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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just got done doing a home made slug kit and clutch kit. does very well. i was able to do it all for less than 35 bucks.before work bike would take off but no fun factory .
now has whole lot more bottom end.from dead stop it will get side ways . it accels 10 time better like night and day. if any one interested ill tell what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i brought purple spring from epi . that was 32.00 shiped to house.
for my slug kit i melted wheel weights down and poured in to the holes on the wet clutch.
used Anaerobic Gasket Maker for my wet clutch cover gasket. its like 3.00. i know the yamaha gasket aint that much but it was going take a week to get it.
as far as the clutch weights i cut the sides off the plastic and pushed out the metal weight and drilled 3 1/4 in holes reintsalled sleeves for a grand total of 18 grams.
went to napa machine shop and got valve spring shim they are .075 mm i used two of them to get the 1.5 mm i need.
reinstalled and test drove . night and day different. and save atlest 250 bucks. i know its not a machined sleeve but it works great . i am running 27 swamp lite but looking go to outlaws soon.

use all this at your own risk
 

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I have received numerous requests on how to add lead weight to the wet clutch, So I have put some Pic's together to help. Adding weight to the wet clutch does basically two things, It engages the clutch earlier for better bottom end take off, And helps stop the clutch from slipping under a load. This was an experiment I tried when I was Mud racing and it made a Huge difference. I now perform this mod on everyday riders and they all love it. As the pics show, dissemble the top of the wet clutch, Measure out 6 to 9 grams of lead for each hole, use a bent spoon and torch to melt the lead and then pour into each hole in the clutch shoe. If you melt it in you don't need to secure it with anything. then put the plates and spring back on top of the clutch. One warning, on the 700 shoes they have a slot at the bottom that might let some melted lead out, If it does just re melt it and pour it back in the hole. Good luck, Mike
For more info, click the 9g in my signature below. :)

IMG_1260.jpg IMG_1261.jpg IMG_1264.jpg IMG_1265.jpg IMG_1266.jpg
 

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Putting the 1.5 mm shim will drop the belt down potentially too low and since there is a lip or protrusion on the sheave where the seal is, it will hit it or will hit it as the belt wears, this is why we machine the lip off with a machined sheave plus you have more RPM throughout the whole range with the shims because you are moving the sheave away from the fixed plate and it will cut down on top speed some to for the same reason.



By machining the sheave in the inside where the weights are you get the same low or actually more and as soon as the belt moves away from the center as you speed up you don't have the lower rpm that the shims would have.

If the lip was not there then a shim mod would not be a bad slow speed only mod.

As far as the weights go, sounds like a good do it yourself job if you don't mind doing all that and have a scale, a melting pot etc where as the slug kits just drop in.

On the purple spring, it is not enough of a change over stock, I would have chosen the gold.

Also, the gasket serves two purposes, one is sealing and one is spacing, using gasket maker could have a potential for concern on the one way bearing that goes between the wet clutch and drum portion.

All in all playing around is the fun part.

You really should not reuse that nut on the wet clutch though. For anyone else wanting to do the lead thing themselves, you can call us, we can sell you gasket, nut and gold spring at a really good price.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You know it's amazing when you find away to build a better mouse trap therr always someone therr to give you 100 reason why you shouldn't or why it wouldn't work. Esp when they feel your taking money out there pocket. Now what I have don't may not make it though the day . I don't know. But as of right now it works for me . But it's my understanding that this site was here to share your experience and help each other member out not tell everybody why what you don't is not right by a book. So instead of hey buddy you done wrong and this is what I done .how bout a hey buddy sound like you may be on to something hope it work well for you and if you have any issue call me and I'll see if I can help you. But hey what can I say we all ain't out to help our fellow brother out
 

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slowride,

not sure if its a better mouse trap but it is a cheaper one for sure, well done.
 

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You know it's amazing when you find away to build a better mouse trap therr always someone therr to give you 100 reason why you shouldn't or why it wouldn't work. Esp when they feel your taking money out there pocket. Now what I have don't may not make it though the day . I don't know. But as of right now it works for me . But it's my understanding that this site was here to share your experience and help each other member out not tell everybody why what you don't is not right by a book. So instead of hey buddy you done wrong and this is what I done .how bout a hey buddy sound like you may be on to something hope it work well for you and if you have any issue call me and I'll see if I can help you. But hey what can I say we all ain't out to help our fellow brother out
You are 100% right this is a place to share and I 100% behind you on trying things. You said this site was to share experience, I was thinking that was what I was bringing to the table, been doing these clutches for 15 years and I am here to help you or anyone else.

Really my response was not necessarily for you, it was for others. I was protecting you I was thinking, what if someone did these things that we know cause problems and then blamed you for telling them to do it and tore their vehicle up. You would not feel good.

So I was just giving points to ponder is all.


You said we all aren't out to help our fellow brother out, that is exactly what I was intending to do.

Im sorry if my comments rubbed you wrong, I was not intentionally being negative.

Todd
 

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Putting the 1.5 mm shim will drop the belt down potentially too low and since there is a lip or protrusion on the sheave where the seal is, it will hit it or will hit it as the belt wears, this is why we machine the lip off with a machined sheave plus you have more RPM throughout the whole range with the shims because you are moving the sheave away from the fixed plate and it will cut down on top speed some to for the same reason.
This is absolutely correct. Not only can the belt drop too low in the primary, but it also may be too high in the secondary and rub your cvt cover. You must check and recheck when adding shims to your primary sheave. The image below shows the center lip edge which the belt can potentially hit and become damaged. I had Todd machine off the lip on my primary sheave.




As far as the weights go, sounds like a good do it yourself job if you don't mind doing all that and have a scale, a melting pot etc where as the slug kits just drop in.
Melting lead is potentially dangerous and you need an accurate scale to measure precisely. We're talking about swinging shoes turning upwards of 9000 rpm. It's not a job for everyone. Brass weights are about 6 grams each, give you a nice power to rpm take off ratio and are simple to install.

Lyman Lead Dipper below, this actually pours lead from the bottom of the melt as to avoid impurities.



I have always used hot lead, hence my 9g mod and is 50% heavier than the brass slugs. This provides even higher lockup off the bottom. However, using this much weight will most likely result in you having to lower your idle speed.

You really should not reuse that nut on the wet clutch though. For anyone else wanting to do the lead thing themselves, you can call us, we can sell you gasket, nut and gold spring at a really good price.

Todd
Yes, do not reuse your wet clutch nut. It's just not worth the possible damage you could do to your engine if it were to come loose. They are tiny fine threads and you are peening part of the nut surface over.


This is not a new mod by any means and people have been weighting their clutches long since the Suzuki King Quad days. There are do's and don'ts in any mod and Todd was trying to help keep us out of trouble. Hunterworks is a huge wealth of information and has many years of experience with both these clutches and swing weight clutches. I am glad he is here to help us with our projects and sponsor this forum as well. :cool:
 

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[help keep us out of trouble. Hunterworks is a huge wealth of information and has many years of experience with both these clutches and swing weight clutches. I am glad he is here to help us with our projects and sponsor this forum as well. :cool:[/QUOTE]

I agree. I have read most all posts on this site for the past 6+ months and every post Todd put up was very helpful as well as several others very helpful fellas. I am confident doing outer Fab work but my skills lack with all the internal mechanical stuff. Thank you for all your words of wisdom Todd as well as many others on this site.

As for the trolls and others that just like to snap at many helpful wolverine owners, why even answer to it. Maybe you do not want to listen to years of knowledge but there are many more that do like and appreciate them taking the time to help us less knowledgeable people. So many of us on this site that are first time SxS owners like me and do not have any experience with CVT transmissions so when we all have the benefit of 15-20 yrs of knowledge willing to point us in the right direction (don't follow it if you choose but don't be rude to the them, most of all of us other appreciate them) say thank you but I am going to try this way and share your experience with us all.
 
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