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Break in info

5074 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Hondabob, 
H
Did 35 miles today. I use lots of low range in the under 25 mph rough stuff to break in the suspension. After 25 miles 2/3rds throttle to about 6,000 rpm then a full decal a few times. 7,000 rpm is the rev limit at 54 mph. The fuel cut is smooth but detectable. The speedometer is very close to my gps within 1/2 mph. Power steering is very good even with the locker on. Decel works good down to 2 mph. The speedo does not read below 3 mph like the Rhino's. At 2 mph it goes under 2,000 rpm where the wet clutch releases and that is near the idle speed of 1,500 rpm. The take off is soft like most wet clutch UTV's but it picks up good at about 3,000 rpm. Polaris, Can-Am, Honda, and Kawasaki will all lose sales to the Wolverine. After break in my cruise speed will be about 50 mph for the short road sections between the trails. That's just above 6,000 rpm where the engine will be in the max power/torque rpm. The HP drops off near red line but the engine is still smooth and not buzzing like some of the other brands. The belt drive gears up good with a light load and backs shifts pretty good on hills or with heavy throttle.
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T
Good review from an honest owner, thanks Bob!
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Test Master
The head mechanic at my dealership has recommended that I do my first engine oil change at 10 hours and I will follow his advice. I don't know what type of oil is used at the initial fill from the factory but all my vehicles run full synthetic and have since 1993.

Starting in 2015 all Yamaha Viper snowmobiles are delivered with 0W-40 full synthetic oil. I believe corvettes are also delivered with full synthetic Mobil 1. Old school belief was run conventional oil for breakin then switch to synthetic. It appears that the Paradigm is changing, probably based on the new technologies that allow tighter manufacturing tolerances and specifications in conjunction with better oils!
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T
I change all my drive fluids at ten hours on any new atv/utv just in case there are some flaked off metal bits in there.
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H
I use full synthetic oil. It calls for 10w40. Its important to use a motorcycle oil because its also the oil for the trans. I like about 10 hours and around 150 miles. There will be lots of aluminum flakes in the oil filter but not very much after a couple of oil changes. On the race team we would always disassemble a new engine and debur all the machining and casting flash. The road race engine were assembled in a clean room and broken in on the dino. The rear dif oil will be dirty so I change that after break in too. The front dif no so much so around 1,500 miles on the front.

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Test Master
I worked 10 years in the Chrysler Mound Road Engine Plant in the 1970's, I was the quality engineer over Blocks, heads, intakes, exhaust and basically all of the cast iron parts. However, that experience does not translate well into today's engines and lubricants. Fortunately I knew engine people at Ford, GM and Chrysler and also had access to Cummings and Catapillar engines because of my work in the Defense world but that only gets you so far.

But I must say these light weight high horsepower motors are a technology all their own so it's good to get feedback from people who have been active in this world as the technology has advanced. Having that knowledge of the lineage of the development is helpful in so many ways!
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H
3
Magnetic Rear dif oil drain plug from Teryx and last one is RZR 900 both at about 500 miles.

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Hondabob said:
Did 35 miles today. I use lots of low range in the under 25 mph rough stuff to break in the suspension. After 25 miles 2/3rds throttle to about 6,000 rpm then a full decal a few times. 7,000 rpm is the rev limit at 54 mph. The fuel cut is smooth but detectable. The speedometer is very close to my gps within 1/2 mph. Power steering is very good even with the locker on. Decel works good down to 2 mph. The speedo does not read below 3 mph like the Rhino's. At 2 mph it goes under 2,000 rpm where the wet clutch releases and that is near the idle speed of 1,500 rpm. The take off is soft like most wet clutch UTV's but it picks up good at about 3,000 rpm. Polaris, Can-Am, Honda, and Kawasaki will all lose sales to the Wolverine. After break in my cruise speed will be about 50 mph for the short road sections between the trails. That's just above 6,000 rpm where the engine will be in the max power/torque rpm. The HP drops off near red line but the engine is still smooth and not buzzing like some of the other brands. The belt drive gears up good with a light load and backs shifts pretty good on hills or with heavy throttle.
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What does a "full decal a few times" mean?
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Test Master
I think it's "full throttle" as auto corrected by the software! "Full throttle a few times"
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H
Loading the engine with 1/2 throttle and 3/4 throttle to bring the rpm up to about 6,000 rpm which is about 49 mph then a decal down near idle. Theory is the minute particles that occur as the rings seat in under the throttle load go out the exhaust on decal instead of getting in between the rings and piston. Probable doesn't happen that way but it doesn't hurt to break it in that way. The important thing is no long wot driving during breakin. I go easy on it for about 200 miles and an oil and filter change before I ride the deep loose sand washes. I use low range and reverse a lot too.
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