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Plenty of things to check before blaming the wet Clutch. Does it shift normal if shut off? Does everything work right if you start it in gear?
 
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Discussion Starter #22
Bought a new one, what?
If it’s idling high, then are the sheaves turning at idle on there own?
Is it grinding when you try to put it in gear?
How many miles on it and what size tires?
Are you testing in neutral with the cover off to visually see if things are working properly after installation of the sheaves and belt?
Have you disassembled anything else in the process that would change the shifter linkage or have the throttle cable in a position where it’s pulling abnormally and revving it up?
I just don’t see the wet clutch being related to going in and out of gear at all!
New wet clutches. I already had a set in the shop so I put them in with no change. It's hard to tell but the cvt doesn't look like it's letting go enough to be put in L or H. If you cut it off and start it in gear runs fine. The idle seems to be normal rpm and no I haven't messed with anything else. I even out the messed up cvt back on and same thing. It's around 1500mi and right now has 30s on it.
 

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New wet clutches. I already had a set in the shop so I put them in with no change. It's hard to tell but the cvt doesn't look like it's letting go enough to be put in L or H. If you cut it off and start it in gear runs fine. The idle seems to be normal rpm and no I haven't messed with anything else. I even out the messed up cvt back on and same thing. It's around 1500mi and right now has 30s on it.
Are the sheaves working through the full cycle back and forth in neutral?
Did you re-install the bearing support cage while you are checking it’s proper function?
Did you happen to change belts and it is possibly the incorrect one. (To short)
Did you also service your secondary?
I have destroyed 2 belts when doing experimental stuff and when the cords were all wrapped around everything inside and bound up it did exactly what you described. I couldn’t even get it out of gear until I disassembled it!
You have got something amiss!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Are the sheaves working through the full cycle back and forth in neutral?
Did you re-install the bearing support cage while you are checking it’s proper function?
Did you happen to change belts and it is possibly the incorrect one. (To short)
Did you also service your secondary?
I have destroyed 2 belts when doing experimental stuff and when the cords were all wrapped around everything inside and bound up it did exactly what you described. I couldn’t even get it out of gear until I disassembled it!
You have got something amiss!
They appear to be but I can't be 100% certain. I will get a video of it tomorrow if I don't figure it out. I didn't mess with the secondary and the oem belt looked fine but I replaced it anyways with same result.
 

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They appear to be but I can't be 100% certain. I will get a video of it tomorrow if I don't figure it out. I didn't mess with the secondary and the oem belt looked fine but I replaced it anyways with same result.
It may not be your problem with going into gear but at least one person on this forum has swamped there CVT and not serviced the secondary. He definitely ended up tearing the whole thing down again and it was full of gunk and not working right. You may be surprised at what’s in there! I recommend doing that while your there. Especially if it hasn’t had and servicing in the past 1000 miles. Every 1500-2000 is recommended as the norm.
If your using the OEM sheave your belt should be almost to the top of the primary when it’s when it’s fully cycled while revved up. At rest the belt should be right at the top of the secondary, If it doesn’t then your secondary is gummed up.
Be sure that you don’t have a roller weight that’s fallen out of the tract in the primary as well. It’s a common error when people don’t keep pressure on the cam plate as they slide the primary on the collar. Maintain pressure until you get the spacer on and the nut snug.
 

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That black colored residue in the bottom of the secondary shouldn’t be there. That’s a bad sign. You may need new seals. You need to disassemble it and clean and re-grease it.
Also what is all that black residue at the top of your fixed primary sheave face?
If haven’t watched any step by step how to videos on the whole process then I strongly urge you to do that!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That black colored residue in the bottom of the secondary shouldn’t be there. That’s a bad sign. You may need new seals. You need to disassemble it and clean and re-grease it.
Also what is all that black residue at the top of your fixed primary sheave face?
If haven’t watched any step by step how to videos on the whole process then I strongly urge you to do that!
Belt residue. It wipes off easily. I'll take it apart in a min and clean it up. Same on the sheave face it wipes off with your thumb. I'll clean it all once it's working correctly. Right now need to figure out what's going on.

Got a link?
 

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Just google HUNTERWORKS.
you’ll find tech videos under wolverine.

Also JBS has videos.

You can google sheave service for 2016 wolverine or Viking as well

The belt residue thing strikes me as odd. I’ve never seen that in mine in 6500 miles.
 

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Also your new belt is on backwards. It really doesn’t matter which way it goes so long as you always put it back on the same direction after you break it in. Technically the arrow on the belt should be pointed the other way going in the direction that the primary turns!
 

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You have a lot of cleaning left to do. If the wet clutch is dragging and turning the sheaves I'm going to guess your idle is too high. From the looks of things probably something keeping the throttle from closing all the way.
 
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