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Have any of you installed a silicone oil pan heater on your machine to make cold winter starts easier on the machine? I had one on my Grizzly, but have not yet looked for a place to install one on the Wolverine. I think I will install one to pre-heat the oil for plowing season.
 

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Use a good synthetic oil as I do. T6 5W40 and it starts the same as summer.
 
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Use a good synthetic oil as I do. T6 5W40 and it starts the same as summer.
Same here on the synthetic oil. I use Amsoil 0w-40 or 10w-40 ATV/UTV synthetics and it always fires right up.
 

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I have standardize all my equipment on Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W40. 0W isn't needed as the flow doesn't change at all until is so cold. YOU should never be out either. All year round in my ATV & Wolverine. Also Lawn tractor and push lawn mower. Its around $50 or less on sale around here for a 5L Jug.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. I use Rotella T6 5W40. It's a good idea and even necessary to pre-heat the oil when temps dip well below zero.
 
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It would have to be at least -30C to be any benefit. I can start down to the -20C's, but don't get down to -30C here, yet!! If anything its the battery going to suffer the most and not synthetic oil. Most of the starting resistance in any engine is the oil in the pistons and other lubing areas thickened by cold holding them from moving. Not whats in the oil pan. A block heater warming the coolant is the true winter solutions since the crucial parts than need to move are much warmer.
 

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Well boys you need to think about whether you have a dry or wet sump system and the bearing types. Although the Gen 1 had mostly ball and roller bearings there is a few floating bearings and it is a wet sump. So imho either heater will help on them. My concern would not be so much the starting power but moving the molasses into the bearing passages of the floating bearings. And since this is a X forum then you should also consider the dry sump and you have traditional major floating bearings and the fact that the molasses is in the dry sump reservoir can feeding the pump. I think if I had one of them, if I was not running a synthetic winter grade oil and even if I was, I would be thinking about heat taping and insulating the can. Some engineering has said that the most wear comes from dry bearings on start-up when the crank and rods are not floating. Something to think about. Anyhing in the Owner's manual?
 

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I put a oil pan heating pad on the oil tank to just preheat the oil for 5 or 10 minutes before cold weather starts. Doesn't take long and gets the oil nice and toasty. I also run a 5w40 full synthetic oil.
 
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