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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just got through writing a tech article on the clutch kits and machined sheaves coming out for the Wolverine and Viking neither of which is available today but should this week.

Thought you might want to read the tech article.

Click the link to the article


Link to tech article on our site


Thanks,
Todd
 

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I read it but I have a question. In your opinion, is it risky to run a 27" AT tire on these machines with none of these modifications?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I read it but I have a question. In your opinion, is it risky to run a 27" AT tire on these machines with none of these modifications?
No sir, not risky at all just will be down on some performance from the higher load and lower RPM. Sounds like you are concerned about hurting something, I don't think you will with a 27" tire

Todd
 

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Ok, I'm not a mechanic and it don't have a million dollars stashed away to blow on repairs all the time. With that being said i am running 27" mudlite xl tires on my stock wheels. No snorkels or any of that. I like to keep my butt dry but don't mind the toes getting moist if you know what it mean (I don't drown my bikes in sink holes). So in your opinion, should it leave everything stock and keep running my 27" tires or should i do all this slugging and machining?
 

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I read it but I have a question. In your opinion, is it risky to run a 27" AT tire on these machines with none of these modifications?
There is not enough information here in this question to answer it properly.

No sir, not risky at all just will be down on some performance from the higher load and lower RPM. Sounds like you are concerned about hurting something, I don't think you will with a 27" tire

Todd
Please don't post inaccurate things like this, they are misleading coming from a "mechanic".


In response to the question:
It depends. It depends on not just the tire height, but the width as well, and the aggressiveness of the tread design. It also depends on the TYPE of riding you do, the DURATION of riding, and the FREQUENCY of said riding. All of these things together will determine the answer to your question. To be fair, any tire taller or wider or more aggressive than stock will have an effect on the the wet clutch life at low speeds. If you do nothing but high speed trail riding, for leisure, 5-6 times a year, then NO, you will not be "risking" much of anything by running a larger than stock tire. However, if you like to ride in the slower, rockier, more technical trails, then YES, you do run the risk of causing premature wear. However, it is not likely to reduce the life of the wet clutch enough to deter you from running the tires. Now, much larger than that, and I would consider modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I'm not a mechanic and it don't have a million dollars stashed away to blow on repairs all the time. With that being said i am running 27" mudlite xl tires on my stock wheels. No snorkels or any of that. I like to keep my butt dry but don't mind the toes getting moist if you know what it mean (I don't drown my bikes in sink holes). So in your opinion, should it leave everything stock and keep running my 27" tires or should i do all this slugging and machining?
Apparently from the response above from Fordtruckman you asked your question wrong and I answered it wrong.

I didn't want you to think you have done something awful and must do something. I wanted you to know things can be improved and lasts longer.

Everyone can benefit from slugging the wet clutch, anytime you slip it less it wears less

That actual tire choice is heavy so yes it will wear the wet clutch faster

Now for hurting anything else, I can't think of a thing it would really hurt and could be put on the spot if I said yes using 27" will certainly hurt whatever.

But those are heavy 27 so your performance and top speed will be affected.


FYI, for anyone reading my responses I do not normally give totally technical and long answers. I reserve that for the tech articles.

Todd
 

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Apparently from the response above from Fordtruckman you asked your question wrong and I answered it wrong.

I didn't want you to think you have done something awful and must do something. I wanted you to know things can be improved and lasts longer.

Everyone can benefit from slugging the wet clutch, anytime you slip it less it wears less

That actual tire choice is heavy so yes it will wear the wet clutch faster

Now for hurting anything else, I can't think of a thing it would really hurt and could be put on the spot if I said yes using 27" will certainly hurt whatever.

But those are heavy 27 so your performance and top speed will be affected.


FYI, for anyone reading my responses I do not normally give totally technical and long answers. I reserve that for the tech articles.

Todd
This is precisely what I am referring to. If someone asks a question, specifically about the likelihood of damage occurring to their machine, either respond with a complete answer, or don't respond at all. It won't hurt anything if you don't respond. However, when you answer as you did the first time, someone who is trying to learn about the topic doesn't actually learn anything. I don't normally call people out about this type of thing, but you are a vendor, selling a product and service on this forum, and you project the attitude that it is not worth your time to answer someone in a complete fashion when they ask you a question. Please, answer the question completely, or don't answer at all.
 

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I sit back and watch the hilarity that comes from Todd's mouth. He uses Yamaha videos to explain what he doesn't understand all while leading people to do more harm than good to their machines. A quick search of the viking forums proves this. He CANT answer completely, because he doesn't know the answer. Once his product fails to sell on the wolverine, it will be called a "turd" like the viking(his words, not mine). Other clutch companies can and do make the viking spin 30's in the mud. There are videos to prove this point. Anyone with half a brain can see through his shit. I'm for one am tired if reading his posts telling people the wrong information. I'm generally a sideline reader, but telling someone they asked the question wrong is bullshit. We knew what he ment. Todd didn't know how to answer. Before you try selling someone an Inferior product, maybe you should understand what the product does before you make it.
 

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Not to pick sides I see both points of view. If someone asked me, and I've answered on here before. I feel most people will be safe on 27, the more aggressive and heavier the tire you get to higher there likelihood of a problem.

With that said, they have people that tear up machines on 25in tires and people that ride 30in and never really have an issue. The best we can do is speak in generality because we all drive differently in different environments.

I run 28, ran them on the grizzly never had a problem on it.. When I really get suck, I get pulled or winched out.. That's when things get in a bind and break. I'm more likely to put less stress on the machine by not getting stuck as often as someone on a stock machine, but I drive tactically, I pick the best lines and lock 4wd, or the front diff before I get stuck.

I will say this for me is a hobby, I ride for fun. I don't use my wolverine for work.. I accept things no matter how well built will wear and /or break.

I'd say do exactly what you're doing. Asking questions and research. Build what you want and ride it within its limits and you'll have years of fun on this machine.
 

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Side note: on the grizzly I used a 1mm shim and epi purple clutch spring and it would spin the 28in like 25in tires. Total cost on clutch mods around $50.. And it made a difference! I did lose a few mph on the top end, but I didn't need to do 50+ mph on it.
 

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Thanks for the input all. Mainly I deer hunt here in LA with it and about once a week I'll take a spin on it for an hour or so putting out corn and working on the deer lease and such hardly ever getting stuck, and I don't really mud on it to much so a lighter not to aggressive 27" tire sounds right up my alley. When I asked the question I already had a good idea about the answer but wanted a second opinion mainly bc this is the first cvt bike ive ever owned so I was taking an "extra step" by asking the question, a general one, just looking for a general answer and I got a couple. Ive been riding all my life but its always been on Hondas and I know a lot of people in here know about these types of transmissions on these yamahas. This forum is cool you can ask a question and in a few minutes you get all the free real life info you can handle. And it does come from fallible human beings with different propensities and from all walks of life and that even makes it more useful to me, imo.
 

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At 1,249 miles now. I installed 25 inch Big Horns and they are about the same size as the 26 inch 2.0 tires. Decided not to use it for extreme rock crawling. The Wolverine is great with stock size tires and the suspension, build quality, and performance make it a keeper. Low range is not low enough and its expensive to buy and install the belt and slug kits. The stupid steep difficult stuff needs a rope and a couple of big guys to keep it from looping out or rolling over if a rear wheel suddenly loses traction. I will use the yet to be announced Honda Pioneer 1,000 with the 5 speed double clutch trans with a low range. It comes with 27 inch tires. Until its available I will continue to use my Pioneer 500 with the super low gearing. I installed 1.5mm of shims on my Grizzly 700 and the guys used the shims on the Suzuki King Quad 700 too. My buddy has the Grizzly 700 with over 14,000 miles on it now. It is on its 3rd belt now and we run 27 inch Big Horns on it. Still runs like new.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I sit back and watch the hilarity that comes from Todd's mouth. He uses Yamaha videos to explain what he doesn't understand all while leading people to do more harm than good to their machines. A quick search of the viking forums proves this. He CANT answer completely, because he doesn't know the answer. Once his product fails to sell on the wolverine, it will be called a "turd" like the viking(his words, not mine). Other clutch companies can and do make the viking spin 30's in the mud. There are videos to prove this point. Anyone with half a brain can see through his shit. I'm for one am tired if reading his posts telling people the wrong information. I'm generally a sideline reader, but telling someone they asked the question wrong is bullshit. We knew what he ment. Todd didn't know how to answer. Before you try selling someone an Inferior product, maybe you should understand what the product does before you make it.
I think you have me confused with someone else's post. I have never used Yamaha's videos to explain the CVT

I also didn't tell anyone they asked the wrong question either.

And you can't make a clutch spin 30" tires any better than we do

If the belt is as low as it can go, there is no where else for it to go so NOONE can make it do more

Add a slug kit to the wet clutch for the wet clutch grip and that all you can do.

Telling people wrong, what exactly did I say that wrong?

Todd
 

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At 1,249 miles now. I installed 25 inch Big Horns and they are about the same size as the 26 inch 2.0 tires. Decided not to use it for extreme rock crawling. The Wolverine is great with stock size tires and the suspension, build quality, and performance make it a keeper. Low range is not low enough and its expensive to buy and install the belt and slug kits. The stupid steep difficult stuff needs a rope and a couple of big guys to keep it from looping out or rolling over if a rear wheel suddenly loses traction. I will use the yet to be announced Honda Pioneer 1,000 with the 5 speed double clutch trans with a low range. It comes with 27 inch tires. Until its available I will continue to use my Pioneer 500 with the super low gearing. I installed 1.5mm of shims on my Grizzly 700 and the guys used the shims on the Suzuki King Quad 700 too. My buddy has the Grizzly 700 with over 14,000 miles on it now. It is on its 3rd belt now and we run 27 inch Big Horns on it. Still runs like new.
Soooo am I the only one who is interested in this statement????? Bob, how the heck do you have inside info on this stuff? I'm jealous!
 

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I just hope I didn't buy the wrong machine...if this yamaha comes out and blows this wolverine out of the water Im gonna be pissed. I hope for my own sake it is a $20k sand dune beast...not a trail bike lol.
With a 900- 1000 3 cylinder and probably super long travel I'm expecting it to be a dessert monster. I'm sure people here will lift it and make it a mud trail machine. The wolverine is a great machine. If they made a more compact 4 seater sport model I'd be slightly ticked. I wanted four seats, but the wolverine is so good I got anyway.
 

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Honda may also announce a small single sport model. The info is on the hondaprokevin.com site. I expect the Yamaha 3 cylinder will have a 5 speed trans with paddle shifters. Price may be near 20k but I'm hoping for a couple thou less. The Yamaha Avenger may have 130 hp and a 170 hp supercharged model to follow the next year. The dune guys will go crazy if this happens. Most just hate belt drive and the sand is really hard on a belt drive especially with over 100 hp.

Hey Guys Todd is right about belt drive. You can only drop the belt down so far for a lower start off gear. Lighter rollers will let the engine rev more and the slug kit will increase the wet clutch life. Using the lighter narrow 9 inch mud tires will help and the ground clearance is more important. You need to be able to spin them fast. If you want to run the big heavy 30's you should consider the Polaris or Can-Am Mud models with over 100 hp. It takes an experienced driver to avoid problems with 30 inch tires on a Yamaha and when you get stuck its easy to get pissed and hammer it to death instead of winching it out. I have bought lots of parts for my Rhino's, my Teryx, and some accessories from Todd and never had a problem. He will tell you the truth about the upgrades, the good and the bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Honda may also announce a small single sport model. The info is on the hondaprokevin.com site. I expect the Yamaha 3 cylinder will have a 5 speed trans with paddle shifters. Price may be near 20k but I'm hoping for a couple thou less. The Yamaha Avenger may have 130 hp and a 170 hp supercharged model to follow the next year. The dune guys will go crazy if this happens. Most just hate belt drive and the sand is really hard on a belt drive especially with over 100 hp.

Hey Guys Todd is right about belt drive. You can only drop the belt down so far for a lower start off gear. Lighter rollers will let the engine rev more and the slug kit will increase the wet clutch life. Using the lighter narrow 9 inch mud tires will help and the ground clearance is more important. You need to be able to spin them fast. If you want to run the big heavy 30's you should consider the Polaris or Can-Am Mud models with over 100 hp. It takes an experienced driver to avoid problems with 30 inch tires on a Yamaha and when you get stuck its easy to get pissed and hammer it to death instead of winching it out. I have bought lots of parts for my Rhino's, my Teryx, and some accessories from Todd and never had a problem. He will tell you the truth about the upgrades, the good and the bad.
Thank you sir!!
 

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General questions are great and I don't mind general answers either. So say, I drowned the CVT. What is the best way to recover from that in the Wolverine? Just let it sit there and idle?

I'm sure it would need to be taken apart and so forth but if your out in the middle of nowhere and that creek was a little deeper than you thought. :D Just wondering what the general consensus to get the Wolverine moving again.
 
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