1" wheel spacers and Negative Camber
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1" wheel spacers and Negative Camber

This is a discussion on 1" wheel spacers and Negative Camber within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; I put on 1" wheel spacers about 3 months ago. Wondering if anybody would know if that would cause a Negative Camber. The insides of ...

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Thread: 1" wheel spacers and Negative Camber

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    Pit Stop Kapper's Avatar
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    1" wheel spacers and Negative Camber

    I put on 1" wheel spacers about 3 months ago. Wondering if anybody would know if that would cause a Negative Camber. The insides of my front tires
    are about 3/8" wore down more than the middle and outside.

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    Lead Super Moderator MORSNO's Avatar
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    I would just check your alignment and adjust as needed, most are off when delivered anyways.
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    What is the best method for checking / adjusting alignment?

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    Pit Stop Kapper's Avatar
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    one guy said to stiffen shocks to offset the difference, but I think I will check the alignment first, your saying they are maybe toed out?

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    Cannon Ball jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Wheel spacers will not affect the camber. That is an angle that is based on the geometry pf the components. It will however magnify the issues as the tires are further out from the centerline where the geometry starts. I would guess that the toe-in/toe-out would be more affected and that will show more tire wear as you described. ie. if you set your toe-in to be 1/8' for 26" OEM tires and then put 30" tires on it the toe-in may be 1/2" (just guessing).
    You must be driving a lot of roads and what kind of tires? If you notice it wanting to dart a little from one side to the other, and easy to steer it's probably too much toe-out. If it tracks well and seems a little tighter to steer it is probably too much toe-in.
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    There are several ways to check alignment. The easiest that I've found so far is the "string method." It will work with stock or oversize tires. Essentially, you run a string from the back of the machine forward at hub height so that it runs exactly parallel to the rear rim measured at the rear wheel's leading and trailing edges. Run it all the way forward, still at hub height, beyond the front of the machine. I use jack stands to anchor the string. Now measure the distances of the front rim - leading and trailing edges - to the string. If the measurement from the leading edge to the string is greater than the trailing edge then you are towed in and vice versa. I find that a slight tow out works for me, YMMV. It is very quick and easy and, for an offroad machine, every effective. Make sure that your tires are all at the pressures you want them. It doesn't matter that the front tires and the rear tires are at different pressures, just that each axle is the same. Side to side pressure differences can induce dynamic forces that mimic alignment issues but aren't. When I first received my X2 it pulled hard to one side and the steering was numb. A few minutes with the string and it was a whole new machine.
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    Pit Stop Kapper's Avatar
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    I have 27” terrabites, yes a lot of road riding. I checked my front alignment and I am 3/4” more at the back of the front tire than the front of the front tire. Probably need to get closer but would that wear the inside of my tires?

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    Cannon Ball jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kapper View Post
    I have 27” terrabites, yes a lot of road riding. I checked my front alignment and I am 3/4” more at the back of the front tire than the front of the front tire. Probably need to get closer but would that wear the inside of my tires?
    No offense but the question is not very succinct but my stab at it is -----That means you have a 3/4" toe-in and yes it will wear the inside of the tires because the inside of the tires are scrubbing rather than rolling. To see the difference. put it in neutral and push it on a flat concrete area. Set the toe-in to 1/8" and then push it on the same area and you will probably notice the difference of energy required, if not it was a little bit of exercise you probably needed lol. If they are that much out spend some extra time to make sure the tires are aligned with the frame for good parallel trueness with rear tires. Theoretically you can adjust one tire to get the toe-in even, but the car will not be running true and parallel with rear tires. Either parallel the fronts with the frame, or the rear tires. You will know you are close if you get someone to help you measure the centerline of fornt to rear hubs on each side. If same dimension you are OK. Hard to actually measure hubs but same relative points on the wheels is good. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by jimclemjr; 08-12-2019 at 09:36 PM.
    Doc T likes this.
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    Definitely change your Toe-in as jimclemjr already said. I like mine to be as close to 0" of toe-in as possible, but definitely not Toed-out. Each 1/4 turn of both tie-rods is approximately 3/16" of change. So for you to be at 0" of toe-in it will take about 1 full turn of the left and right tie-rod.
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    Thanks for the input, I'll take some pictures of how I am aligning, straighten the tires/wheels as straight as possible, put 60" straight edge on the outside of each tire/Wheel,
    measure front of the tire, meausure back of the tire. I did this morning, more like 1/2" toe in. I will be able to adjust later this morning. I'll keep u up to date. Thanks for the great input!
    Budro2 likes this.

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