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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well here I go started the build today. I started with the clutching as it is the deepest part of the machine. I got the JBS extreme clutch kit. So basically stripped out the plastics. Pulled the seats, center council, top plates that cover the seat wells, then moved the rear section of plastic up and out of the way. Next I removed the section of the seat bracket so I could remove the clutch cover. Removed the venting and pulled the cover. Removed the primary cage then the movable sheave. Opened up the clutch and and swapped over to the JBS. We went with 16gram. The new tires are 28” and weigh 56lbs a peice. Then put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next I started to tackle the spare battery mount. Just to say the Yamaha instructions are decent but not the best. The description is good but the diagrams and pictures are terrible so it takes some figuring out. So the spare battery mounts to the driver side under the seat toward the front and to the outside. So in addition To the other plastics off you have to reamove the driver side floor board to install the battery. So I mounted the bracket and the battery as below. Then I started to tear apart the firewall for wiring. That’s as far as I got tonight.
 

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Looking good. I did some HV weights in mine so the tear down on Sunday was about the same as yours - certainly not something I would want to have to do on a trail!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea definitely don’t want to do a belt change on the trail. They are confident in their clutching. Gotta love that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok finished up wiring up the second battery kit. The kit is over all great quality and everything mounts perfect with all the predrilled spots nicely. (Instructions were not great) So basically there is the transfer switch that charges the second battery when it senses the main battery is fully charged. It adds two remote terminal posts under the hood next to the switch. The posts are nice so you can hook all the accessories up there under the hood so you don’t have to route wires all the way to the second battery. The transfer switch has a red light that comes on when the second battery is getting a charge. If it senses that it can’t charge both battery’s at the same time due to a heavy draw it disconnects the second battery and sends the full charge to the main battery so you don’t loose starting and driving 12 volt. You have to run 2 battery tender wires as well as you can see one for each battery. I plan on running the radio, subwoofer, light bar, winch off the secondary battery. We will see how that goes. Here of some pics of the final product. Lots of wires everywhere.
 

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Completely stupid question, but why the second battery, I thought the Wolverine x2/4 claims to have the largest alternator in its class to run accessories - unless you have a ton of stuff you plan on running what’s the upside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Running light bar, stereo w/ subwoofer, winch, fog lights, reverse lights. Just a lot of power being used. The stator is fine it will handle it all, just nice to have a second battery and recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is the instructions for the Yamaha 2nd battery kit. I will try to do this for every mod.
 

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Oh wow, yeah nice to have 2nd battery especially if a lot of winch operation is being used as well. I haven't heard if there is a option for that kit in a Gen 1 or not. What do they charge for it anyway. I can't see it being different though as long as there is a spot to fit the battery. Even a Auto or Marine bigger battery. LOL

Looks nice, it so clean.
 

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Very nicely done.
 

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Hey OP,
I noticed you said a jbs clutch. I had 1 of those in my 09 Rhino. Are these as much of a benefit as my old one was?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok, as far as the 2nd battery kit for the gen 1 I'm not sure if Yamaha offered a factory option. Yamaha did a excellent job of pre planning for placement and fitment for the x2. It was pricy but worth the expense to have everything just right for the machine and not a full custom job. There are aftermarket companies that make "generic" kits that do the same job. You would just have to find where you would like to place everything make the wiring for the kit and install.

Second is to the clutching question. Its a touchy subject because there are so many opinions. So I will stay generic. I grew up on snowmobiles, tuning and racing them so I gained most of my clutching experience from the years of that. To sum up clutching is to ask first what you are trying to achieve. Most need clutching because of upsizing tires and adding additional rotational mass.
Keeping the clutches stock and changing "weights, springs" is like robing peter to pay paul. (your moving power around) The power stays the same your just choosing where you want it. Now to the touchy part. When you physically change the clutches is where gains or losses can be made. EX. machining sheaves, changing helix angles, going to a roller system, etc etc. Most of the time the gains are minimal but noticeable. You are limited to what can or cant be changed within reason of the machines tolerances. The choice is yours it just depends what you want to do.

Why I chose JBS, "my opinion and not looking for an argument" I believe in Yamaha's greased system it the best around and I would like to keep Yamaha's reliability W/ a greased system (JBS). JBS machining is top quality and so is Hunterworks (draw). I agree that gains W/ machining can be made in the bottom/mid and the top end is limited to the tolerances of the machine (Hunterworks). Personal opinion I prefer slugs or OD weights (JBS). Customer support is both great (draw).

The 3 biggest deciding factors were a greased system, Slugs/OD weights, and the fact Hunterworks has nothing for the X2 yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok got the stereo and the subwoofer done today. It was a long day and took me a lot longer than I thought it would. So the first thing to start was mount the head unit so drilled a 3/4 hole in the back of the cubby to run the wiring and mount. Next was to mount the over the head speakers to the cage. Routing all the wires took most of the time and that is what I did next. Then the control unit mounts behind the snorkel on the firewall and connected all the wiring. I ran the atena up the driver a polar. I didn’t run the aux. line yet as I’m waiting for placement of my ram mount for the gps and phone. Last was to run the relay off the second battery for power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
All right onto the sub woofer. This was the biggest headache and I ran in to my first couple of problems with fitment. So to start you have to remove the rear splash guard to put the sub in from the back. My first problem was when putting the peice of the seat mount back in that I reamoved to pull the clutch cover. For the life of me I could not get the holes to line up. I’d get 2 of the 3 bolts started but the 3rd would not line up no mater how I did it. So I had to do my first tweaking to the seat frame. Next was to mount the brackets to the sub box. And those would not line up so I had to enlarge the holes for that. Once I got the brackets on I could maneuver the sub in through the wheel well. I ran the positive negative right to the spare batter under the seat and the wiring to the head unit. Next was to connect the sub to the frame. The first spot was impossible you could not get a wrench on the back side due to the second battery and the way the sub box went under the frame. So in the one picture you will see where I marked the seat frame to make cutouts so I could get a wrench on the back side of the nut to secure the sub. The other two bolts were much easier. After all that it was time to test and it sounds great! On another note if you get the sub it is another thing you will have to remove to get to the clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got some more done today. First I made some changes to the subwoofer. Number 1 it rattled so it needed some rubber in between the mounts. I used thick rubber electrical isolater tape for that. Next I finished cutting the holes in the seat bracket so I could access the nuts and bolts. Painted the fresh cut stuff and changed over to stainless steel fasteners and nylon lock washers. Next was to Chang up the back mounts. It shared the bolts used to secure the back plastic wheel well. It is a pain to get the sub plus the plastic liner lined up to get the bolts started. Plus you can’t really tighten them down much because it is plastic. Also now you can remove the rear plastic to change the oil with out having the sub loosened too. So like the seat I added rubber tape and as you can see I added the stainless bolt with a nylon locker. There is a hole in the skid plat you can stick a wrench through to tighten. No more rattling and much more secure with ease to access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another stage done. I put the front factory brush guard on and installed the Warn Axon 4500 today. The winch wasn’t just bolt in. It took some tweaking but most should be able to do it. Not quite sure if the Axon 3500 bolt pattern is different than the 4500 but that is where I ran into most of the problems. First I got the Warn Axon 4500 synthetic, the Warn winch mount for the Wolverine. I did not get the specific kit from Yamaha. I removed the factory bumper and installed the Yamaha brush guard loosely as this is important later on as getting the 4500 in is really tight. Next I put the winch plate in place. (Since I didn’t get the Yamaha factory kit I needed two M8 bolts for the back of the winch plate to mount to the frame so to the hardwear I went) The plate has 2 hole patterns on it one for a standard winch and the other for the Axon. The pattern is wider for the Axon. The bumper does not have the holes drilled for the Axon pattern as it shares bolt with the winch/winch plate/bumper. So you have to mark the holes on the bumper and drill. At this time I checked for fittment as well. You have to wiggle the winch in and pull the bumper out and away to get it in with all the bolts loose but it fits. Next I found that the winch body was hitting the bumper just enough that the bolt holes would not line up. So I marked the bumper where it was hitting. So I pulled everything out. I drilled the holes in the bumper and then did some light body work on the bumper to make a indentation so the winch body wasn’t hitting the bumper. Painted up all the fresh metal and put it all back on. Next I found the bolts for mounting the winch body down we’re to short and need longer ones. So I went to the hardware again. The front bolts are the long ones, the medium sized ones are for the back and the short ones were the original that don’t work. So I started all those bolt then. (As a side note connect all your wires before installing the winch body as it is much easier to do). I went through and tightened everything. I ran the wiring up into the grill. I had to enlarge the hole under the hood to finish running the wires. I cut the wires to length and connected. I than ran the remote wire to the glove box and mounted. It also comes with a nice rocker switch which I installed as well in the dash. Lastly a small wire for a trigger source of the ignition. It’s nice not having to wire the solenoid and only run 3 wires. So the Axon 4500 does work just not a direct bolt in application.
 

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All I had time for today was the seatbelt alarm delete. Lol
Very nice! I put the same bypass on my X4. Probably one of the best mods I've done yet. LOL.
 
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