[DirtRoadWarrior]

Greaseless only applies to the primary sheave in the roller cavity. So originally before the RMAX, Hunterworks sold a primary sheave that had the dry lube applied to the entire inside of the sheave. Weller Racing does not support greaseless in the primary and thus no coating and Hunterworks is slowly moving away from Yamaha clutching and has never made an RMAX sheave.

I WISH UTVEngineering made a spray that I could coat the inside of my RMAX sheave and cam plate with because it greatly reduces dust build up. The HV rollers have the dry lube coating applied and that transfers to the roller channels, but I still prefered to have BOTH the rollers and sheave treated.

I am not personally convinced that the dry lube transference from the rollers to the roller channel is as good as having the roller channel treated directly, but that's why my nickname is 'MassiveOverkill'

I smear a light coating of TS in my roller channels and then treat it like a wax. I'll spray the other areas inside my sheave with Liquid Wrench's dry lube with Cerflon (no this is not as good as Tinkseal).

This what my anal-retentive nature has to do. I respect Weller Racing's decision not to support greaseless simply because all it takes is a few slow speed riders in dusty conditions to complain about chirping belts and why take the risk?

I'm running greaseless on a new Weller Racing sheave (DRY) and UTV 22g weights with 5th Gen sliders. Just did a 10 mile romp and everything seems fine. Doing a 100 miler this weekend. News @11.

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

Took the primary apart. Whoa grease! Question about greaseless ... Assume that has nothing to do with secondary but all to do with primary. Can someone please define 'greaseless'? Does that mean no grease around weights and/or sliders? Or does it mean just a little tinkseal like in Massive's videos? Maybe the latter is semi-greaseless?

Secondary all looks good to me. I see now what those slippery washers will do ... stop any binding or friction on the spring ends and spring cups ... thanks for suggesting those and especially sending them Mr. @TINKEN , along with sliders!

View attachment 110384 View attachment 110385

Here's what my Primary looked like when I opened it up.

Seems mine had a lot less OEM grease than yours...

 

[Copper730]

There is a huge difference between the sliders you have and the new Gen 6. They are a whole different part.

I just purchased the sliders and slippery washers a few weeks ago. I'm assuming they are the older generation. Do I need to get new ones? I finished servicing my primary and am starting my secondary tomorrow.

Without this forum and the how-to videos and write-ups, I never would have had the courage to tear into my machine. Now I complete all the service myself. A big thank you to everyone!

 

[bluet]

Seems mine had a lot less OEM grease than yours...

For sure! I did follow your sheave thread ... lots of good stuff in there

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

For sure! I did follow your sheave thread ... lots of good stuff in there

Yep. The Wolverine Forum Team is AWESOME!

 

[TINKEN]

Haha -, that is a ton of grease! Is that factory???

I do not recommend any TinkSeal on your weights or sliders if you are going greaseless. The weights and sliders have so much nano on them, it's ridiculous. Do we really need a spray? No.

 

[TINKEN]

Do I need to get new ones?

No -

Gen 6 and 7 are almost identical. Gen 7 is still in testing. You can get them next time you service.

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

No -

Gen 6 and 7 are almost identical. Gen 7 is still in testing. You can get them next time you service.

Are you working on a Weight/Slider set for the RMAX for exclusive use in "Sport" Mode? Crazy Old Guys like me, need to know.

 

[bluet]

Greaseless only applies to the primary sheave in the roller cavity. So originally before the RMAX, Hunterworks sold a primary sheave that had the dry lube applied to the entire inside of the sheave. Weller Racing does not support greaseless in the primary and thus no coating and Hunterworks is slowly moving away from Yamaha clutching and has never made an RMAX sheave.

I WISH UTVEngineering made a spray that I could coat the inside of my RMAX sheave and cam plate with because it greatly reduces dust build up. The HV rollers have the dry lube coating applied and that transfers to the roller channels, but I still prefered to have BOTH the rollers and sheave treated.

I am not personally convinced that the dry lube transference from the rollers to the roller channel is as good as having the roller channel treated directly, but that's why my nickname is 'MassiveOverkill'

I smear a light coating of TS in my roller channels and then treat it like a wax. I'll spray the other areas inside my sheave with Liquid Wrench's dry lube with Cerflon (no this is not as good as Tinkseal).

This what my anal-retentive nature has to do. I respect Weller Racing's decision not to support greaseless simply because all it takes is a few slow speed riders in dusty conditions to complain about chirping belts and why take the risk?

Thanks ... I wasn't exactly sure about that. The primary service is confusing for me this 1st go around. I have more I'm not sure about.

 

[DirtRoadWarrior]

Thanks ... I wasn't exactly sure about that. The primary service is confusing for me this 1st go around. I have more I'm not sure about.

There are a lot of "Personal" preferences baked in on "how do to it". My first attempt was nerve racking simply because I wasn't sure I wanted to do "or needed to do" what someone else "Preferred". So I Kept It Simple Stupid "KISS" by going greaseless. I could always put grease in it if I wasn't happy. But, I'm pretty sure I'll be happy without the grease. Old School methods are great, but trusting the Engineering is key...

 

[bluet]

Haha -, that is a ton of grease! Is that factory???

I do not recommend any TinkSeal on your weights or sliders if you are going greaseless. The weights and sliders have so much nano on them, it's ridiculous. Do we really need a spray? No.

Yes thats factory. First time I've ever looked at sheaves, was normal far as I knew. Haven't clean it up yet.
I plan to install the same OEM weights I took out so won't be any nano on those. After reading and watching and all, my plan was to use some tinkseal on outer perimeter of sliders in the housing and smear a bit where the weights go. Does that make sense?

 

[bluet]

There are a lot of "Personal" preferences baked in on "how do to it". My first attempt was nerve racking simply because I wasn't sure I wanted to do "or needed to do" what someone else "Preferred". So I Kept It Simple Stupid "KISS" by going greaseless. I could always put grease in it if I wasn't happy. But, I'm pretty sure I'll be happy without the grease. Old School methods are great, but trusting the Engineering is key...

You must be reading my mind ... except not sure about the greaseless part at all. You are right ... lots of bits and pieces spread about. Best part is I'm in no rush ... can't ride for weeks until snow melts.

 

[Copper730]

No -

Gen 6 and 7 are almost identical. Gen 7 is still in testing. You can get them next time you service.

Great thank you.

 

[Copper730]

Yep. The Wolverine Forum Team is AWESOME!

I agree!

 

[Budro2]

One thing we’re learning in all these sheave threads is that it’s better to service early. You never know what your gonna get! Some secondary’s under greased some primary’s over greased, kinda like some differentials being only half full etc.

If your going greaseless then order some weights. You can’t run stock weights greaseless. They will self destruct in very little time.

As MO said greaseless just means no grease in the roller channels and around the sliders. You still have to grease the center of the primary so that the collar and wipe seals are lubricated as the sheave goes back and forth.
Opinions will vary but personally I wouldn’t put even a smidge of grease in there on rollers or anything if your going greaseless. All it will do is attract dust to stick to.
IMO use zero grease or the recommended amount of grease. If you look at the pic of DRWs sheave, there is a perfect seal of grease around the outer edge of the inner primary where typically there is a gap. That grease seals out the dust from getting inside. That’s it’s primary function!
UTV ENGINEERING products don’t need any grease for lubrication. If you do so, dust will still enter the primary since your not using the recommended amount and the coating of grease will be counter productive when the dust gets on it!

 

[bluet]

One thing we’re learning in all these sheave threads is that it’s better to service early. You never know what your gonna get! Some secondary’s under greased some primary’s over greased, kinda like some differentials being only half full etc.

If your going greaseless then order some weights. You can’t run stock weights greaseless. They will self destruct in very little time.

As MO said greaseless just means no grease in the roller channels and around the sliders. You still have to grease the center of the primary so that the collar and wipe seals are lubricated as the sheave goes back and forth.
Opinions will vary but personally I wouldn’t put even a smidge of grease in there on rollers or anything if your going greaseless. All it will do is attract dust to stick to.
IMO use zero grease or the recommended amount of grease. If you look at the pic of DRWs sheave, there is a perfect seal of grease around the outer edge of the inner primary where typically there is a gap. That grease seals out the dust from getting inside. That’s it’s primary function!
UTV ENGINEERING products don’t need any grease for lubrication. If you do so, dust will still enter the primary since your not using the recommended amount and the coating of grease will be counter productive when the dust gets on it!

Thanks for this. I still need to ask ... I think you are saying ... akkkk I'll try to let that sink in for the night, tomorrow is another day, 9:30pm here zzzzzzzz

 

[bluet]

I didn't know that one had to use nano rollers if going greaseless. Thanks for that. I don't have any and might get them for next service, not this one. For sure then, I can't go greaseless this go around. That narrows things down. I still need some help with how to service the roller/slider cavity. The rest I understand.

Since I'm using the stock rollers (weights), is my only option now, to buy Yamaha grease and use that, make the seal on the outside inner wall and lub up the rollers and sliders a bit? Or can I use Tinkseal with these stock OEM rollers and do the same thing instead of using grease? This is where I'm stuck and am unfortunately clueless on.

The nano rollers/weights threw a monkey wrench into my brain. But thats OK. I want to get it right and if I'm asking stupid questions or doing something wrong, I don't mind being told. I do have Tinkseal. I will have new sliders from Tinken (thanks!). A dealer is not far away and I can easily get the Yamaha grease if thats what I need this time.

 

[SKELLEY521]

Yamalube Polyurea Grease is what some use since Ultramatic Grease was discontinued.

I've ran Straight Tinkseal and currently running a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 CM-W & Tinkseal.

My mix has been in there for 2 years and still going strong.
I like a NLGI grade 1 for winter riding and general riding overall.
Tinkseal is also a NLGI grade 1

My lube thread....Link

 

[bluet]

Yamalube Polyurea Grease is what some use since Ultramatic Grease was discontinued.

I've ran Straight Tinkseal and currently running a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 CM-W & Tinkseal.

My mix has been in there for 2 years and still going strong.
I like a NLGI grade 1 for winter riding and general riding overall.
Tinkseal is also a NLGI grade 1

My lube thread....Link

Thanks much! Just to verify ... straight tinkseal or your mix above are with OEM rollers? Not nano coated aftermarket ones? Thats my main concern.
I read the 1st 2 pages of your link. Good info, thanks! I'll read the rest tomorrow.

 

[B52U]

Question. We talk about the grease in a greased primary as acting like a seal on the edge to keep dust out which seems logical, but what about the vent holes near the center. Nothing is keeping dust out of those from what I can tell. Also don't the rollers collect a dab of grease each time they move out to the edges where the grease centrifugally collects?