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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I think it is in my DNA to ruin millions of R&D dollars from OEMs. I completely worked over my 2014 RXR XP 1000 and I told myself I would wait till the warranty ran out in 6 months before I broke out the welder...well I made it 2 weeks!

I couldn’t stand the seat geometry! Reviews say the RMAX is 90% sport and 10% utility. Well the seat geometry is 90% utility and 10% sport! I went on a rougher rock crawl wash run and found myself constantly sliding out of the seat with the lap belt digging in to keep me in. The seat base is also extremely short when compared to my Super Duty. Not acceptable, time for the cutoff wheel and grinder.

89388

RMAX seat at 17”

89389

Super Duty at 21”

Modified seat frames with rear tube moved 2” forward and front lock flipped and moved an equivalent amount to get the base out to 19”. Frames were also bent to raise the front an inch for better retention.
89390

The next project regarding the seats will require major surgery. I am going to lower everything 2-3” Because the whole seat position is just way too tall for my liking. When I took my RMAX down for the warranty repair I sat in a YXZ and the seat geometry was vastly superior. The cushions appeared to be the same and I like them, which is why I went for the frame mod instead of replacing the entire seat. Scoping out the drive’s side looks like it will be fairly simple. The passenger’s side will require a new gas tank. There is a bunch of wasted space in there too, so I may end up being able to increase the capacity of the tank in the process.

Even more annoying is the total height of this thing. Wouldn’t even fit in my ATC toyhauler so a little bit of rework to the cage was in order. 3” cage chop turned out to be real easy. Major warning here, head clearance to the cage is critical and I am only doing this because I know I will be lowering the seats anyway and I am going to redo the crossbars on the roof for better helmet clearance and strength. For reference, at 6’ tall with my helmet on, I still have ~1.5” of clearance to the crossbar but this is way to close for proper safety.

stock
89391

minus 3”
89392

ground out the weld on the A pillar cage coupler and cut the same 3” as the rear and down she goes.
89393

89394

All welded up with the rear upper x-brace cut, coped and burned in to look very close to stock
89395

With the full 3” chop, the top of the plastic roof sits at 73.25” and barely clears my happyjack bed in the toyhauler.
89396

My girls said it looked a lot less like a golf car too.The original didn’t bother me but I agree that lower does look a lot better.
89397
 

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So do you think that a after market seat will fit in the R MAX. Tried to fit after market in the X2 , not enough width between the console and door. Hopefully more room in the RMAX.
 

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I love the chop! Yeah that 78” tall factory is a bit much.
 
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Take a look at the roof its self. On the gen 1 I was able cut the roof mounts to get it another 1 inch lower to the cage.

Looks good so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So do you think that a after market seat will fit in the R MAX. Tried to fit after market in the X2 , not enough width between the console and door. Hopefully more room in the RMAX.
I just measured the width and it might be challenging.You have 20” from the inside of the door to the center console. My recollection is that most seats are wider than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Take a look at the roof its self. On the gen 1 I was able cut the roof mounts to get it another 1 inch lower to the cage.

Looks good so far.
The mounts raise the center over 1”but the top touches where the B pillar crossbar is. Being plastic it would probably flex enough for this to work. I am curious if the gen 1 top also touches at the top of the B pillar. That would confirm this approach. I am going to replace the crossbars with welded members that add some triangulation and take advantage of the curve to restore some head clearance.
 

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Looks good. I think it will look better with the seats lowered. Being 6' you may want to tilt the seat back like a yxz so you don't lose as much leg room. I think your on the right track and keep us posted. Wish I had the nerve and skills to do something like this. It may be the angle of the picture but the top of the seat looks really close to the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The next to go was the wire rope and roller fair lead.
89451


I went ahead and bought the Yamaha/Warn synthetic rope upgrade kit and overall I am happy with it. In my opinion, it should have come with synthetic line stock. Wire rope can be dangerous and is significantly heavier.

The kit
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89444

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Everything was going great until I compared the stock flange bolts to the socket head cap screws included in the kit.
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The stock flange bolts are M10x1.25 and thread into weld nuts. The kit included M10x1.5 socket head cap screws with matching lock nuts. The flange bolts won’t fit in the countersunk holes of the Hawse fairlead and the socket head cap screws won’t fit the welded on nuts in the frame. Two choices: cut the weld nuts off (pain in the butt) or go to the hardware store and buy some M10x1.25 socket head cap screws. I chose the hardware store. Yamaha and Warn need to communicate better!
89448

After winding the rope uphill to keep tension on the line, I didn’t like that I couldn’t dress the line very well as I wound it up so I cut the plastic cover back for better access.
89449

I personally like the base model bumper better. Onto the next mod...
 

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I think it is in my DNA to ruin millions of R&D dollars from OEMs. I completely worked over my 2014 RXR XP 1000 and I told myself I would wait till the warranty ran out in 6 months before I broke out the welder...well I made it 2 weeks!

I couldn’t stand the seat geometry! Reviews say the RMAX is 90% sport and 10% utility. Well the seat geometry is 90% utility and 10% sport! I went on a rougher rock crawl wash run and found myself constantly sliding out of the seat with the lap belt digging in to keep me in. The seat base is also extremely short when compared to my Super Duty. Not acceptable, time for the cutoff wheel and grinder.

View attachment 89388
RMAX seat at 17”

View attachment 89389
Super Duty at 21”

Modified seat frames with rear tube moved 2” forward and front lock flipped and moved an equivalent amount to get the base out to 19”. Frames were also bent to raise the front an inch for better retention.
View attachment 89390
The next project regarding the seats will require major surgery. I am going to lower everything 2-3” Because the whole seat position is just way too tall for my liking. When I took my RMAX down for the warranty repair I sat in a YXZ and the seat geometry was vastly superior. The cushions appeared to be the same and I like them, which is why I went for the frame mod instead of replacing the entire seat. Scoping out the drive’s side looks like it will be fairly simple. The passenger’s side will require a new gas tank. There is a bunch of wasted space in there too, so I may end up being able to increase the capacity of the tank in the process.

Even more annoying is the total height of this thing. Wouldn’t even fit in my ATC toyhauler so a little bit of rework to the cage was in order. 3” cage chop turned out to be real easy. Major warning here, head clearance to the cage is critical and I am only doing this because I know I will be lowering the seats anyway and I am going to redo the crossbars on the roof for better helmet clearance and strength. For reference, at 6’ tall with my helmet on, I still have ~1.5” of clearance to the crossbar but this is way to close for proper safety.

stock
View attachment 89391
minus 3”
View attachment 89392
ground out the weld on the A pillar cage coupler and cut the same 3” as the rear and down she goes.
View attachment 89393
View attachment 89394
All welded up with the rear upper x-brace cut, coped and burned in to look very close to stock
View attachment 89395
With the full 3” chop, the top of the plastic roof sits at 73.25” and barely clears my happyjack bed in the toyhauler.
View attachment 89396
My girls said it looked a lot less like a golf car too.The original didn’t bother me but I agree that lower does look a lot better.
View attachment 89397
Love what you're doing here!

I am a tinkerer myself so good things will help others.

My concerns with this mod is headroom and the windshield will likely not fit due to shorter front window (for those that care).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good stuff man! Loving the cage chop. That's the first I've seen on a RMAX.
Thanks! I’m gonna need a shortened front and rear window for the winter. Do you think I can cut your windows without cracking them?
I am neck deep in seat lowering right now, then the SuperATV universal street legal kit will go in. I’ll have pictures on it soon. I got the driver and passenger down 3” to match the cage chop without making a custom gas tank. It’s gonna be so nice! Lower CG, better handling and more comfortable. I think I will move the battery under the driver too. That is a lot of weight up high.
 

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Thanks! I’m gonna need a shortened front and rear window for the winter. Do you think I can cut your windows without cracking them?
I am neck deep in seat lowering right now, then the SuperATV universal street legal kit will go in. I’ll have pictures on it soon. I got the driver and passenger down 3” to match the cage chop without making a custom gas tank. It’s gonna be so nice! Lower CG, better handling and more comfortable. I think I will move the battery under the driver too. That is a lot of weight up high.
I hope you're taking pics of all this goodness!
I dont think you will be alone in this adventure.
 

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Looks great man! I second the you got guts comment. You do good work though. Very nice.
 

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Thanks! I’m gonna need a shortened front and rear window for the winter. Do you think I can cut your windows without cracking them?
I am neck deep in seat lowering right now, then the SuperATV universal street legal kit will go in. I’ll have pictures on it soon. I got the driver and passenger down 3” to match the cage chop without making a custom gas tank. It’s gonna be so nice! Lower CG, better handling and more comfortable. I think I will move the battery under the driver too. That is a lot of weight up high.
Good call on the battery with the weight distribution down low and opposite the gas tank.

You shouldn't have any problem cutting our windshields. We really don't recommend it.....pretty much just don't want to see anybody mess it up and want to ship it back. Lol! But you know what you're doing. As long as you make clean cuts without getting the poly to warm, it'll be ok. No prob.
 

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I am neck deep in seat lowering right now, then the SuperATV universal street legal kit will go in. I’ll have pictures on it soon. I got the driver and passenger down 3” to match the cage chop without making a custom gas tank. It’s gonna be so nice! .
Yes, its going to be very nice, Can't wait to see pics.
 
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