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4 point harness

4832 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  King Kong Quisha
who has installed 4 point harness
can you add some pics just curious as to how they mount
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has anyone installed 4 point harness
3
I’m in the middle of trying to install a Tusk brand 4 point harness. I started a new thread on it yesterday. The instructions say to remove the old seat belts and use the stock attachment points. But the inside attach points, the ones against the engine cover, are not easy. I took the bracket out and found that the fittings on the Tusk won’t lay flat against the bracket and the slot Yamaha put into the bracket to hold the stock female seat belt attachment is too small for the harness fitting. Rocky Mountain ATV told me to get a longer bolt and use a stack of washers to get the harness fitting away from the bracket far enough to clear the top of the bracket. And engineer I consulted didn’t like that idea, suggesting the stresses on the bolt were unsafe. I read another thread on the subject and asked some questions at the Forum. I got good suggestions and also learned that changing brands would not solve the problem, as other brands use similar fittings. I’m attaching three photos here, but can’t control the order they appear. One shows the stock belt holder and how it fits int that stock bracket, which I removed from the Wolverine to access the stock bolt. The second shows what happens when you try to bolt the 4-point harness fitting to that bracket. The third shows where I am at now—using nuts (all new bolts and nuts shown are Grade 8) to support the longer bolt. Hope this helps By the way, the comments on that other thread I mentioned suggest I will also need to buy the nylon piece that holds the shoulder harness together behind your shoulders.
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I’m in the middle of trying to install a Tusk brand 4 point harness. I started a new thread on it yesterday. The instructions say to remove the old seat belts and use the stock attachment points. But the inside attach points, the ones against the engine cover, are not easy. I took the bracket out and found that the fittings on the Tusk won’t lay flat against the bracket and the slot Yamaha put into the bracket to hold the stock female seat belt attachment is too small for the harness fitting. Rocky Mountain ATV told me to get a longer bolt and use a stack of washers to get the harness fitting away from the bracket far enough to clear the top of the bracket. And engineer I consulted didn’t like that idea, suggesting the stresses on the bolt were unsafe. I read another thread on the subject and asked some questions at the Forum. I got good suggestions and also learned that changing brands would not solve the problem, as other brands use similar fittings. I’m attaching three photos here, but can’t control the order they appear. One shows the stock belt holder and how it fits int that stock bracket, which I removed from the Wolverine to access the stock bolt. The second shows what happens when you try to bolt the 4-point harness fitting to that bracket. The third shows where I am at now—using nuts (all new bolts and nuts shown are Grade 8) to support the longer bolt. Hope this helps By the way, the comments on that other thread I mentioned suggest I will also need to buy the nylon piece that holds the shoulder harness together behind your shoulders. View attachment 70408 View attachment 70410 View attachment 70412
how long of bolt did you go with?
I’m in the middle of trying to install a Tusk brand 4 point harness. I started a new thread on it yesterday. The instructions say to remove the old seat belts and use the stock attachment points. But the inside attach points, the ones against the engine cover, are not easy. I took the bracket out and found that the fittings on the Tusk won’t lay flat against the bracket and the slot Yamaha put into the bracket to hold the stock female seat belt attachment is too small for the harness fitting. Rocky Mountain ATV told me to get a longer bolt and use a stack of washers to get the harness fitting away from the bracket far enough to clear the top of the bracket. And engineer I consulted didn’t like that idea, suggesting the stresses on the bolt were unsafe. I read another thread on the subject and asked some questions at the Forum. I got good suggestions and also learned that changing brands would not solve the problem, as other brands use similar fittings. I’m attaching three photos here, but can’t control the order they appear. One shows the stock belt holder and how it fits int that stock bracket, which I removed from the Wolverine to access the stock bolt. The second shows what happens when you try to bolt the 4-point harness fitting to that bracket. The third shows where I am at now—using nuts (all new bolts and nuts shown are Grade 8) to support the longer bolt. Hope this helps By the way, the comments on that other thread I mentioned suggest I will also need to buy the nylon piece that holds the shoulder harness together behind your shoulders. View attachment 70408 View attachment 70410 View attachment 70412
It is difficult for me to envision your description and the install condition.. but...I agree with your buddy, do not stack washers to put the rotation forces on the bolt. Keep the plates together so the bolt stays with a 'shear' force which is like imagine cutting the bolt off at the plate with scissors not pulling it out and away with a crow bar. The longer the distance away from the plate the greater the multiplication of rotation forces. You could make you a 'link' of a solid plate to join the two brackets. think of a side plate link of a bicycle chain. Or bend the seat belt anchor plate to go in the OEM hole but without any touching of the nylon belt to get frayed. Hope that helps???
It is difficult for me to envision your description and the install condition.. but...I agree with your buddy, do not stack washers to put the rotation forces on the bolt. Keep the plates together so the bolt stays with a 'shear' force which is like imagine cutting the bolt off at the plate with scissors not pulling it out and away with a crow bar. The longer the distance away from the plate the greater the multiplication of rotation forces. You could make you a 'link' of a solid plate to join the two brackets. think of a side plate link of a bicycle chain. Or bend the seat belt anchor plate to go in the OEM hole but without any touching of the nylon belt to get frayed. Hope that helps???
Couldn’t you just bend or grind that little flange off?
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