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2021 Yamaha RMAX 2 XT-R 1000
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Took it on a long ride and it settled out and lost an inch from 46” to 45” so I got about an extra 2” of lift with the new tender springs. The ride is a lot better I feel it’s smoother across washed out roads, not as tight around sharp corners at higher speeds I might have to to do some adjustments to get it tuned in the way I ride.
Were your shocks set on soft or medium?
 
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I usually keep them on medium.
A lot of just trail riding here nothing fast most are just casual riding and mud.
 

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I usually keep them on medium.
A lot of just trail riding here nothing fast most are just casual riding and mud.
I have a few questions, did you set the preload on the adjustment ring back to the same spot?
Kenner reported less lift and said his settled a 1/2 “ after driving. A total of 1” more in the front and 1.5 in the rear!
Did you roll the machine back and forth after having it jacked up so the A arms would settle back to their natural position? I assuming you didn’t prior to using the tape and that’s why it was so high!?
When you say it’s not as tight in the corner, are you telling us there is some body roll?
 
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I have a few questions, did you set the preload on the adjustment ring back to the same spot?
Kenner reported less lift and said his settled a 1/2 “ after driving. A total of 1” more in the front and 1.5 in the rear!
Did you roll the machine back and forth after having it jacked up so the A arms would settle back to their natural position? I assuming you didn’t prior to using the tape and that’s why it was so high!?
When you say it’s not as tight in the corner, are you telling us there is some body roll?
I made a mark with a sharpee and measured with tape measure the stock position and put the preload springs back in the same spot as it came stock. Then drove it across a plowed field so it was like going over hoopties then I drove it to store and back about 3 miles there and 3 miles back.
Yes, I had a little more body roll at higher speeds on a gravel/dirt road going 40+ than with the stock springs.
 

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There real easy to adjust without any tools. I used a ratchet strap and pulled the tension down then jacked up SXS and once you get the top ring nut loose you can spin it with your hands. Then tighten the top ring nut. Real easy to adjust without tools.
 

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Lots of good theories on why they are fully compressed. Why are the front and rear different? Seems the theory of following the terrain would apply to both front and rear?
 

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There real easy to adjust without any tools. I used a ratchet strap and pulled the tension down then jacked up SXS and once you get the top ring nut loose you can spin it with your hands. Then tighten the top ring nut. Real easy to adjust without tools.
Thanks, yes I’ve already adjusted my preload twice. All it takes is jacking it up, knock the lock ring loose with a punch and then turn the whole spring by hand. The tension of the spring against the adjustment nut, turns the nut up or down. No need for spanner wrench’s!


Ordered my Bandits yesterday, just trying to figure why you and Kenner got such different numbers and why the springs settled so much after install. It’s been a common thing in the past for people to take measurements, jack up their machine, install a lift and set it down and take new measurements. The A arms are still more upright from hanging down so it looks like a bunch of lift. Then as soon as the machine moves the A arms travel outward and the whole thing goes down. The 3” gain they thought they had suddenly turns into 1.5”. I guess Ill just go through the motions myself and see what I come up with!
 

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Not sure why, I measured from the flat ground to the bottom of the fender he might have measured from a different spot. I might have more air in the tires than him. So many different parameters. I know I’ll be playing around with the more to get the right feel.
 

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Ok, I'm not the most gifted mechanical person out there, but I am having the hardest time coming up with a way to compress the springs enough to get my adjustment ring back to the same spot it was seeing that these helper springs are so much bigger than the factory ones. I have watched a couple videos on the internet showing someone using their one-piece ratchet straps that I have neer seen before to compress them and short of going out and buying -THIS-, I don't know what else to do. I need to get back to 5 & 15/16" and I'm at 4 & 1/8" and it's already tighter than you know what-lol.
 

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Ok, I'm not the most gifted mehcanical person out there, but I am having the hardest time coming up with a way to compress the springs enough to get my adjustment ring back to the same spot it was seeing that these helper springs are so much bigger than the factory ones. I have watched a couple videos on the internet showing someone using their one-piece ratchet straps that I have neer seen before to compress them and short of going out and buying -THIS-, I don't know what else to do. I need to get back to 5 & 15/16" and I'm at 4 & 1/8" and it's already tighter than you know what-lol.
Do you have it jacked up off the tires when trying to turn the adjuster? A simple spanner wrench or large channel lock pliers should turn the adjuster. All spring adjustment should be done with the tires off the ground.
 

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I went as far as flipping the shock upside-down on the machine so I could get a better grip on it. I have over an inch to go and there is no way I'm going to get there with either one without tearing up the adjustment ring pretty bad.
IMG_3996.jpg
 

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I have watched a couple videos on the internet showing someone using their one-piece ratchet straps that I have neer seen before to compress them and short of going out and buying -THIS-,
Spring compressor tool is a good thing to have in any shop. Beware though as those may be to big for your springs. I don't know, but you can rent a set for free from your local auto parts store before buying. I bought a set off Amazon or Ebay years ago designed just for ATV and UTV springs. I think they were like $25 dollars and well worth it for saving my aggravation and safety.
 

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So you are installing Bandit tender springs?
If so, there is no need to compress anything. You don’t even need to remove the shock. Only the bottom shock bolt. Back the compression nut off all the way to the top of the threads and the new longer spring for the front will slide on with the main spring and there will be slack to spare to install the retaining clip again at the bottom. Then re-install the bottom shock bolt and start adding preload back. None of the free spring measurements from the owner manual will mean anything because your add a longer front tender and a shorter rear tender. From the standard setting of OEM preload I found the front compression ring backed off 12 turns before the springs started to become loose. When I installed the spring I brought the compression nut down till the springs weren’t loose then tighten 12 turns. This put my front ride height back at the exact same spot but without the tender compressed of course. The free spring measurement was 19 1/8. OEM standard measurement was 16.5” I wanted more ride height up front so I added compression till I’m now at 17 3/4” on the front.
On the rear it’s the opposite. The new spring is shorter. It took 6 full turns for the springs to go completely slack and get a bit loose. Adding back 6 full turns from the point of contact with the springs getting snug again had the back end way to high. I ended up backing it off to zero preload. Just enough to keep the springs from being loose at full extension.
with no preload in the back and all the extra preload on the front to get to 17 3/4 I’m sitting a 1/2” higher in the rear with the weight of the cargo box and bed rails on. I also have the 1/2” thick skid plates. It will be different for everyone, you will just have to experiment to get what you desire personally.
Be sure to have the tapered ends of the two springs lined up with each other but on opposite sides. Also when checking ride height playing around, drive the car forward and back hitting the brakes both ways a couple times and the last time drive forward and stop not using the brakes. Only then will you get realistic measurements of how it’s going to sit!
Also all you need is a hammer and punch. Put a little slickem on the threads and with the shock mounted in place grab both the compression nut and spring at the same time and turn them together and the nut will just go up and down.
 

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Reading through the description on the ones at Harbor Freight, I'm pretty confident they will work as they match all the numbers I need for the specs on these springs. They even have a review from a guy that used them on the springs on his ATV and they worked perfect, so I'm thinking these will do the trick. I'll be picking them up in the morning and giving them a try tomorrow afternoon-I'll post my results and a picture of them in action if they do work.
 

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Spring compressor tool is a good thing to have in any shop. Beware though as those may be to big for your springs. I don't know, but you can rent a set for free from your local auto parts store before buying. I bought a set off Amazon or Ebay years ago designed just for ATV and UTV springs. I think they were like $25 dollars and well worth it for saving my aggravation and safety.
Yes, I got a set of those compressors and they were to big, not sure about the RMAX springs. I tried the small TUSK ones, and bent them up pretty good. Ended up using a floor jack and tie downs, ******* style.
 
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So you are installing Bandit tender springs?
If so, there is no need to compress anything. You don’t even need to remove the shock. Only the bottom shock bolt. Back the compression nut off all the way to the top of the threads and the new longer spring for the front will slide on with the main spring and there will be slack to spare to install the retaining clip again at the bottom. Then re-install the bottom shock bolt and start adding preload back. None of the free spring measurements from the owner manual will mean anything because your add a longer front tender and a shorter rear tender. From the standard setting of OEM preload I found the front compression ring backed off 12 turns before the springs started to become loose. When I installed the spring I brought the compression nut down till the springs weren’t loose then tighten 12 turns. This put my front ride height back at the exact same spot but without the tender compressed of course. The free spring measurement was 19 1/8. OEM standard measurement was 16.5” I wanted more ride height up front so I added compression till I’m now at 17 3/4” on the front.
On the rear it’s the opposite. The new spring is shorter. It took 6 full turns for the springs to go completely slack and get a bit loose. Adding back 6 full turns from the point of contact with the springs getting snug again had the back end way to high. I ended up backing it off to zero preload. Just enough to keep the springs from being loose at full extension.
with no preload in the back and all the extra preload on the front to get to 17 3/4 I’m sitting a 1/2” higher in the rear with the weight of the cargo box and bed rails on. I also have the 1/2” thick skid plates. It will be different for everyone, you will just have to experiment to get what you desire personally.
Be sure to have the tapered ends of the two springs lined up with each other but on opposite sides. Also when checking ride height playing around, drive the car forward and back hitting the brakes both ways a couple times and the last time drive forward and stop not using the brakes. Only then will you get realistic measurements of how it’s going to sit!
So, I don't NEED to bring the adjustment ring back to where it was with the factory spring? I'm really confused now as that's what I thought I was reading in earlier posts in this thread when others installed these.............
 

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Yes, I got a set of those compressors and they were to big, not sure about the RMAX springs. I tried the small TUSK ones, and bent them up pretty good. Ended up using a floor jack and tie downs, ******* style.
Hopefully people can follow Budro's advice and not even need the spring compressor tool.
 

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So, I don't NEED to bring the adjustment ring back to where it was with the factory spring? I'm really confused now as that's what I thought I was reading in earlier posts in this thread when others installed these.............
I couldn’t tell exactly what either of those two did on settings by there posts. No offense just not enough info. But if you go back to the exact spot with the adjustment ring and you’ve added a shorter spring in the rear and a longer spring in the front both with different rates than factory tenders you won’t have the same thing. It’s impossible. Not even the measurements given in the manual on total spring length when jacked up for soft standard and hard will have any meaning any more. Just back the adjustment nut off all the way, put the springs on, then set it down, move it around take ride height measurements and spend a few hours playing with it till you get it where YOU want it.
Just know it’s going to take significant preload up front and very little to none in the rear to get it balanced slightly higher in the rear.
 

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Hopefully people can follow Budro's advice and not even need the spring compressor tool.
It was actually already explained in the thread by someone before me.
Way easier to work on than my KYBs were.
It’s easy to play with the preload settings to after tapping the lock ring loose all you have to do is use a marker for a reference and turn the spring and adjustment nut together to go up and down. Really easy.
 
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I couldn’t tell exactly what either of those two did on settings by there posts. No offense just not enough info. But if you go back to the exact spot with the adjustment ring and you’ve added a shorter spring in the rear and a longer spring in the front both with different rates than factory tenders you won’t have the same thing. It’s impossible. Not even the measurements given in the manual on total spring length when jacked up for soft standard and hard will have any meaning any more. Just back the adjustment nut off all the way, put the springs on, then set it down, move it around take ride height measurements and spend a few hours playing with it till you get it where YOU want it.
Just know it’s going to take significant preload up front and very little to none in the rear to get it balanced slightly higher in the rear.
So how did they change the ride,for the better I hope?
 
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