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Discussion Starter #1
While replacing my front A arms with SuperATV high clearance A arms i found my right front wheel rocks pretty good and suspect the bearing is shot. The left front isn't really noticeable. No with the right front Yamaha (dealer) did replace the right front axel as it broke around 350 miles. How much of a pain is replacing them and do I need any special tools. Really not interested in taking back to the dealer at this point since I think they didn't tighten everything which caused the failure.

Oh and are there any better after market bearings?
 

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Its interesting the bearing that’s suspicious is on the one that had the axle replaced.
 

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I'm just guessing here...if some yahoo took the CV out with some rust on it and drove it back then it could have put stress or damage on the inner bearing race(s) and when reinstalling did not take the spindle all the way off and hammer helped it together,,,,, well maybe damaged the bearing and 150 miles later you got movement. It's what shop techs do sometimes. I knock mine out with a custom ground chisel to start and a bearing driver. Reinstall with a press and heat and frozen bearings. OEM bearings and seals are not that much more for my car and prefer them.
 
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The shop probably ran it on with an impact instead of correctly torquing that wheel bearing when they put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for the late responses. Been busy and haven't been getting notices ya'll posted.

I have ordered Pivot Works bearings instead of OEM. What I have read on here and other places is they are pretty good. Any thoughts?

I am also trying to decide on 29 or 30 inch Carnivores on 14' Bead locks since i have the extended A Arms. Anyone have any thoughts taking into consideration the extra strain that will be placed on the bearings. I already have the sheave milled and weights.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
jimclemjr

Pretty sure that is exactly what happened. The side that failed has gap between the axel and knuckle where they butt up. The other side does not. Anyone know what the torque spec is?
 

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Actually sounds like the axle might be loose. Have you looked at the axle nut? If it is not tight then that explains it and you may actually have some caliper or rotor damage. If axle nut is not where it is supposed to be with a peened nut (compare to another axle nut if in doubt), then take pictures and take back to dealer who screwed it up and get them to fix . Or continue on. The nut on Gen 1 is 253 ftlbs torque or as some say here, tho not for me personally, three ugga duggas on your favorite impact. Not recommended without serious experience.
I would not just re-tighten if loose, pull it apart and make sure there is a spacer between bearing and its not screwed up, best to replace spacer since they are not that much. Bearing discussion is a can of worms, but I am at a point where the diminish and return on seals & bearings, is the cost savings is not worth it. OEM are a good standard and set the bar. If you know what you're doing you can get some superior bearings and re-grease, etc. Some will buy all new OEM spindles with the bearings and seals and one ball joint in them and they are surprisingly not that much more from a parts place.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Actually sounds like the axle might be loose. Have you looked at the axle nut? If it is not tight then that explains it and you may actually have some caliper or rotor damage. If axle nut is not where it is supposed to be with a peened nut (compare to another axle nut if in doubt), then take pictures and take back to dealer who screwed it up and get them to fix . Or continue on. The nut on Gen 1 is 253 ftlbs torque or as some say here, tho not for me personally, three ugga duggas on your favorite impact. Not recommended without serious experience.
I would not just re-tighten if loose, pull it apart and make sure there is a spacer between bearing and its not screwed up, best to replace spacer since they are not that much. Bearing discussion is a can of worms, but I am at a point where the diminish and return on seals & bearings, is the cost savings is not worth it. OEM are a good standard and set the bar. If you know what you're doing you can get some superior bearings and re-grease, etc. Some will buy all new OEM spindles with the bearings and seals and one ball joint in them and they are surprisingly not that much more from a parts place.
Thanks for the info. I have an impact that will supposedly go up to 485 but I don't have any experience with what setting provides what torque and my torque wrench only goes to 150. Guess its time for a new tool :)

I am taking it a part to make sure nothing else is damaged
 

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Do not tighten an axle nut with an impact unless you have no other option. The axle nut sets the preload on the wheel bearings.
 
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^^^What Jra said...

Front wheel axle nut M24 2 350 N·m (35 kgf·m, 258 lb·ft)

Rear wheel axle nut M24 2 350 N·m (35 kgf·m, 258 lb·ft)

Most 1/2" torque wrenches will do 250 ft-lbs or slightly more.
 

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