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Overheating

This is a discussion on Overheating within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Using an Ohm meter check the hot wire from the relay to the cooling fan connector for an open circuit. Next check the ground wire ...

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  1. #11
    Moon Shiner Yamahopper's Avatar
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    Using an Ohm meter check the hot wire from the relay to the cooling fan connector for an open circuit. Next check the ground wire for a good ground.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    Start with the simple trouble shooting things first.

    1. Verify new fan is working. Since it sounds like you already have it installed, disconnect both (+) and (-) connections going to fan, and use additional wire and run (+) wire from fan to straight to battery and do the same for the (-) wire, then just by touching the (-) wire to the battery see if fan comes on, let fan run for a couple of minutes and see if wires get hot, shouldn't. You now know new fan is good.

    2. Pull fuse and check with Ohm meter to verify it is good.

    3. Jumper across sending unit (thermo-electric switch) that triggers fan to come on and see if fan comes on, if it does then you most likely have bad sending unit.

    4. If fan didn't come on in step 3, then use volt meter and test for 12v going in to relay, then check for 12v coming out of relay, still with sending unit jumped across terminals. Machine does not have to be running, just key on.

    5. With electrical connections at fan disconnected, check for short in system with Ohm meter. Check for continuity between (+) wire to ground - (should not have continuity). Do this with jumper wire on sending unit.

    6. Check for continuity at the connector going to fan, in both the (+) wire (connector to relay and relay to battery) and (-) wire going to battery. You could have a wire pulled loose or broken.

    One of these steps will identify the problem.

    On the OEM fan if you reach up in the passenger side front wheel well (using flashlight to see), with key off, and spin the fan by hand a good fan will spin with no resistance and spin very very freely, make no noise, feel very smooth to rotate, and if you spin it reasonably hard by hand it will take several seconds (say 10 seconds or more) to come to a slow stop. If there is any rough feeling in turning the fan blade by hand or if the fan blade stops rotating in just a few seconds (say 3-5 seconds) then the fan is bad. The number of seconds I mention is not a hard and fast rule, I'm just using some reasonable ballpark numbers as examples.

    Let us know what you find out the culprit is.
    To check fuse best to do it with the power on and fuse in place. Every fuse has bare metal test tabs on the top of it for testing power in and out. Pulling it and using a ohm tester is kinda a waste of time. Turn on the key and see if there is power coming in one side and leaving out the other side with a meter set for voltage testing. Better to invest in a 12 volt test probe light.
    Tripplec and atkbike like this.

  3. #13
    Supernova Tripplec's Avatar
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    As I understand it, you'd have to applied the 12V directly to the fan power plug where nothing else (switch, sensor etc) is in the circuit. If it spins like crazy (should free spin with engine off and flicking with your figure) its good.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    As I understand it, you'd have to applied the 12V directly to the fan power plug where nothing else (switch, sensor etc) is in the circuit. If it spins like crazy (should free spin with engine off and flicking with your figure) its good.
    Be carfull flicking with your finger. I did that and sliced it good.
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  6. #15
    Supernova Tripplec's Avatar
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    I read that long ago, your post no doubt. I guess I am flicking it pretty good, my pinky is still in tact and happy. LOL
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  7. #16
    Lightning kdt1970's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    I read that long ago, your post no doubt. I guess I am flicking it pretty good, my pinky is still in tact and happy. LOL
    I must have been the lucky one with razors as fan blades. Good thing I switched to the HW's assembly.
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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdt1970 View Post
    Be carfull flicking with your finger. I did that and sliced it good.
    I found that out also. Now I have the HW fan.
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    2016 yamaha wolverine r spec. Overheat, hot on one side and cold the other side or the rad. On the cap side the hose is hot and the hose on passenger side is not hot.
    We road for two hours, filled up with gas and 1 mile from the gas station the R Spec started overheating.

  10. #19
    Lightning kdt1970's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JrFromTn View Post
    2016 yamaha wolverine r spec. Overheat, hot on one side and cold the other side or the rad. On the cap side the hose is hot and the hose on passenger side is not hot.
    We road for two hours, filled up with gas and 1 mile from the gas station the R Spec started overheating.
    Either your radiator is clogged internally or your water pump is not working. There is the possibility of a large air bubble in the line on the cold side.
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  11. #20
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    With radiator cap off at temperature, you should be able to see the coolant flow in the radiator neck if pump is working. No flow when cold.
    blast likes this.
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