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PC-V install tips?

This is a discussion on PC-V install tips? within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Originally Posted by ErikTheRed So today I finally got the Wolverine all back together after the PC-V install and all the other crap I did ...

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Thread: PC-V install tips?

  1. #31
    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRed View Post
    So today I finally got the Wolverine all back together after the PC-V install and all the other crap I did while it was apart (blocked AIS hose, LED light bar, interior light, lighted whip, and all the associated switches and relays and such).


    With the PC-V installed and the AIS blocked, the exhaust still glows, but I think less so than before. Having no previous experience with this device, perhaps my expectation of NO red glow is unreasonable, but I must admit after the work and expense of installing the unit, it is an unsatisfying feeling to look under the bed and still see that damn exhaust pipe glowing red at all. And as I saw mentioned in another thread elsewhere on this forum, there really is no way to assure the unit is performing as its supposed to. I guess you just gotta have faith and believe that it is.
    Well there is a way..... get a bung, weld it in your exhaust pipe, install a sensor and an air/fuel ratio gauge. Get educated on air fuel ratios. Ride, read, record and hook up programmer to computer and do a map. Ride, read, record and hook up programmer to computer and adjust the map. Ride, read, record and hook up programmer to computer and adjust the map. And probably you have it at the desired settings across the band. Or repeat. Or you can install the AFR gauge permanent and stay constantly in tune to it and watch it change some based on elevation, air filter condition, injector condition and air temperature some. But some programmers have multiple programs that you can have different maps for a given condition. And you can make your own maps in those conditions to switch to. Some use a AFR sniffer in the pipe to read AFR to set the map. But hard to hold a sniffer at vehicle speed. The map anybody would offer is a start, based on certain parameters and expectations and surely is offered that way as a basic starting point or base line, every engine is different. Most tuners would tell you to get it dialed in perfectly they need the vehicle and want it on a dyno and if you ride at a different elevation than the dyno, it still is gonna change what they did.

    Another cheaper and easier way to get an indication of the way it is internally performing is to do some basic sparkplug reading. The heat on the plug tip before and after the programmer install should give you a clue. I would suggest you pull the plug before install of programmer and save it as is, do a weekend ride with new programmer, pull the plug and compare it to the original plug. There are multiple resources on web to get an education on plug readings to see how hot it is and the completeness of the combustion. And btw use the same gas and make sure air filter is clean. Enjoy.
    erik likes this.
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  2. #32
    Supporting Vendor Hunterworks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclemjr View Post
    Well there is a way..... get a bung, weld it in your exhaust pipe, install a sensor and an air/fuel ratio gauge. Get educated on air fuel ratios. Ride, read, record and hook up programmer to computer and do a map. Ride, read, record and hook up programmer to computer and adjust the map. Ride, read, record and hook up programmer to computer and adjust the map. And probably you have it at the desired settings across the band. Or repeat. Or you can install the AFR gauge permanent and stay constantly in tune to it and watch it change some based on elevation, air filter condition, injector condition and air temperature some. But some programmers have multiple programs that you can have different maps for a given condition. And you can make your own maps in those conditions to switch to. Some use a AFR sniffer in the pipe to read AFR to set the map. But hard to hold a sniffer at vehicle speed. The map anybody would offer is a start, based on certain parameters and expectations and surely is offered that way as a basic starting point or base line, every engine is different. Most tuners would tell you to get it dialed in perfectly they need the vehicle and want it on a dyno and if you ride at a different elevation than the dyno, it still is gonna change what they did.

    Another cheaper and easier way to get an indication of the way it is internally performing is to do some basic sparkplug reading. The heat on the plug tip before and after the programmer install should give you a clue. I would suggest you pull the plug before install of programmer and save it as is, do a weekend ride with new programmer, pull the plug and compare it to the original plug. There are multiple resources on web to get an education on plug readings to see how hot it is and the completeness of the combustion. And btw use the same gas and make sure air filter is clean. Enjoy.

    Much easier method, buy the autotuner AT-200 from dynojet plug it in to pcv and weld in the bung and sensor included, turn the autotuner on in the PCV software and let it fix it all the time

    that is why I used to make the map that is in it now.

    Well really the easiest is to run it, map is made and after hundreds no issues with fuel maps

    Todd
    erik likes this.
    Todd Eldridge
    Hunterworks Inc
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    601-771-0070

  3. #33
    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Forgot about the Autotuner, that would make it much simpler and it adjusts on the fly, works just like most automobile systems. Guess it depends on how you like to play and how much tinkering you want to do lol.
    erik likes this.
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  5. #34
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    Dynojet Autotune is very popular with the mountain snowmobile guys due to the massive elevation changes they deal with all day in the mountains, it works great. I had a PC-V on my Polaris Rocky Mountain King sled, it took a beating and was constantly covered with deep powder that melted and never failed. They are potted units so the only area that could be affected by being submerged are the electrical connections which can be covered with heat shrink pretty easy.
    jimclemjr and Budro2 like this.
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  6. #35
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    Todd-- I hope I didn't miscommunicate my post, and/or I hope you didn't misinterpret it. You (Hunterworks) advertise and sell the Dynojet Power Commander 5 as a tuning device to help fix the too-lean factory condition. You are VERY clear to not misrepresent the device as a "performace enhancer", and that was quite clear to me when I bought it. I have nothing but respect for the honest way you've always represented the product to everyone. I guess the purpose of my post was twofold- one, to report that the PC-V is installed and the Wolverine is running just dandy. I have no real comparison or any history with it so I wasn't completely sure what to expect for a glowing exhaust, I was just HOPING (again, perhaps foolishly) that I wouldn't see any red glow. I was also sure to point out that according to my recollection, the exhaust does seem to be glowing much less intensly than before so the PC-V must be doing something good. Secondly, the post was my sneaky ninja-like method to encourage others who have the PC-V installed on their machines to report on what amount of glow they see in their exhaust after the install. Without digging back through countless postings I seem to recall some others claiming that they saw NO red glow after the install. Whether or not those reports are entirely accurate, who knows. But I was kinda hoping to be one of em LOL. I am not unsatisfied at all with the purchase, because even if the results are not overwhelmingly visually conspicuous, I feel better knowing the PC-V is helping my engine survive a longer life. At this point Im a happy Hunterworks customer.

    Regarding the lights on the unit, you mentioned that "no lights when runnning is normal". The green light on my unit comes on when the key is on, and when the engine is running, and it does not turn off until I turn the key off. If no lights is normal, whats going on with mine? Im gonna go out and check it again right now but as of yersterday's maiden post-install fire-up, the green light came on and stayed on.
    Last edited by ErikTheRed; 07-23-2019 at 03:06 AM. Reason: spelling

  7. #36
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    Yessir, the green light definately stays on. When I turn on the key, the two lights (red and green) flash alternately for about 2 seconds, then the green "power" light stays on steady, even after engine is started, until the key is shut off. The two lights are marked "power" (green) and "status" (red). Since the green light is just the power light, are you sure its not supposed to stay on? Seems like it should to let you know the unit is powered up and working.

  8. #37
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    I'll have to double check on what lights stay on, but I noticed no more glowing exhaust. With that said I don't do a lot of extended night rides these days, so perhaps it's just significantly less noticeable.
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  9. #38
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    I have to ask a question. Given its been bugging me for far too long.

    All this talk about running LEAN and all this talk about AIS to burn off excess gas injecting air into the glowing exhaust pipe.

    So if there is too much gas coming out of the engine. Does that not imply its running Rich and Not Lean!!!

    Hence being setup on the leaner side by Yamaha conversely implies there is little left that requires burning off in the exhaust.

    I my mind bothe of the above terms contradict the other.

    I also did ask my dealer while it was under warranty about those issues and hot pipe and for the 2017 he said Yamaha has address those issues and nothing needs to be done. The pipe maybe different metal and ECU may have different parameters now.
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  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRed View Post
    Yessir, the green light definately stays on. When I turn on the key, the two lights (red and green) flash alternately for about 2 seconds, then the green "power" light stays on steady, even after engine is started, until the key is shut off. The two lights are marked "power" (green) and "status" (red). Since the green light is just the power light, are you sure its not supposed to stay on? Seems like it should to let you know the unit is powered up and working.
    According to what mine does, yours is operating normal!
    Green light stays on!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    I have to ask a question. Given its been bugging me for far too long.

    All this talk about running LEAN and all this talk about AIS to burn off excess gas injecting air into the glowing exhaust pipe.

    So if there is too much gas coming out of the engine. Does that not imply its running Rich and Not Lean!!!

    Hence being setup on the leaner side by Yamaha conversely implies there is little left that requires burning off in the exhaust.

    I my mind bothe of the above terms contradict the other.

    I also did ask my dealer while it was under warranty about those issues and hot pipe and for the 2017 he said Yamaha has address those issues and nothing needs to be done. The pipe maybe different metal and ECU may have different parameters now.
    Im not positive but I've read elsewhere that the Yamaha (and every other gas-powered machine in the country) is tuned lean to satify EPA emissions requirements. Some more than others depending on the emissions testing. In some states, such as the Democrat-owned communist rat-hole Commiefornia where I unfortunately reside, CARB (Califonia Air Resource Board) runs a HUGE pay-to-play "climate change" scam and the requirements are even stricter than EPA. I mean for God's sake, I had to drive to Reno, NV to purchase my riding lawnmower because the mower I wanted isn't CARB-approved!!! (Which only means the manufacturer didn't shell out enough pay-off cash to buy the right from the democrats to sell the model in CA)
    Budro2 likes this.

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