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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've given my thoughts\experiences on this on multiple occasions and instead of responding to all those individual threads I feel the issue deserves its own thread.

Let me first start off by saying that this isn't a Hunterworks-approved thread. Despite attempts by James\Timmy from JBS trying to spread misinformation, Todd and I are indeed two distinct and separate human beings. I don't own any part of Hunterworks, don't have a vested interested it, and my only compensation is that I get his sheave setup for free along with the Gear\Tranny\Engine Butter treatments along with Tinkseal (well the latter is free from Michael who's responsible for making these products) in return for testing. The only other benefit I get is peace of mind that I'm supporting an individual with the highest morals and standards. If Hunterworks were to stop supporting Yamaha products, you would not see me jump ship to JBS, simply because it is the most unethical and unprofessional business I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with. I would beg Weller Racing or any other aftermarket business to jump in the game instead.

Likewise, Michael and I are also two separate distinct individuals despite false accusations, once-again, by JBS spreading lies that we are one and the same. Some of you have actually met me, know where I live, or know Todd, knows where he lives, and maybe have met him. I have a VERY PUBLIC FB profile due to my previous drone racing business and even the most unskilled investigators can verify this. With all this being said, Todd, Michael, and I have different opinions on certain things, and you won't see the sickening love fest and parroting that James\Timmy have because Timmy's knowledge of things is severely lacking, so he simply regurgitates what James feeds him because he doesn't know any better.

I paid full retail for my X4 and as you can see from my mileage posts, I have a vested interest in making it last as long as possible. Todd or Michael aren't buying me a new engine, or new X4 if their products fail me, so if I didn't believe their products were in my best interest, I wouldn't be using them.

Greased vs greaseless. Why run grease in the primary sheave? Suzuki, Arctic Cat, and many snowmobile CVTs using the same roller\cam plate design don't use grease, nor do the scooters\mopeds that also use this same basic CVT design. They don't use special coatings or even heat-treated rollers, so if you're going to make that argument that it's used for lubrication, please explain why all these other common CVT setups don't use it.

This is my buddy's Arctic Cat 400 four wheeler that I serviced the CVT on a few months back. No grease cover and thus no grease.





When I serviced this sheave I essentially just had to blow out the dust inside of it. Not large-grained dirt, dust. When I had my Rhino, Viking, and now my X4, the experience has been the same. I've never seen anything BUT very fine dust in my primary sliding sheave. NEVER any large-grained dirt.

Why doesn't Yamaha use an air filter on their CVT? Can Am does, Polaris does, why not Yamaha? I think we can dispel the notion that dirt attacks the sheave surfaces or belt. Unless you are a u boat commander, your sheave surfaces should look very good and in previous generations last the life of the vehicle. Those slipper clutch systems have a lot of metal-on-metal contact which dirt could accelerate wear and they need to be blown out periodically. All the metal-on-metal contact points in a Yamaha CVT are protected by grease seals and lubricated by grease...........with the exception of the primary sheave, which is open to the air.........why is that?

If you look at the design on the Yamaha CVT, it hasn't changed a whole lot, only changed in dimension and size of the components. Same goes for the cooling. You have a single cooling intake duct that Y's off, one side going to the back of the non sliding primary sheave and the other half cooling the non sliding secondary sheave (side opposite the spring). You have cooling fins on each of the non-sliding halves of each sheave which moves a decent amount of air. Each side of the belt is getting cooling from the opposing sheaves. As we all know, heat kills belts.

Notice the front quadrant of the bearing support cage is shielded. I don't think this is for structural purposes



I think this is done purposely to help block air from getting inside the primary sheave. The grease inside a stock primary displaces air getting inside of it and it will generally last a thousands miles before it become contaminated enough to change it out. The fact that only fine dust accumulates in there shows the fact that the CVT air flow does a good job of keeping air and consequently dirt away from that area.

Primary cam plate sticking and not moving smoothly. There are two issues that can cause this. One is fixed and shouldn't be a problem on any gen with Hunterworks. It was discovered that there were OEM machining\casting inconsistencies on the cam plate towers that would cause binding of the cam plate and poor sheave performance. Owners would see this in stock setups. HW machined the towers on Gen 1 sheaves and discovered Yamaha didn't learn from its mistakes and the X2/X4 sheave also had these issues so all sheaves now get the towers milled. The second issue, which is the whole point of this thread is dust getting into the primary and causing the rollers and/or cam plate to bind up.

With Gen 1 vehicles, you could go a decent amount of time before having to blow out your primary, in my case between 1500-2000 miles. If you're a follower and not leading the pack, your primary may get filled with dust more quickly and you would have to blow it out more often. Todd NEVER advertised that going greaseless was maintenance free and your primary would have to be blown out at regular intervals. Blowing out your primary with it on the vehicle is much easier than removing your sheave to regrease it. Let's not forget the main advantage to going greaseless is that if you're not snorkeled, and swamp your CVT playing U-boat commander, you can simply wash out the mud, spin dry, and keep going vs using grease where the rest of your riding day is ruined.

So why are we seeing SOME complaints with SOME X2\X4 owners having issues within 100 miles and needing to clean their primary out vs being able to go 1000 miles like on previous generations?

Let's first address Gen 1 vs X2/X4 clutching issues\differences between each bone stock:

Gen 1 Wolverine weighs roughly 1311 lbs
2020 Wolverine X4 XTR weighs 1739 lbs

An X2/X4 makes 50% more torque than a Gen 1

The secondary spring of an Gen 1 vs X2/X4 (the larger spring at the top is the X2/X4's)



So, we have 400 lbs more weight, at least 50% more HP if you haven't done any mods, and a secondary spring that produces way more pressure. We may also have 4 passengers with the X4 instead of 2 and we're running larger tires to boot.

We are still using the same primary rollers and same secondary cup design (pins and thickness of the metal used, not actual diameter). Guess what's failing? Guess what I experienced failing VERY EARLY ON in my 10K mile journey? Flat spotted OEM rollers IN OEM GREASE ON IN A STOCK CVT. Gouged secondary spring cup. While I was the only one to experience these issues at 3K miles, we are now seeing that these problems are no longer unique to me and MANY others are seeing the same issues: flat spotted rollers IN OEM GREASE IN BONE STOCK SHEAVE SETUPS and destroyed secondary spring cups (resulting in expensive destroyed secondary sheaves if not caught early).

SO the picture I'm trying to paint for you here is that these reused parts from the Gen 1 haven't been beefed up and are failing because of the added stress, NAMELY pressure. The reason why we're seeing flat-spotted rollers in the X2/X4 where we didn't see it in Gen 1' is because the pressure these rollers are under from the AT LEAST 400 lbs of extra weight, 50% more HP, MASSIVE OVERKILL secondary spring are all taking their toll. No discrimination here. You're going to see it on OEM weights, HV weights, and OD weights. No weight on the market today is going to be immune, just one may will wear out faster than the other.

So what's this have to do with dust? Well since there's A TON more pressure exerting on those rollers, it's compacting that dust so it sticks. In Gen 1, with the lower pressure, the rollers slid through it more easily. Since it wasn't being compacted, more dust wouldn't affect performance until you got a lot in there and it had no where to go\displace so it would get compacted and had to be blown out eventually.

Roller side loading. While the previous forces affect this, acceleration greatly affects this. What I'm talking about is the roller being pressed against one side of the roller channel under acceleration. With the X2/X4, HV AND OD weights have a disadvantage here compared to OEM weights which are hollow. HV and OD weights have more surface area and thus more friction side loading (greased or greaseless). With dust trapped between the roller side and channel wall you'll get that dust compacting under heavy acceleration. If you ease on the throttle vs slamming it, I'm betting the rollers will slide out easier when there's too much dust.

So what are some solutions\recommendations\trends?

-Don't ASSUME that some of the guys who do have issues within 100 miles are going to be indicative of everyone. I typically go 500 miles before I have to blow my sheave out
-If you don't do any high speed riding, you may accumulate dust much quicker. I get at least 10 good miles of 30-45 MPH on the highway driving both to and from the trailhead, so my sheave gets high air flow to help blow out the fine dust.
-GET THE AIR BLOWOUT PORT. Tell Todd you would like him to carry it. If 90% of his Yamaha customers request it, maybe he'll start carrying it vs having to order it separately. It makes cleaning out your primary painless. I'm going to relocate my hose to the front of the vehicle like InfidelMT did so I can blow it out while in the driver's seat. This should be the easiest solution for most users as it literally only takes minutes to do. For those of you complaining you see the problem within 100 miles, carry a portable air compressor or I'm even looking at getting a 1-2 gallon air tank.
-Run grease if you have to.

If we can get regular air flow to the primary, it could eliminate having to blow it out altogether:

-Modify the bearing support cage and remove that front section, between the frame blocking air from getting to the primary and maybe add an air re-director to force air coming of the secondary fins to the primary cavity. Yamaha did design the CVT to route air away from that area, we need to redesign it to get air to that area so fine dust doesn't have a chance to settle and accumulate there.
-Add some means of getting air there via taking the stock grease cover and stamping it so fins are created. Same thing could be done to he cam plate although it's thicker and would be harder to modify.
-Modify the CVT cover and air ducting so air is directed to the secondary via a T in the air duct feeding the secondary sheave

Dilligaf wanted to put a frog-skin type of filter on the CVT intake duct. I'm a little leary of this due to reduced cooing but it's an option to consider.
 

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So glad you did this, MO. It certainly deserves its own thread.

Here's a link to cross back to where some other discussions are. Belt slipping, belt "barking": Drive belt question - Page 2, scoll down and check out post #17 by Budro2.

Blow out port installations: X2 1200 mile sheave service, Grease less Hunterworks CVT Blow Out Port

Todd is now selling the secondary spring compressor again: Yamaha X2/X4 Spring Compressor. Added bonus - it comes with two bells so it will do our machines, plus other makes.

I emailed him and asked him to carry the blow out port. His response was that he doesn't have a Wolverine to do an install video on, and no way to actually test it to be sure it works. Makes sense - he only sells what he documents.
 

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Great write up!
 
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I just got done installing my blowout port and putting my buggy back together. It’s amazing after a service how efficiently the CVT functions after a service. Even better than after washing or blowing out the primary! Upon service I never find any of the grease in the primary or secondary looking horrible or dry!

I have sprayed graphite dry lube in the roller tracts and on the towers the last 2 times I’ve serviced. I have to wonder if there would be value in HW selling some of the dry magic pixie powder along with Tinkseal!

I’ve tried what’s recommended in the service manual for grease in the secondary as well as Tinkseal and 1 other grease that sounded good on paper to me. Can’t say I’ve really noticed any difference there, but since I’ve consistently noticed my sheave not performing right until up to 145 degrees, I know that grease temperature is part of the equation. I put a dollop of each of those 3 greases mentioned in the freezer and the Tinkseal won the battle on how thick and stiff it became hands down!

I’m excited to see if someone cuts that solid section out of the spider cage and or modifies their grease cover for air flow. What if that pushed enough air into the primary to resolve the issue on its own..... I already know running coverless that going high speed wide open does wonders for blowing it out. I have to wonder if that would be the difference?

These are great thoughts MO posted. Also a question, what are the 2 threaded holes on the outer edge of the spider cage next to the closed off section for? “Gen 1” don’t know if X model has that?

I’m not ready to experiment on my spider cage or dust cover incase I want to use grease, so someone get on it!!!!!
 

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Well this is my new way of blowing out my primary. Thanks to Massive for the idea of the portable tank. Got it at Wallyworld. 7 gal 125psi for $32. Now with the hose located to the front I hit the air at 35-40mph. I’m sure it’s completely spotless inside the primary now. Before was just in neutral hitting the throttle and air to it with my air compressor. IMG_3300.jpg
IMG_3301.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Well this is my new way of blowing out my primary. Thanks to Massive for the idea of the portable tank. Got it at Wallyworld. 7 gal 125psi for $32. Now with the hose located to the front I hit the air at 35-40mph. I’m sure it’s completely spotless inside the primary now. Before was just in neutral hitting the throttle and air to it with my air compressor.
View attachment 84746
Thanks for the picture showing where your air tube is. I wasn't clear on that before. I was wondering how you'd drive & use the blow nozzle at the same time. I see now!
 

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Just received my blow out connector for the CVT cover yesterday. I was expecting something with just a slightly bigger I.D. The minor I.D. of the fitting is 0.125" or 1/8" where the air comes through to blow out the dust in the primary. Now just taking the time to install it. Great info. in this thread.
 

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I initially mounted the other end of my blowout port in my rear wheel well so I could see how much dust was coming out. There's no reason to monitor how much is coming out...........I know the port is doing its job and making it easier to do the service is more important so I followed Infidel MT's lead and relocated my hose to underneath the seat via through the seat belt rubber cover



I left plenty of excess which I coiled up underneath the seat and you can't even see it with the seat bottom reinstalled.



I brought my 2 gallon portable air tank and purged it doing about 40 MPH. Pretty easy and painless.
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
This is in response to the post on Wolverine Nation FB group made by Clark: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1087039988025670/permalink/3236870936375887/

I’ve addressed a lot in this post but will also answer your points directly: https://www.wolverineforums.com/forum/268-x2-x4-cvt-sheaves-wet-clutch/30678-dust-problem-primary-sliding-sheave-hunterwork-s-greaseless-setup.html

First of all i want to thank Todd Eldridge with hunterworks for finally addressing this issue. Since I am involved in this video I just wanted to clear up some false info stated in this video. I also want to state that I have 0 issues with the hunterworks sheave, I only have issues with the hv weights and greaseless system. The sheave itself has worked well for me. I would much rather have a sheave that I have to maintenance every 1000 to 1500 miles with grease then one I have to maintenance every 100 miles. I will address the social media issues at the end.

This is a welcome departure from the normal HW bashing that MANY have jumped on due to JBS influence. The bashing isn’t something new. The fact that many in your group are jumping on the JBS bandwagon leads me to question some of their intentions, especially since YOU and some of them resort to personal attacks and then claim the other side is doing the same, that's a JBS moniker. Not once have I called you any derogatory names. Go ahead and call Matt, Randy, or Bill asses or use any other personal attack against them and see if you don’t get banned from this group (Wolverine Nation FB group). Why should I expect any less respect as an admin of a group?

1. We have five 2018-2020 wolverine x4s at our disposal to work on and test on. The 4 machines with the sheave issues had less then 500 miles on them when the hw sheave was installed. So the secondary causing the issue is just not accurate on our machines.

That’s fine and dandy. There are many that have already documented secondary sheave issues early on, pictures and posts to prove it on Wolverine Forums. So how about we agree that while it may not be your groups direct problem, that it’s not something to be dismissed for anyone who may have a CVT issue, regardless if they’re stock, or running JBS/HW. Also a statement of whether any of you have actually been into your secondary sheaves would help as well. Cholden, who is the crux of this entire debacle states “We’ve tried everything”, and that statement is what I have a problem with. You may have ‘reasoned’ everything, but you have not ‘tried’ everything.

2. You are correct that we have 4 machines with the issue plus the guy you mentioned in PA. Makes 5. Here are just a few others that have known issues. Evan steeves-canada, Marc Roberts-indiana, Sean kopchik-pennsylvania, Joseph lee-texas, a guy from Wisconsin, and a guy in Alaska. Sorry couldn't find the last 2 guys names. So to say this is an Oklahoma dirt issue is just untrue. We don't even ride in Oklahoma. Mainly Arkansas. This is just the few that I personally know of. Im sure there are several other non mechanically inclined guys that dont even know they have an issue.

I have pictures of Cholden trying OEM weights greaseless and they were ruined within 100 miles. I was running OEM 22 gram weights greaseless in my HW sheave and they naturally flat spotted, but were certainly not ruined in 100 miles. I’ve gone thousands of miles on them. The reason why I ran OEM 22 gram weights is because it’s not only difficult to produce 22 gram HV weights, but most wouldn’t buy them to justify producing them in quantity. I liked 22 gram weights because my needs required the best sustained top speed riding and I could spare some low end because I had no problems in that department for my area and I don’t mud. You can ask anyone who’s been to the Black Hills that we have plenty of dust. So why can I go thousands of miles on OEM weights with minor flat spotting whereas Cholden destroys a set in only 100 miles? Let’s concede that it’s not just your area but there are other areas around the country that may have the same conditions as you. Let’s also concede that driving style and conditions may have something to do with it and that there is not static norm.



4. Who invented this blowout port? Why did it even come into existence? It sounds to me like these issues were pre existing our issues if there was already a blow out port made to fix our issues. If I'm wrong please clarify for me.

I came up with the idea of the blowout port, which Michael (who makes many of Hunterwork’s products) put into a kit. I came up with this when I had my Viking long before the X2/X4 even came out. Here’s the post where I came up with the idea:

https://www.vikingforum.net/forum/47-viking-maintenance/4130-1400-mile-sheave-service.html

I don’t know of a single person who when it comes time to service their sheaves have happy-happy joy-joy feelings. It’s a PITA no matter what model you have. With my Rhino and Viking, there were no secondary problems and the only maintenance I had to worry about was blowing out the primary, which required removing it. With the blowout port, there was no need to take ANYTHING apart. Now I already know what you’re thinking: Romeo has a financial interest in pimping out this blowout port!! Michael and I had a gentleman’s agreement that I would get $1 for every blowout port kit sold. I haven’t held him to it, and really don’t care. Now if he were to sell a million of them I’d expect him to show me some love, but really I just wanted to make things easier for everyone and wanted to share my knowledge. I don’t get a kickback from NGK and I don’t own stock in hose clamps either. I do get free Tinkseal and Gear/Engine butter products, but don’t get compensated financially for pimping them out. I’ve addressed that in the first link.


The blow out port is not an option for us because our sheaves or hv weights were failing at 100 miles or less and we usually ride around 100-120 miles in a day. Therefore we would have to carry an on board air compressor to blow out our sheaves on the trail. We all know how little storage room the x4s provide. I guess we should leave our wife or kids at home to make room for the compressor.

Perfectly logical and acceptable answer? How about we do this? We let Todd’s customers contact Todd and let Todd recommend what those customers DO FIRST instead of Cholden telling EVERYONE YOU HAVE TO RUN GREASE??!! Like Chicken Little stating his way is the ONLY way? I have to blow my primary out about every 500 miles on average. I’ve gone longer BUT I’ve also had to blow it out sooner, but I’ve always been able to go a full day, which for me is 100-120 miles without having to blow it out. What do you guys do when you have a flat and if you carry a spare that goes flat as well? You don’t have to carry a 100 gallon shop compressor, you don’t even need to carry a compressor, I’m able to blow mine out with a 2 gallon portable air compressor and you could probably get away with half that size air tank, prefilled before you go out or even fill it with a portable cigarette lighter air compressor, I know EVERYONE carries one of those............once again this for you guys have extreme problems, and are not your average customer who can simply blow out their sheave after they get home. I find it sad that some in your group are making fun of me trying to find ideas and solutions to problems as if your way is the only way.

As far as the social media issue. As a small business owner myself I would have to agree with you for the most part. If you care to take a look at our past comments you will find we never even brought up the issue until recently. We were perfectly fine with keeping our mouths shut and keeping this on the down low as you requested via an e mail that we still have. We only tried giving guys advise that popped up on Facebook with the same issues. Telling them what worked for us. You were in the loop through our whole trial and error process. As I mentioned, we still have all the dozens of e mails that you don't want made public. But then along comes Romeo. Harassing us, making rude and
hateful comments. Trying to dis credit our fix that you were very much a part of. He is actually doing and treating your customers the very same way he claims JBS does. AND YOU WONDER WHY WE NOW HAVE A BAD TASTE IN OUR MOUTHS WITH HUNTERWORKS!!! Todd you haven't been an issue at all and for the most part I would say I have had i good experience with you, but it sure makes me wonder the kinda person you are by the company you keep.


This last paragraph is pure irony. You guys come to my group and call me names because you don’t like my statements. Please feel free to quote where I’ve ‘harassed’ you and made ‘rude and hateful’ comments. Now AFTER you called me an ass FIRST I may have gotten salty, but that shows your utter lack of respect. Once again I dare you to call Matt, Bill, or Randy ‘asses’ on this group and see if you don’t get banned. You guys may as well call me racist, bigot, or whatever. I’m not discrediting your fix, only that EVERYONE ELSE DO IT. You actually trying to defend JBS in any way discredits your argument. ‘JBS victim hood’ is a funny idea. You 6 or 10 can feel free to hate me all you want. I have 3500+ members who can speak to the opposite, who actually enjoy the information I provide them at no personal gain mind you.

Feel free to join the 7 or 8 Wolverine X2/X4 groups that JBS has created. Maybe you can tell me the difference between a Wolverine X2/X4 owner and a rider. Do owners simply look at their X2/X4’s and riders take a more active role than just ownership? What about Wolverine X4/X2 riders. What about Wolverine X2/X4 Enthusiasts? Are they somehow more excited about the X2/X4 than riders or owners? Yes, all these silly groups were created by Timmy\James to do one thing: Pimp out JBS. You won’t find out about NGK plugs or air intake inspection covers, or overfilling your engine oil, or dropped valve issues, or X2/X4 sheave maintenance there. Ask Timmy what a MAP sensor is or how drive-by-WIRE works.

I’ll conclude with comments about Cholden, which I know his buddies will share with him since he’s blocked. Cholden, I’ve spent hours answering your questions and helping you out, all without personal profit or gain. Not just sheave questions but others as well. If ‘I don’t know anything’, then why were you always coming to me for advice? Why not go to James or all-knowing, super-tech-savvy Timmy? I hope you’re never in the position to spend your time helping someone and then have them stab you in the back with disrespect and hate and disparage their character.
 
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This is in response to the post on Wolverine Nation FB group made by Clark: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1087039988025670/permalink/3236870936375887/

I’ve addressed a lot in this post but will also answer your points directly: https://www.wolverineforums.com/forum/268-x2-x4-cvt-sheaves-wet-clutch/30678-dust-problem-primary-sliding-sheave-hunterwork-s-greaseless-setup.html

First of all i want to thank Todd Eldridge with hunterworks for finally addressing this issue. Since I am involved in this video I just wanted to clear up some false info stated in this video. I also want to state that I have 0 issues with the hunterworks sheave, I only have issues with the hv weights and greaseless system. The sheave itself has worked well for me. I would much rather have a sheave that I have to maintenance every 1000 to 1500 miles with grease then one I have to maintenance every 100 miles. I will address the social media issues at the end.

This is a welcome departure from the normal HW bashing that MANY have jumped on due to JBS influence. The bashing isn’t something new. The fact that many in your group are jumping on the JBS bandwagon leads me to question some of their intentions, especially since YOU and some of them resort to personal attacks and then claim the other side is doing the same, that's a JBS moniker. Not once have I called you any derogatory names. Go ahead and call Matt, Randy, or Bill asses or use any other personal attack against them and see if you don’t get banned from this group (Wolverine Nation FB group). Why should I expect any less respect as an admin of a group?

1. We have five 2018-2020 wolverine x4s at our disposal to work on and test on. The 4 machines with the sheave issues had less then 500 miles on them when the hw sheave was installed. So the secondary causing the issue is just not accurate on our machines.

That’s fine and dandy. There are many that have already documented secondary sheave issues early on, pictures and posts to prove it on Wolverine Forums. So how about we agree that while it may not be your groups direct problem, that it’s not something to be dismissed for anyone who may have a CVT issue, regardless if they’re stock, or running JBS/HW. Also a statement of whether any of you have actually been into your secondary sheaves would help as well. Cholden, who is the crux of this entire debacle states “We’ve tried everything”, and that statement is what I have a problem with. You may have ‘reasoned’ everything, but you have not ‘tried’ everything.

2. You are correct that we have 4 machines with the issue plus the guy you mentioned in PA. Makes 5. Here are just a few others that have known issues. Evan steeves-canada, Marc Roberts-indiana, Sean kopchik-pennsylvania, Joseph lee-texas, a guy from Wisconsin, and a guy in Alaska. Sorry couldn't find the last 2 guys names. So to say this is an Oklahoma dirt issue is just untrue. We don't even ride in Oklahoma. Mainly Arkansas. This is just the few that I personally know of. Im sure there are several other non mechanically inclined guys that dont even know they have an issue.

I have pictures of Cholden trying OEM weights greaseless and they were ruined within 100 miles. I was running OEM 22 gram weights greaseless in my HW sheave and they naturally flat spotted, but were certainly not ruined in 100 miles. I’ve gone thousands of miles on them. The reason why I ran OEM 22 gram weights is because it’s not only difficult to produce 22 gram HV weights, but most wouldn’t buy them to justify producing them in quantity. I liked 22 gram weights because my needs required the best sustained top speed riding and I could spare some low end because I had no problems in that department for my area and I don’t mud. You can ask anyone who’s been to the Black Hills that we have plenty of dust. So why can I go thousands of miles on OEM weights with minor flat spotting whereas Cholden destroys a set in only 100 miles? Let’s concede that it’s not just your area but there are other areas around the country that may have the same conditions as you. Let’s also concede that driving style may have something to do with it



4. Who invented this blowout port? Why did it even come into existence? It sounds to me like these issues were pre existing our issues if there was already a blow out port made to fix our issues. If I'm wrong please clarify for me.

I came up with the idea of the blowout port, which Michael (who makes many of Hunterwork’s products) put into a kit. I came up with this when I had my Viking long before the X2/X4 even came out. Here’s the post where I came up with the idea:

https://www.vikingforum.net/forum/47-viking-maintenance/4130-1400-mile-sheave-service.html

I don’t know of a single person who when it comes time to service their sheaves have happy-happy joy-joy feelings. It’s a PITA no matter what model you have. With my Rhino and Viking, there were no secondary problems and the only maintenance I had to worry about was blowing out the primary, which required removing it. With the blowout port, there was no need to take ANYTHING apart. Now I already know what you’re thinking: Romeo has a financial interest in pimping out this blowout port!! Michael and I had a gentleman’s agreement that I would get $1 for every blowout port kit sold. I haven’t held him to it, and really don’t care. Now if he were to sell a million of them I’d expect him to show me some love, but really I just wanted to make things easier for everyone and wanted to share my knowledge. I don’t get a kickback from NGK and I don’t own stock in hose clamps either. I do get free Tinkseal and Gear/Engine butter products, but don’t get compensated financially for pimping them out. I’ve addressed that in the first link.


The blow out port is not an option for us because our sheaves or hv weights were failing at 100 miles or less and we usually ride around 100-120 miles in a day. Therefore we would have to carry an on board air compressor to blow out our sheaves on the trail. We all know how little storage room the x4s provide. I guess we should leave our wife or kids at home to make room for the compressor.

Perfectly logical and acceptable answer? How about we do this? We let Todd’s customers contact Todd and let Todd recommend what those customers DO FIRST instead of Cholden telling EVERYONE YOU HAVE TO RUN GREASE??!! Like Chicken Little stating his way is the ONLY way? I have to blow my primary out about every 500 miles on average. I’ve gone longer BUT I’ve also had to blow it out sooner, but I’ve always been able to go a full day, which for me is 100-120 miles without having to blow it out. What do you guys do when you have a flat and if you carry a spare that goes flat as well? You don’t have to carry a 100 gallon shop compressor, you don’t even need to carry a compressor, I’m able to blow mine out with a 2 gallon portable air compressor and you could probably get away with half that size air tank, prefilled before you go out or even fill it with a portable cigarette lighter air compressor, I know EVERYONE carries one of those............once again this for you guys have extreme problems, and are not your average customer who can simply blow out their sheave after they get home. I find it sad that some in your group are making fun of me trying to find ideas and solutions to problems as if your way is the only way.

As far as the social media issue. As a small business owner myself I would have to agree with you for the most part. If you care to take a look at our past comments you will find we never even brought up the issue until recently. We were perfectly fine with keeping our mouths shut and keeping this on the down low as you requested via an e mail that we still have. We only tried giving guys advise that popped up on Facebook with the same issues. Telling them what worked for us. You were in the loop through our whole trial and error process. As I mentioned, we still have all the dozens of e mails that you don't want made public. But then along comes Romeo. Harassing us, making rude and
hateful comments. Trying to dis credit our fix that you were very much a part of. He is actually doing and treating your customers the very same way he claims JBS does. AND YOU WONDER WHY WE NOW HAVE A BAD TASTE IN OUR MOUTHS WITH HUNTERWORKS!!! Todd you haven't been an issue at all and for the most part I would say I have had i good experience with you, but it sure makes me wonder the kinda person you are by the company you keep.


This last paragraph is pure irony. You guys come to my group and call me names because you don’t like my statements. Please feel free to quote where I’ve ‘harassed’ you and made ‘rude and hateful’ comments. Now AFTER you called me an ass FIRST I may have gotten salty, but that shows your utter lack of respect. Once again I dare you to call Matt, Bill, or Randy ‘asses’ on this group and see if you don’t get banned. You guys may as well call me racist, bigot, or whatever. I’m not discrediting your fix, only that EVERYONE ELSE DO IT. You actually trying to defend JBS in any way discredits your argument. ‘JBS victim hood’ is a funny idea. You 6 or 10 can feel free to hate me all you want. I have 3500+ members who can speak to the opposite, who actually enjoy the information I provide them at no personal gain mind you.

Feel free to join the 7 or 8 Wolverine X2/X4 groups that JBS has created? Maybe you can tell me the difference between an Wolverine X2/X4 owner and a rider. Do owners simply look at their X2/X4’s and riders take a more active role than just ownership? What about Wolverine X4/X2 riders. What about Wolverine X2/X4 Enthusiasts? Are they somehow more excited about the X2/X4 than riders or owners? Yes, all these silly groups were created by Timmy\James to do one thing: Pimp out JBS. You won’t find out about NGK plugs or air intake inspection covers, or overfilling your engine oil, or dropped valve issues, or X2/X4 sheave maintenance there. Ask Timmy what a MAP sensor is or how drive-by-WIRE works.

I’ll conclude with comments about Cholden, which I know his buddies will share with him since he’s blocked. Cholden, I’ve spent hours answering your questions and helping you out, all without personal profit or gain. Not just sheave questions but others as well. If ‘I don’t know anything’, then why were you always coming to me for advice? Why not go to James or all-knowing, super-tech-savvy Timmy? I hope you’re never in the position to spend your time helping someone and then have them stab you in the back with disrespect and hate and disparage their character.
Well said Massive. Thanks for all your contributions and hard work here and on FB. Also the blow out port gets two thumbs up. Great idea coming up with that. It works. No complaints here bud.
 

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Well said Massive. Thanks for all your contributions and hard work here and on FB. Also the blow out port gets two thumbs up. Great idea coming up with that. It works. No complaints here bud.
I Agree, very well said Massive.

In all honesty, with all the helpful information that you've documented and shared on FB, this forum and youtube, actually made me feel better about purchasing my X2 as I felt there was community support not to mention the information it provided when researching a vehicle before purchase.
So I want to Thank You for your time and sharing !

oh....and Yamaha owes you big time in my book.....lol :p
 

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Discussion Starter #14
For those of you who want to run OEM weights with your 'sheave only' Hunterwork's kit (still includes sliders), here are the part numbers thanks to Roland:

5KM-17632-00-00 / 18gr
5B4-17632-01 / 20gr
 
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Right, but I was just thinking that Yamaha placed the CVT intake in a spot to try and cut down on containment issues and maybe adding a little more protection would help w/ service intervals.
 
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Yeah I'm surprised our CVT doesn't have anything to filter dirt or dust. Anything would be better then nothing. As long as it doesn't restrict air flow. My last machine had a fine mesh screen for the CVT on my Commander 1000. The primary and secondary in it stayed cleaner then my X2 does. I don't know anything about Frogzskin but our intakes could sure use something.
 

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I don't seem to have any issues with the hunterworks sheave and weights in my X2. But all this back and forth with hw and jbs has me wondering which is better. I just watched James recent videos on YouTube about hw issues and jbs ratio.

If I just keep the hw blown out, is it going to last? Or is a greased system better? What is the ratio of a hw sheave? Jbs says his is 17.5% better than stock.
 

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I don't seem to have any issues with the hunterworks sheave and weights in my X2. But all this back and forth with hw and jbs has me wondering which is better. I just watched James recent videos on YouTube about hw issues and jbs ratio.

If I just keep the hw blown out, is it going to last? Or is a greased system better? What is the ratio of a hw sheave? Jbs says his is 17.5% better than stock.
No one can argue the longevity of the HW sheave and HV rollers. They last longer than anything running in grease.

As far as I’m concerned as a whole the dyno testing Infidelmt did all 3 sheaves is proof enough.


There is a sticky in the gen 1 CVT section about Dr pulley OD sliders and greaseless HV rollers that’s an interesting read!

Pros and cons to both systems. The debate will never die.

Edit: I see the pics are no longer visible but they were dramatic!
 
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