late June at 3874 miles, 537 hours. It's now at 4068 miles, 565 hours.
That's 194 miles in 28 hours for an average speed of 7 mph. Yep, that's my normal very slow pace on local trails and along pasture fences. This is during the hottest weather of the year, all conditions where belt bark is most likely to occur.

I've not had any belt bark. I know what do to look for belt bark: go very fast so the clutch cycles fully to high and then come to an abrupt stop. Stop as fast as you can with the brakes, as engine braking through the clutch helps it to cycle back to the lowest ratio for take off. I have "tested" this way for belt bark multiple times and it has not happened.

Before I was always greaseless - beginning at 1620 miles and ending at 3874, which is 2254 miles. Constant belt bark every few hundred miles until I took the cover off and blew it out, or just lived with it. What's different now is I tried the "Weller way". This is described above and uses the factory dust cover with a very small amount of Tink Seal in the primary roller channels.

I think more miles are needed, I'll continue to keep you posted.
 
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