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My WV/VA trip

This is a discussion on My WV/VA trip within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Originally Posted by Atcdan13 I’m betting I’ve pushed that machine to the brink of what it was designed to be able to handle if not ...

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Thread: My WV/VA trip

  1. #21
    Lead Super Moderator MORSNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    I’m betting I’ve pushed that machine to the brink of what it was designed to be able to handle if not slightly more factoring in my mods. I did discover that I have a leak at the rear diff once I got home. I think it’s where the driveshaft goes into the rear diff. That should be ab adventure to repair.
    You ride hard, but you also take care of your rig! That rear seal has leaked on others also, you can find a few threads on here with pointers for replacing it.
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  2. #22
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    Before you go to the trouble of getting it fixed, first disconnect the vent line at the diff. and blow air through the line, then disconnect the fill plug and blow air through the little metal tube attachment point, back into the diff., then change the diff. fluid. I like Amsoil Gear Lube.

    When I first got my Wolverine it had a slight seep coming out of the drive shaft at the front of the diff. Changed to Amsoil and it quit for 1,600 miles. Just recently with about 1,700 miles since I had put the Amsoil Gear Lube in it, it started dripping slightly out of the rubber dust cap around the drive shaft next to the front of the diff. This time it was a good bit more than the original seep I had. I just recently changed the diff. oil again and blew air through both directions as I mentioned above. So far riding it around the yard a good bit it, it has not dripped anymore. I won't know if this stopped it for sure, until a couple of weeks from now when I plan to go ride for 3 days.

    That rear diff. gets so hot that it could be possible that the heat is making the gear lube loose some of it viscosity over time and lets it leak easier. Gear Lube is designed to work in some pretty extreme hot temperatures, but I have to believe it would affect it's normal life span. With more aggressive and off camber riding it would be easy to get gear oil splashed up into the vent line and it would not take much at all to puddle in the low spot of the vent line and the pressure required to push it up and out the vent tube could be more pressure than is needed to push the gear oil pass the seal on the diff.'s front drive shaft when the oil is at it's hottest and thinnest. Not saying this is your cause for the leak, but you did have it laid over on it's side and some pretty steep grades. $15 for 1 qt. of Amsoil Synthetic 80w-90 Gear Lube is cheap compared to taking everything apart to replace the front seal. 1 qt. will do both the front and rear diffs.

    This last time I was curious to see if the number of ozs. the Service Manual states to use in both the front (6.08 ozs. = 0.19 US qt.) and rear diffs. (21.76 ozs. = 0.68 US qt.) was the same as what it actually took to fill it to the brim of the filler screw, so I carefully measured the exact number of ozs. I put in, both the front and rear diff. The front was spot on taking 6 ozs., but the rear took 23 ozs. which is just a little under what the Service Manual states is required after being disassembled, but more than the 21.76 ozs. stated for just a change.

    As I have discussed in another thread, I just got through replacing a rear axle and when you remove the rear axle you loose about 4 ozs. of gear oil.

    Edit: After thinking more about blowing air through the vent line, in addition to this it would be even better to blow air through it and remove the line and lay it overnight in such a way where any oil that would not blow out due to it being cold and thicker would flow out the end of the vent tube. It would be impossible to completely clean 100% of the oil out of the line just by blowing air through it and it would not take much at all (overtime) draining back down from both ends of the vent tube, to the low spot on the frame, and block the tiny I.D. of the vent tube, thus still making the diff. seal leak.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 05-25-2019 at 09:00 AM.
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  3. #23
    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Morsno, I try to maintain it pretty well. I think I like working on it as much as I like riding it. Papa, I’ll check that out. I suspect the seal though based on these pics. It’s a good bit of oil. Hopefully it’s not something worse. I haven’t had a chance to clean it real good from my trip yet. Life keeps getting in my way.
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  5. #24
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    Yea, that is a lot of oil. Mine is no where near that much.

    When mine first started leaking again a few weeks ago, I thought well maybe it was overfilled. That was what got me to wondering if what the Service Manual stated for the number of ozs. to fill it with was what it actually took to fill it to the brim of the filler screw hole. So I ran it about 30 minutes around the yard and then opened the fill screw (with the differential hot) and about 2-3 ozs. of oil immediately ran out, when the oil gets hot it does a whole lot of expanding and I didn't get the diff. near as hot as it would normally get from an all day ride.

    I would still thoroughly check the vent line (blow it out / let it drain out overnight to get that last little drop that could run down in the low part of the vent line) after having laid it over on it's side.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
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  6. #25
    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    That’s a good point. I didn’t think about the tip over having an impact on it but they could be related for sure.
    2016 Rspec. Probably everything EMP makes. Throttlemax pedal
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    2" Perfex lift. Superwinch Terra 45 synthetic. JBS radiator guards
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    Power Commander. YXZ Wheel. Chupacabra side mirrors
    Hunterworks green spring, 16gr weights, Sheave and slug kit
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    Dan, any update on your differential oil leak?

    After my 3 day ride last week my differential continued to leak. Not near as much as yours appear to be from your pictures, but enough I am going to have to do something about it. Mine is only dripping from under the rubber dust cap (so then it slings off from rotating), no oil leaking back at the front face of the differential housing, just from the back edge of the rubber dust cap around the shaft.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
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  8. #27
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    I would hope pressure could move any debris in the vent hose, pop it off or swell it up rather than develop enough to violate the seals. I expect the seals would need a lot of pressure to pass gear oil.

    My Kingquad 700 diffs did not have a vent line to breath. The used an accordion bladder on the vent which expanded and contracted as required. |No water got in either since it was a closed system. It likely can be put on these if needed.
    Last edited by Tripplec; 06-11-2019 at 10:41 AM.
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  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    I would hope pressure could move any debris in the vent hose, pop it off or swell it up rather than develop enough to violate the seals. I expect the seals would need a lot of pressure to pass gear oil.
    I'm sure what your saying would be true if we left the vent line down low at the gas tank, but a lot of us (including myself) have re-routed the vent line running it almost straight up and in to the vertical frame tubing and in doing so we have made the vent line require more pressure to clear itself of any oil that may have gotten in the vent line.

    When the gear oil gets up to around 170+ deg. F. it gets very thin and it may be possible for it to be easily splashed in the vent tube port on the differential, or when going down a very steep hill the gear oil may be almost up to the vent line port due to the angle, just speculating here since I have no proof to back it up, but possible. Also when the gear oil is hot and thin it is easily moved with little pressure but once the oil in the vent line were to accumulate/pool down in the lower curved part of the vent line, down next to the skid plate, it is going to cool off considerably and be much thicker than the hot gear gear oil at the shaft seal, and require more pressure to push out the cool gear oil to clear the vent line. I question in this type of scenario if the front differential shaft seal (that has quite a few miles on it) could prevent the 170+ deg. F. thin gear oil from leaking past the shaft seal before it could build up enough pressure to push out the much cooler and thicker gear oil pooled in the vent line down at the skid plate, since in my case the vent line then runs straight up about 2 ft.?

    The rear diff. gear oil does a lot of expanding going from ambient temperature to normal operating temperature (looks to be somewhere around 170 deg. F.). This last time when mine starting leaking, I topped off the gear oil (with diff. cold) to the bottom of the fill hole, then drove it for about 30 minutes around the yard to heat the gear oil up and immediately removed the bolt in the gear oil filler hole and at least 1+ ozs. of gear oil ran out. I did not get the rear differential nearly has hot as it would get in a normal day of riding. With this much expansion of the gear oil the inside of the differential has to build up quite a bit of pressure if the vent line is blocked. I'm using "quite of bit of pressure" as being relative to the ambient pressure, where just 1-2 lbs. of pressure is probably more than the front shaft seal can prevent hot gear oil from leaking past it. If someone really wants to get technical with it, the amount of head pressure required to make the gear oil rise 2 feet in the vent line could be calculated.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 06-11-2019 at 12:58 PM.
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    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

  10. #29
    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    I haven’t had a chance to look at it. I recently bought a house with my dad to flip that takes up all my time and the wolvy just sits in the garage still dripping. I washed it off real good and it appears that it is coming directly from that seal. Pretty substantial puddle after washing it. I’m certain there is very little oil left in the diff. Hopefully I can take it apart some in a few weeks.
    2016 Rspec. Probably everything EMP makes. Throttlemax pedal
    28x10x14 ITP Blackwaters 14" ITP Hurricane's, Spare tire
    2" Perfex lift. Superwinch Terra 45 synthetic. JBS radiator guards
    TGM/Konstruktor doors. Lots of lighting. Turn Signals. Horn
    Power Commander. YXZ Wheel. Chupacabra side mirrors
    Hunterworks green spring, 16gr weights, Sheave and slug kit
    HMF Titan QS. FDI concepts headlights/halos/ Factor55 ultrahook.

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