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The average person doesn’t even know the difference between mig and tig let alone AC tig for aluminum. Having a AC tig + 100% argon or helium mix + tungsten just isn’t practical for most people.
 

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I was just going to explain that to him. :) Also, they take lots of practice for the average shade tree. Tigs can be very cost effective. Once one person finds out you have one everyone wants a job done for them. Lol
Yeah basically pretty much the same as oxy welding, just create a puddle and keep it flowing. If you can oxy weld then you can TIG no issue ;) In saying that oxy is good to practice with if need be, as Oxy/Acet with wire rod is a lot cheaper than alloy filler rod and Argon 😄 If your already a gun at oxy welding then go for it 👍 A lot of older tradies are good at it as they cut their teeth on Oxy as in those days Oxy and stick was basically all that was common..
I have one of these units running a foot pedal with Argon and you don't realise how handy it is till you have one. Biggest issue in Aust is we get a lot of recycled Aluminium which has a lot of impurities in it, making it hard to get a nice clean weld sometimes. Stainless wire brush and cleaned with Acetone before you start is a must with the material we get to work with. If this unit packs it in the next one will be a Miller but plenty 💲💲💲💲💲

Motor vehicle Wheel Tire Gas Fender
 

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Go out and buy an aluminum trailer and you will get your money’s worth out of that AC tig welder in no time. They constantly crack and break. Definitely not made for the roads in my town pot holes everywhere. LOL
 

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Hello, jumping in this post since I'm having issues with my front diff and not too sure how to process. The diff is all out and on the work bench.
I'm hoping someone with knowledge can give some tips.
Here is what happened...
Was stuck in a ditch and to get out had to cut the wheel to the left and giver. I was just in 4wd. Didn't notice or heard something wrong until I was out. Once out, continued driving a bit and Rmax was acting weird and pulling to the right when accelerating. I stopped to look at it and the right diff seal was leaking oil. I also had quite a bit of play on the inner axle where the seal is. I switched back to 2wd and left driver front wheel is stuck in 4wd?? Anyhow now everything is apart and both axles seems fine and I cannot see obvious damage inside the diff. Anyone out the can give tips / ideas on whats next?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Kaleb, the diff is apart and all the spider gears seem ok? On my drive home after I broke my diff mine was doing the same thing pulling to the right as the left front continued to drive power even when 4wd was disengaged. If the diff is not apart I would put the axles in on the bench and clamp them down. Try turning the input shaft and make sure that is is actually on neutral. The way the clutch packs are in this diff they will try to spin, but a little resistance should help. Make sure the 4wd actuator has slid the engaging dog to the 2wd position. Does this make sense? -Tim
 

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Hi Tim, I'm happy to hear you are describing my issues. It should point in the right direction in the end. Diff is all apart on work bench and spider gears seems just fine. When the diff was all in one part I couldn't have the left axle freed up and actuator / engaging dog was in 2wd position. I'll try the input shaft never thought about it. Will keep posted later on.
Thanks!
 

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I tried spinning the input shaft in 2wd and that thing wont turn. Is it supposed to turn if in 2wd? That front diff I can't find anything wrong. I'm trying to find a fork shift but I doubt. Whatever I do the driver axle is always engage for some reason. I'm completely lost.
 
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