[bluet]

I'm just a few hundred clicks away from 2500km service. The back roads have turned to mud and trails too deep in snow so may as well get at it now. Hopefully all goes well. Removed some obstacles yesterday ... lots of room to get at it now.

I have one question. I do have new Primary Sheave sliders ... the ones with an 'I" on one side. I DON'T have the tool to install them. Do I need that tool or can one get by without it? I see in another post @TINKEN mentioned this: "By Yamaha design, the camplate slider must seat 1mm past the outer edge of the steel camplate. This is simple to do with the slider tool."

 

[Budro2]

I'm just a few hundred clicks away from 2500km service. The back roads have turned to mud and trails too deep in snow so may as well get at it now. Hopefully all goes well. Removed some obstacles yesterday ... lots of room to get at it now.

I have one question. I do have new Primary Sheave sliders ... the ones with an 'I" on one side. I DON'T have the tool to install them. Do I need that tool or can one get by without it? I see in another post @TINKEN mentioned this: "By Yamaha design, the camplate slider must seat 1mm past the outer edge of the steel camplate. This is simple to do with the slider tool."
View attachment 110345
View attachment 110346

Just use a blunt object like a 1/4” thick piece of wood that’s square on the end to push them in. Don’t compress them with your fingers. You’ll be fine.

 

[bluet]

Just use a blunt object like a 1/4” thick piece of wood that’s square on the end to push them in. Don’t compress them with your fingers. You’ll be fine.

Great ... thanks!

 

[TINKEN]

If you haven't used the sliders in the above image yet, don't install them. I will send you brand new up to date sliders and the tool to install them. Message me with your address and I will make it happen.

 

[bluet]

f you haven't used the sliders in the above image yet, don't install them. I will send you brand new up to date sliders and the tool to install them. Message me with your address and I will make it happen.

Wow thanks! That would be awesome. Gives me lots of time to read up and watch all the videos a few more times. Took both primary and secondary out on the bench today but haven't taken apart yet. I have everything else I need pretty sure ... tinkseal, o-rings seals, the homemade tool worked great ... saved a few popsicle sticks.

 

[TINKEN]

You will need secondary slippery washers, especially for that vehicle.

 

[TINKEN]

There is a huge difference between the sliders you have and the new Gen 6. They are a whole different part.

 

[bluet]

You will need secondary slippery washers, especially for that vehicle.

I don't know anything about these slippery washers. Are they something from the dealer or aftermarket?

There is a huge difference between the sliders you have and the new Gen 6. They are a whole different part.

Thanks for alerting and sendfing them. Much appreciated!

 

[TINKEN]

I dropped a set of slippery carbon fiber washers in your package. Follow instructions.

 

[bluet]

Alrighty will do ... thank you much!

 

[B52U]

TINKEN is awesome!

 

[DLX2]

Karma bluet!
Your kindness has rewarded you.

 

[TINKEN]

I appreciate the praise, but I am just treating you as friends, not a number.

 

[TINKEN]

I just completed Gen 7 of the RMAX/X2 slider. It is still in AutoCad. Nothing wrong with previous versions. I am an engineer and I like changing things. lol

 

[MNWOLVERINE20]

I just completed Gen 7 of the RMAX/X2 slider. It is still in AutoCad. Nothing wrong with previous versions. I am an engineer and I like changing things. lol

As a machinist/programmer, I get tired of making the same parts over and over again each time the boss makes a tweak/revision when the old one worked just fine haha. I do fully understand why though, The Best Never Rest!

 

[TINKEN]

All my employees are engineers and I am the one pumping the brakes usually. My Gen 1 sliders were barely worn at 2000 miles. And they were 3D printed. The new Gen5+ are totally different with solid welded cores. Basically injection molding with a 3D printed mold. It allows me to do rapid prototype without the $10,000 mold.

 

[bluet]

Took the primary apart. Whoa grease! Question about greaseless ... Assume that has nothing to do with secondary but all to do with primary. Can someone please define 'greaseless'? Does that mean no grease around weights and/or sliders? Or does it mean just a little tinkseal like in Massive's videos? Maybe the latter is semi-greaseless?

Secondary all looks good to me. I see now what those slippery washers will do ... stop any binding or friction on the spring ends and spring cups ... thanks for suggesting those and especially sending them Mr. @TINKEN , along with sliders!

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Took the primary apart. Whoa grease! Question about greaseless ... Assume that has nothing to do with secondary but all to do with primary. Can someone please define 'greaseless'? Does that mean no grease around weights and/or sliders? Or does it mean just a little tinkseal like in Massive's videos? Maybe the latter is semi-greaseless?

Secondary all looks good to me. I see now what those slippery washers will do ... stop any binding or friction on the spring ends and spring cups ... thanks for suggesting those and especially sending them Mr. @TINKEN , along with sliders!

View attachment 110384 View attachment 110385

Greaseless only applies to the primary sheave in the roller cavity. So originally before the RMAX, Hunterworks sold a primary sheave that had the dry lube applied to the entire inside of the sheave. Weller Racing does not support greaseless in the primary and thus no coating and Hunterworks is slowly moving away from Yamaha clutching and has never made an RMAX sheave.

I WISH UTVEngineering made a spray that I could coat the inside of my RMAX sheave and cam plate with because it greatly reduces dust build up. The HV rollers have the dry lube coating applied and that transfers to the roller channels, but I still prefered to have BOTH the rollers and sheave treated.

I am not personally convinced that the dry lube transference from the rollers to the roller channel is as good as having the roller channel treated directly, but that's why my nickname is 'MassiveOverkill'

I smear a light coating of TS in my roller channels and then treat it like a wax. I'll spray the other areas inside my sheave with Liquid Wrench's dry lube with Cerflon (no this is not as good as Tinkseal).

This what my anal-retentive nature has to do. I respect Weller Racing's decision not to support greaseless simply because all it takes is a few slow speed riders in dusty conditions to complain about chirping belts and why take the risk?

 

[dano626]

Where does one get these slippery washers? Getting ready to do my Secondary soon.... Thanks!!

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Where does one get these slippery washers? Getting ready to do my Secondary soon.... Thanks!!

Slippery Washers for Yamaha Secondary Sheaves | UTVengineering

Our newly redesigned slippery thrust washers for Yamaha secondary sheaves. New 3 piece Carbon Fiber/Steel design! Improves clutch efficiencyImproves accelerationImproves back shiftingPrevents Spring BindFits all Rhino's 660, 700 First Gen VehiclesFits Yamaha Grizzly, Kodiak, Vikings and...

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