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Not Talked About Maintenance

This is a discussion on Not Talked About Maintenance within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; We all know the big maintenance tickets Such as oil changes, filter Cleaning, greasing and say valves. What about the Small things you have done ...

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  • 1 Post By TRev
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Thread: Not Talked About Maintenance

  1. #1
    Turbo
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    Not Talked About Maintenance

    We all know the big maintenance tickets Such as oil changes, filter Cleaning, greasing and say valves.
    What about the Small things you have done that really help or you think most might over look.

    I for one noticed a huge difference in pedal feel when I started to lube the accelerator pedal cable and break pedal assembly

    Anyone else discover Lil maintenance items that help the Wolverine?
    MrDwig likes this.

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    Lead Super Moderator MORSNO's Avatar
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    Great thread idea TRev. My Wolverine has nowhere near the mileage/use of many on here, but on my Grizzly's I've only had to do a few minimal extras. Most have been just re-tightening things like exhaust connections/shields, replacing those cheesy plastic bullet pin/screws, and lubing cables. Hopefully many more chime in with specifics, but a few that come to mind are checking the seat belt bracket bolts and re-securing vent lines.
    2016 Alpine White Wolverine R-Spec SE
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    It seems very few owners check their Toe-in. For the new 4 wheelers I've had and now the Wolverine, I've never had a new one where the toe-in was set any where near what the specs. call for it to be. The toe-in for the Wolverine is 0.20" - 0.59" of Toe-in; mine from the factory was at 1.375" of Toe-in and it was not really very obvious just looking at it.

    I double checked my measurements when I first checked it because I thought it was hard to believe it was that far out of factory specs. and not be obvious looking at it or feel it in the way it drove. I checked it with only 16 easy miles on it.

    Ended up setting mine to 0.125" of Toe-in, only because I like it to be as close to 0" as possible but definitely not any Toe-out.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 07-03-2016 at 01:04 PM.
    MORSNO and k7iou1 like this.
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    Super Moderator FordTruckMan's Avatar
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    I'll second the cable lubing. I always try to keep on top of that from my experiences with manual shift sport bikes and clutch cables getting hung up lol. I also adjusted the free play in the throttle cable, because from the factory it felt like I was pushing my foot to china before the throttle even engaged. Now I can just ease into the throttle nice and smooth right from the top. I have not adjusted my toe, but I can tell just by looking at it that it's way more than factory spec. I like the way it handles though so I haven't changed it. The wheel returns to center quite nicely and it holds such a great straight line at speed.

    I also added an inline filter and an extension tube on the rear differential vent and the gas tank vent, routing both tubes up to the throttle body area. I did this after checking my rear diff fluid and finding it milky and brown, even though the hose was still tied up to the frame in the factory location. I added self tapping sheetmetal screws to the plastic guards inside the front wheel wells that mount on the fire wall. They were vibrating at road speed because they didn't have enough connection points. The screws fixed that. I think that's all I can think of for now in this category lol. Great thread idea BTW.
    MORSNO and Scurvy like this.

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    How did you lube the accelerator pedal and break pedal exactly? I know this is an older thread but I just came across it and was curious to any maintenance I can do on my 2017 r-spec. Thanks very much!
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    Speaking of tow, my Rhino’s rear tires are high out / low in. I guess there are some bushings that are worn out. I’m really bad about preventive maintainence. It’s in the shop now need to have it looked at.

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    when new as possible, remove muffler spark arrestor bolts, apply anti-seize and reinstall with proper torque. If they get loose, excuse me, WHEN they get loose the exhaust will wear out the gasket and it is almost $20. If you can get the bolts out without stripping them.
    k7iou1 likes this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveD View Post
    How did you lube the accelerator pedal and break pedal exactly? I know this is an older thread but I just came across it and was curious to any maintenance I can do on my 2017 r-spec. Thanks very much!
    If you are referring to my post about the cables being lubed, I use Lubriplate cable lubricant. It's an aerosol spray lube. Usually I will soak the strands of the the cable with it and work it in and out of the cable sheath. If there is enough room to get the straw from the can in there, I try to shoot the spray down inside the cable sheath. Doing this prevents the cable from rusting or corroding over time in my experience. I do the same thing on the throttle cables on lawn mowers, tractors, etc. It also doesn't hurt to spray any pivot points with the lube. Some say that dust will collect on the lube, but I have never had it cause more trouble than not lubricating in the first place.
    DaveD and Doc T like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    It seems very few owners check their Toe-in. For the new 4 wheelers I've had and now the Wolverine, I've never had a new one where the toe-in was set any where near what the specs. call for it to be. The toe-in for the Wolverine is 0.20" - 0.59" of Toe-in; mine from the factory was at 1.375" of Toe-in and it was not really very obvious just looking at it.

    I double checked my measurements when I first checked it because I thought it was hard to believe it was that far out of factory specs. and not be obvious looking at it or feel it in the way it drove. I checked it with only 16 easy miles on it.

    Ended up setting mine to 0.125" of Toe-in, only because I like it to be as close to 0" as possible but definitely not any Toe-out.
    I would add, when you adjust your toe-in have a full tank of gas and add weight in the vehicle to approximate weight of gear and passengers. If you adjust on a empty vehicle and then add yourself, a passenger and gear it just changed.
    jimclemjr likes this.
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    After loosing most of the bolts holding the seat backs in place in the first 50 miles, I suggest removing the seats early on and putting loctite on the seatback bolts!

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