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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody have this 2R Racing billet tip and can tell me how much louder is it from the stock tip ?
My stock tip is all rusty and I'm looking for an aluminium replacement.

Thanks :cool:
 

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If this engine acts like a typical Yamaha ATV engine, a 2R tip will make your engine run even leaner (hotter) and you'll experience more backfiring. Most go back with their stock spark arrestor or add a fuel controller.
 

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I tried a billet tip on mine and had to take it off as I was having stalling issues and it was a lot noisier,as morsno mentioned you need to run a fuel controller with the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your replies , My question how loud will it be with the 2R billet tip ? is it gonna be as loud as if I had taken off the stock tip ?
 

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Without anything it's pretty dang loud.. I think the 2r tip may bring it down to a tolerable level but it's still pretty loud. Been running a 2r tip now for awhile.. around the house I'll throw the stock back in to cruise around. At the Off Road park, I let her rip :D LOL
 

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First off do not replace the OEM spark arrestor with an open exhaust tip sold by anyone. This will decrease the velocity for the exhaust system to help suck out the exhaust gasses. If you are mechanically inclined do this: Remove the spark arrestor. You will see a screen surrounding the arrestor. Use a dremel with cut off disc to cut out the screen on all 3 sides. Then you will see that the gasses must make 2 complete 180 degree turns in order to escape the muffler. This is the choke point in the exhaust. The chambers must be cut out leaving only the tailpipe exposed in the arrestor. This will reduce the back-pressure and still retain the velocity needed to help the gasses out. You must keep the OEM 1" tailpipe or else you loose velocity, invite hard starting and/or stalling and gain a lot of noise. Total cost if you have a dremel type tool is 2 hours max labor and zero $ cost. The sound is no louder than stock but bottom end grunt is improved. The OEM ECU will compensate for the change.
 

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First off do not replace the OEM spark arrestor with an open exhaust tip sold by anyone. This will decrease the velocity for the exhaust system to help suck out the exhaust gasses. If you are mechanically inclined do this: Remove the spark arrestor. You will see a screen surrounding the arrestor. Use a dremel with cut off disc to cut out the screen on all 3 sides. Then you will see that the gasses must make 2 complete 180 degree turns in order to escape the muffler. This is the choke point in the exhaust. The chambers must be cut out leaving only the tailpipe exposed in the arrestor. This will reduce the back-pressure and still retain the velocity needed to help the gasses out. You must keep the OEM 1" tailpipe or else you loose velocity, invite hard starting and/or stalling and gain a lot of noise. Total cost if you have a dremel type tool is 2 hours max labor and zero $ cost. The sound is no louder than stock but bottom end grunt is improved. The OEM ECU will compensate for the change.
Can you please explain how the OEM ECU will compensate for the change?
 

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First off do not replace the OEM spark arrestor with an open exhaust tip sold by anyone. This will decrease the velocity for the exhaust system to help suck out the exhaust gasses. If you are mechanically inclined do this: Remove the spark arrestor. You will see a screen surrounding the arrestor. Use a dremel with cut off disc to cut out the screen on all 3 sides. Then you will see that the gasses must make 2 complete 180 degree turns in order to escape the muffler. This is the choke point in the exhaust. The chambers must be cut out leaving only the tailpipe exposed in the arrestor. This will reduce the back-pressure and still retain the velocity needed to help the gasses out. You must keep the OEM 1" tailpipe or else you loose velocity, invite hard starting and/or stalling and gain a lot of noise. Total cost if you have a dremel type tool is 2 hours max labor and zero $ cost. The sound is no louder than stock but bottom end grunt is improved. The OEM ECU will compensate for the change.
Watchman- do you have pics?
 

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First off do not replace the OEM spark arrestor with an open exhaust tip sold by anyone. This will decrease the velocity for the exhaust system to help suck out the exhaust gasses. If you are mechanically inclined do this: Remove the spark arrestor. You will see a screen surrounding the arrestor. Use a dremel with cut off disc to cut out the screen on all 3 sides. Then you will see that the gasses must make 2 complete 180 degree turns in order to escape the muffler. This is the choke point in the exhaust. The chambers must be cut out leaving only the tailpipe exposed in the arrestor. This will reduce the back-pressure and still retain the velocity needed to help the gasses out. You must keep the OEM 1" tailpipe or else you loose velocity, invite hard starting and/or stalling and gain a lot of noise. Total cost if you have a dremel type tool is 2 hours max labor and zero $ cost. The sound is no louder than stock but bottom end grunt is improved. The OEM ECU will compensate for the change.
Addendum to procedure: If you don't have a dremel type tool, you can just drill maybe 18 1/4" holes all around the first pipe then continue through into the tailpipe extension. This will get you maybe 75% of the effectiveness as cutting out the pipes.
And do NOT remove the acoustic plate at the end of the arrester, it sends the exhaust pulses back to the acoustic plate in the muffler thereby cancelling the noise as in the stock setup.. It is no louder than stock with much less back pressure, and a gain in bottom end torque.
 

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Tinken: Show me on a dyno that it doesn't work. If you reduce back pressure and maintain the same exhaust gas velocity you gain low end torque.
Oversized and overpriced pretty looking tips reduce low end grunt. Do a web search like I did, the info is there to use.
 

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No pics. Take the arrestor out and study it. If you can't figure out how it works then leave it alone. These engines were designed for low rpm rock climbing, bog low torque, not top end.That's why the 1" tailpipe is perfect to maintain exhaust velocity.. Haven't you noticed how accell slows rapidly say over 35-40 mph?
Now you have spent over $200-300 for what is free-if you just think.
 

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I would bet that most any vehicle manufactured in the last 10-20 years have fuel maps designed to compensate for various demands placed on the engines, like altitude, air pressure, etc.
They can compensate for altitude and temp but it does not know you put a tip on it or any other mod and can't compensate for it hence the need for a fuel controller like the Power Commander

Besides the stock mapping is way too lean anyway and we really need the power commander anyway tip or no tip

Todd
 

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Watchman-

You need to slow up here. You just jumped into a forum with a wealth of knowledge and educated people who have already been with this machine. The specific reason I asked you to explain how a stock ECM would compensate for a change to the exhaust, is because it CAN'T. The stock ECU does not have a closed loop feedback with an O2 sensor to tell it if the A/F ratio has changed. You may want to do some more "internet searching" and educate yourself about the function of these systems, instead of making assumptions and then proclaiming to all of us that we are fools.

OR, you can change your tone, and be welcomed here and learn from those of us who have done it before. Nobody here expects anybody to know everything, but we try to limit inaccurate information being spread as much as possible. We want everyone here to feel comfortable and not feel like they are being harassed or attacked.
 

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Watchman-

You need to slow up here. You just jumped into a forum with a wealth of knowledge and educated people who have already been with this machine. The specific reason I asked you to explain how a stock ECM would compensate for a change tot he exhaust, is because it CAN'T. The stock ECU does not have a closed loop feedback with an O2 sensor to tell it if the A/F ratio has changed. You may want to do some more "internet searching" and educate yourself about the function of these systems, instead of making assumptions and then proclaiming to all of us that we are fools.

OR, you can change your tone, and be welcomed here and learn from those of us who have done it before. Nobody here expects anybody to know everything, but we try to limit inaccurate information being spread as much as possible. We want everyone here to feel comfortable and not feel like they are being harassed or attacked.
Todd, who is a salesman for aftermarket exhaust tips and the Power Commander is on this forum to make money. I thought sales on forums are restricted.

FTM probably bought these products and is defending his position. Change YOUR tone and explain if my suggestion is valid or not.

Having hijacked my original suggestion that a guy with a modicum of mechanical skills can reduce backpressure and increase low end torque where it's needed on the R-SPEC by altering the OEM arrestor instead of spending $300 on unnecessary products is a fun way to learn mechanics. Tailpipes larger than 1" on the 708 will decrease performance. There are other tweeks that can be made, at little cost, such as how to prevent crankcase fumes from polluting the intake charge or disabling the AIS without dorking up the ECU to reduce muffler heat. It's the combination of small adjustments overall that makes a great R-SPEC greater.

Nuff said.
 

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FTM- you said that in a much nicer way then I had typed up yesterday after the ignorant response I received. Not worth my time tho so I deleted it lol
 
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