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I'm really excited to see how this comes out. You've got a great machine there and your customization is only making it better.
 

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The mounts raise the center over 1”but the top touches where the B pillar crossbar is. Being plastic it would probably flex enough for this to work. I am curious if the gen 1 top also touches at the top of the B pillar. That would confirm this approach. I am going to replace the crossbars with welded members that add some triangulation and take advantage of the curve to restore some head clearance.
I don't have mine to look at anymore, but IIRC it touched at the outer edges and it just popped over the bar after lowering.

You kind of see it here.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I don't have mine to look at anymore, but IIRC it touched at the outer edges and it just popped over the bar after lowering.

You kind of see it here.
Thanks. I am Definitely toying with the idea. If info comes out that 32s work ok with the CVT it is a done deal because I will need the extra clearance to compensate for a slightly larger tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I‘ve been working on the seat drop project every night and here are some pictures of the driver’s side.

This what you RMAX2 looks like without all the interior panels.
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It is definitely nice to know what is going on under that green plastic. Time to bring out the cutting tools.
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Welding everything back in 3” lower
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Everything fits and the seat adjustment still works...barely
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Discussion Starter #25
Continuing
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Putting the floor pan back in really shows the difference.
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chopped and put mostly back together. Waiting on delivery of some 1/8” HDPE sheet to fill the gaps in.
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So, it is definitely possible to chop the cage 3” and then drop the driver‘s seat the same 3” but it requires some work.
 

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You do really nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You do really nice work.
Thank you. My plastic experience is limited, it will be interesting to see what I can do with the wedge area and overall plastic bodywork. Past work was mostly aluminum but I kinda want to keep most of this plastic. It is quieter and doesn’t transfer nearly as much heat. With the center mount drivetrain, aluminum panels would have to be coated and include insulation everywhere. The stock center console has quite a bit but fortunately none of the lower plastic had it, keeping this mod a little simpler.
 

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Use a heat gun and go slow on the plastic. I like to use a tire spoon of pry bar end to mold plastic together. Once again go slow and try not to burn it. You want it to just start gettng liquidfy but not bubbly.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Finally caught up after a 2 day snowstorm that dumped 12”, in October! My plow is back ordered and I didn’t think it would be a big deal. I guess I am happy to be wrong because we needed the moisture.

First, I started down the path of installing a factory heater kit but I didn’t know it went under the driver seat...halfway through my seat drop project. I sure wish they put more info on the website about the accessories. Anyway, It was all going pretty good (got everything to fit with some bracket mods) until I needed to bend the copper heater coil hookups because the heater hoses wouldn’t go hard 90 without really kinking to clear the lowered seat brackets. I thought I succeeded but coming out after a lunch break proved otherwise. There was a puddle of green coolant on the ground and I traced it back to my freshly bent tubing. Here are some pictures of the thermostat bypass and the T in the return line.

Stock thermostat housing

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With the thermostat bypass heater core output
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T in the radiator return line
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With that fail I paused for the night and started looking at options. I was debating on a battery relocate and the spot where the battery is would make a much better location for a heater core with short duct runs to the dash. Pulled the stock battery and gave it a shake. Regular liquid lead acid battery. Not gonna sit on top of that!

Battery upgrade time! I had a Ruffstuff Optima battery case laying around from a previous project. I dropped the case under the seat and it looked like everything would fit so I ran to the parts store and got a Optima blue top with the nice posts. Batteries have gotten about $100 more than the last time I remember buying one. Ouch. Got it home and this was one of the easiest battery relocates I have done. I only had to drill holes in the case and one new hole in the skid plate.

I was able to recycle the socket head cap screws that didn’t work with the hause fairlead for the battery case. That was nice.
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With the new larger capacity Optima, that just barely fit through the seat brackets.
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Fully reversible setup with all stock battery cables still in place, only required bending the cable tab flat. Lots of electrical tape, split loom, and more electric tape and the setup is done.
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The mostly finished driver’s seat with modified seat angle and 3” lowered stance. I find it much more comfortable and easier to get in and out. The two mods together should also really improve the CG. Two people plus a battery is a lot of mass in a ~2000 lb car. I can’t wait to get out on the trails again to test it out.
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Headroom restored!
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Well done!
I just checked out my first RMAX 2 XTR today and I hate the seating position!!!

I know its personal preference but it felt like I was sitting on a stool with petals.

The quality of the seats seemed nice though.

I prefer the sit-in feel rather than sit-on-top feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well done!
I just checked out my first RMAX 2 XTR today and I hate the seating position!!!

I know its personal preference but it felt like I was sitting on a stool with petals.

The quality of the seats seemed nice though.

I prefer the sit-in feel rather than sit-on-top feel.
Stool with pedals is hilarious and totally accurate. They were several inches higher that my Ford Super Duty Seats!

Onto the passenger side. I ended up taking a totally different approach on the passenger side given the fixed position and fuel tank. I figured out I could drop the seat 2.5” by eliminating the seat frame and making some minor contouring mods to the base so that it fit around the filler neck section.

New integrated seat frame/gas tank retention system
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Seat back is now a separate section from the base and bolts in a the base and center of the upper seat frame. The seat belt mount is still part of the removable gas tank strap to ensure trans/engine removal remains the same.
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Modified seat base
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Modified plastics with nutserts replacing the crappy plastic rivets. I hate plastic rivets and I will be working to eliminate as many as possible.
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Bonus, easy fuel pump access!
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seat back installed. Wasn’t a huge fan of the shoulder braces and they wouldn’t clear the doors so they had to go. Ingress and egress is much easier without them.
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View from the rear is nicely restored head room and much more comfortable geometry.
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Front view
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2017 Wolverine SE
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@Barkbeetle

It begs the question. Are you and or wife tall?

I prefer a high seat position as I get a better view over the front as I do in my SUV as well. Dropping down visualizing my Gen 1 would certainly put me way too low. To me the viewing angle is key to navigating trails especially the tough ones. The angle and slope of the bottom is an improvement for comfort for sure.

You sure are adventurous tearing into a new machine. I'll give you that hands down 10 outta 10.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
@Barkbeetle, how does the new seating position feel?

How tall are you?

Can you still see easily over the front?

Thx,

Roost
5’11”. View over the hood is fine. It is all relative. When you go wheeling in a Super Duty on 37s anything else seems small with great visibility! If you want to get an idea of what it is like pull the seat base and lay a piece of sheet metal over the seat frame and sit on it. That is what I did and immediately decided it had to be done.

The Super Duty
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Agree it takes getting used to. Making the seating position comfortable is key and you've done that. My mini mod and seat Gel Custion did it for me. But I am up higher and like it.

Now to get it out and RIDE...Barkbeetle
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok, I did get the street legal kit and lighting harness slapped it good enough to get out on Sunday afternoon without worry about damaging any of it. High speed fire road body roll dropped dramatically, even with the shocks set on soft. I am very happy about this. Crawling and off camber situations were not bad before but these also feel much better and there is less body lean which translates to more stability. I purposely put the RMAX into some extreme situations and didn’t get tippy. I would really like to find a spot that I can creep up on sidehill angle until the verge of tipping and measure it to see how it compares to the stock rating. I find legroom near perfect at 5’11”. I know Yamaha made the seats so tall to compensate for the short wheelbase and corresponding footwell. If I were a couple inches taller I would probably start feeling cramped.

Non-adjustable Ford Super Duty seat height (around 14”) to the seam.
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The modified RMAX driver’s seat (around 13.5”)
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Seeing how far I can push the limit. Using my phone, this was 40 degrees but admittedly, the rear tire is helping to hold it up. Unfortunately I have been solo on most of these outings, so no sense of scale for how high the front tire was in the air, but I can tell you it was way up there (pushing 3’ under the tire) and the seatbelt was locked up when I got back in to drive out! I had no choice but to go slow with no seatbelt, 4x4 and locked diff of course. Drove out without any drama whatsoever. I was impressed.
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This is also a good time to show off the Yamaha UHMW skid plates. I am a big fan of Factory UTV but these are pretty close. I do wish it was one piece instead of 5 pieces.
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The detail oriented may also notice there is something a little different about my XTR nose now as well.
 

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2021 Yamaha RMAX 2 XT-R 1000
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You removed the bumper cover? Did you back into that or drive through it? Nice little trench!
 

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Winch is also converted to rope!
Are those skids available? What brand are they?
 

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2021 RMax 2 Gray in Nova Scotia
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Well done. I couldn't have tried that and found a different route. Bumper cover is gone and looks like you cracked the front passenger side of the skid plate, just aft of the wheel well.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
You removed the bumper cover? Did you back into that or drive through it? Nice little trench!
I backed in this time so I could ease it down slow. Next time I might try to drive through the series of ruts. That could make it even more interesting.
 
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