[Budro2]

I didn't know that one had to use nano rollers if going greaseless. Thanks for that. I don't have any and might get them for next service, not this one. For sure then, I can't go greaseless this go around. That narrows things down. I still need some help with how to service the roller/slider cavity. The rest I understand.

Since I'm using the stock rollers (weights), is my only option now, to buy Yamaha grease and use that, make the seal on the outside inner wall and lub up the rollers and sliders a bit? Or can I use Tinkseal with these stock OEM rollers and do the same thing instead of using grease? This is where I'm stuck and am unfortunately clueless on.

The nano rollers/weights threw a monkey wrench into my brain. But thats OK. I want to get it right and if I'm asking stupid questions or doing something wrong, I don't mind being told. I do have Tinkseal. I will have new sliders from Tinken (thanks!). A dealer is not far away and I can easily get the Yamaha grease if thats what I need this time.

Tinkseal is fine. I wouldn’t put yamalube back in there. Stock weights don’t last a long time even in grease but I’m sure they’ll make it another round.
The ceramic weights will go thousands of miles. Money well spent!
Use the original sliders you purchased this round. It won’t matter in the least with the Tinkseal keeping dust out. Save the sliders he’s sending you for when you go greaseless.

 

[Budro2]

Question. We talk about the grease in a greased primary as acting like a seal on the edge to keep dust out which seems logical, but what about the vent holes near the center. Nothing is keeping dust out of those from what I can tell. Also don't the rollers collect a dab of grease each time they move out to the edges where the grease centrifugally collects?

View attachment 110436

The rollers do collect a dab of grease at the outer edge when using grease.
The seal isn’t 100% I’m sure a fraction of dust gets in those vent holes. Bear in mind that the dust cover is covering those vent holes. That doesn’t mean no dust reaches them but dust has to go through the small center hole in the cover and then back under the cover to enter those holes. It’s also continually contaminating the grease at the outer edge. This is why servicing needs to be done sooner with grease vs greaseless. Going greaseless means you’re not too concerned about the duration of the primary. You’re pushing how far you can go between service intervals with the secondary.
I use grease (actually TS not grease) in the primary. It will need to be serviced before the secondary would need it, do to the dust contamination factor.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Question. We talk about the grease in a greased primary as acting like a seal on the edge to keep dust out which seems logical, but what about the vent holes near the center. Nothing is keeping dust out of those from what I can tell. Also don't the rollers collect a dab of grease each time they move out to the edges where the grease centrifugally collects?

Think about it.
It's a vent, air comes in behind the rollers so any dirt is not in the path as the rollers move outwards.
As the sheave collapses, the air is forced back out those holes taking any possible debris with it, also aiding in keeping the path of the rollers clean.
It's all in my thread I believe

Now when I didn't have enough grease to make a seal, air would exit the path of least resistance which wouldn't force the debris to go with it or leave it in the rollers path.

 

[bluet]

Oh man thank you all! What an awesome place this is. Pretty confident I can do it now with all the guidance comments and videos. its a relief for sure. I'll ask about weights at a later date to get ready for round 2.

 

[TINKEN]

I plan to install the same OEM weights I took out so won't be any nano on those.

Um.. wait, what? You are going to re-use your oem weights?

I am not sure I understood what you said. If you are going to stick with OEM weights, go buy new ones. If you pop a weight cover because you wore it too thin, it could cost you a lot more than a set of weights. These cvt's are very inexpensive compared to the other brands. And I make them even less expensive to maintain.

 

[TINKEN]

Tinkseal is fine. I wouldn’t put yamalube back in there. Stock weights don’t last a long time even in grease but I’m sure they’ll make it another round.
The ceramic weights will go thousands of miles. Money well spent!
Use the original sliders you purchased this round. It won’t matter in the least with the Tinkseal keeping dust out. Save the sliders he’s sending you for when you go greaseless.

 

[bluet]

Um.. wait, what? You are going to re-use your oem weights?

Just heard of these nano/ceramic weights in the last few days. This is all news to me. Don't have any.

My 2020 X2 had 13,400 km on it. Shame on me, but I never once looked at the sheaves. Never had a problem with it. Well, about 12,800 km, I noticed couldn't get up to 90 km/hr but only about 80 so it was in need of service at that point. Traded it in after warranty covered airbox separation so never did get into the CVT.

I plan to get these new weights after what I've just learned. But knowing how long my 2020 lasted, wasn't worried about using my OEM ones until next service. Maybe I should just get them now while its all apart on the bench. Those new sliders and slippery washers are coming, thank you very much. I'm still in no rush to get it back together as I can't get back on the trails for at least 3 weeks.

If I was to get new weights now, I know zip about them. Need help. My riding style is usually slow ... not a speed demon if that matters. Putt around, camera in tow, documenting local nature for citizen science. Retired old dude.

Thanks for all the help!!