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Removing front spindle sucks

This is a discussion on Removing front spindle sucks within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; I needed to do a left front wheel bearing. Seems pretty straight forward right? I thought so too. What a giant pain in the ass ...

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    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Removing front spindle sucks

    I needed to do a left front wheel bearing. Seems pretty straight forward right? I thought so too. What a giant pain in the ass it is to get the ball joints free of the spindle and the lower control arm. I realize they are tapered but wow did that take some effort. Of course, somehow in the process I inadvertently nicked the boot on the upper ball joint and now need to replace the joint. Getting it out was just a few pops with the hammer. We’ll see how pressing it in goes when it arrives. Anyway, just a mild rant there to make me feel better. I’ve done just about every kind of maintenance and mod to my machine yet somehow this one simple task kicked my butt. Thanks for listening. Ha.
    MORSNO likes this.
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    Sunday Driver
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    Well, that sucks balls.....sorry to hear that.
    I had to rip my front end apart last week and was spared any of the hassle you had. Everything popped apart, no ball joint separator tool required for tie rod, lower or upper control arm, just had to keep castellated nut on a few threads and give a tap with a weighted mallet.
    Perhaps because mine has only seen one year's use?

    Better luck on the re-install.
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    Many years ago an old mechanic taught me a trick of popping ball joints. Maybe you do this but for those less skilled I will share. Never hit the threaded shaft of a ball joint, you can run the castle nut to the end of threads and tap it a couple times and it may seperate but if not a really tight tapered shaft. Think about squeezing a grape between your thumb and index finger, when you squeeze hard it pops out. Undo the ball joint nut to the bottom of the threads. Put a large, 6 to 8 lb hammer or anvil or any significant weight, firmly up against one side of the spindle where the ball joint is. ( I have an old 8 lb splitting maul that I like as sometimes I can use the blade edge against the spindle easier) On the other side hit it sharply with a two or three pound hammer. Some times it helps to have an assistant to hold the dead hammer against the spindle while you do the hitting. It should separate in two or three good licks. Do the bottom joint first, so the top is helped with spring pressure and then the top, as the dead weight of spindle will work a little in your favor. I have used this technique on everything from ATVs to 3/4 ton trucks and it has never failed me. If it does not work for you, I proposed you're not hitting it right. You have to depress the metal spindle to squirt the tapered ball joint shaft out.
    Oh yea, grease or anti-seize the ball joint shaft to make next time easier.
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    Sux, I thought it was odd that the old warriors could only buy the entire A arm loaded with wear items. I guess it is easier than replacing every single component.

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    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Jim, I did something similar to finally get it out. The top came out relatively easily but the bottom did not want to give up. Good idea on the never seize.
    2016 Rspec. Probably everything EMP makes. Throttlemax pedal
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    2" Perfex lift. Superwinch Terra 45 synthetic. JBS radiator guards
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    Years ago I ran into a similar problem on my Grizzly 700. One of the front ball joints just would not come out. I beat on it until I was fed up with it, read everything on suggestions and nothing worked. I forget if it was the lower or upper but which ever it was there was not really enough room to get a good square blow on it due to the shape of the spindle. I finally took just the hub/spindle and a-arm to the local Yamaha dealer and they said just use a hammer, I said ok, can I watch you do it? They could not get it, so then they tried to use a press and with a couple of failed attepts, I stopped them because they were fixing to destroy my hub. Took the hub and arm to a local well experienced auto mechanic and he used an air hammer with a chisel point so he could pin point where he wanted to hit it and it popped right out without damaging anything.

    After that I bought the 3/4" ball joint separator ($19.99) from Harbor Freight and it makes the job so simple. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html The 3/4" separator is small enough that it will go in our small hubs and not tear the boots, if you watch what your doing. Best money ever spent if your removing the ball joints.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; Today at 07:01 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    We’ll see how pressing it in goes when it arrives.
    Maybe you didn't literally mean pressing it in with a press, but just in case and for other's reading, don't use a press to install it, just use the castle nut to tighten/press it back into it's pocket.

    I would put a very thin coating of waterproof grease on both the spindle and ball joint contact surfaces instead of an anti-seize compound because a lot of those have copper in them and even though the copper particles are only nanometers in size the Morse Taper is a perfect fit and you want all anti-rust lubricant to essentially be squeezed out. I am sure a lot of people use anti-seize without problems, but that's just me, I want to minimize potential problems.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; Today at 07:41 AM.
    Budro2 and jimclemjr like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    I needed to do a left front wheel bearing. Seems pretty straight forward right? I thought so too. What a giant pain in the ass it is to get the ball joints free of the spindle and the lower control arm. I realize they are tapered but wow did that take some effort. Of course, somehow in the process I inadvertently nicked the boot on the upper ball joint and now need to replace the joint. Getting it out was just a few pops with the hammer. We’ll see how pressing it in goes when it arrives. Anyway, just a mild rant there to make me feel better. I’ve done just about every kind of maintenance and mod to my machine yet somehow this one simple task kicked my butt. Thanks for listening. Ha.
    Dan I’m curious, did you have the shock off before trying to knock it apart?
    Just last night I took mine apart for a boot fix. I’ve had this one apart 3 time prior and once very recently. It was a bugger and never has been before. I ended up damaging the grease boot on the lower ball joint with the dead blow hammer and had to order a new one.
    After reading jimclemjr s post the thought occurred to me that I usually knock those loose while the shock is on keeping everything solid but last night I took it off and I wasn’t getting the energy I need from the hammer as it would move!
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    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    We’ll see how pressing it in goes when it arrives.
    Maybe you didn't literally mean pressing it in with a press, but just in case and for other's reading, don't use a press to install it, just use the castle nut to tighten/press it back into it's pocket.
    Right, I will use the castle nut to get it back in the spindle. I meant press the ball joint into the upper control arm. I accidentally tore the boot on the upper ball joint so I’m replacing it with a new one. It popped out of the upper arm with a hammer but I’d imagine a ball joint press is the safest way to get the new one back in the arm.
    2016 Rspec. Probably everything EMP makes. Throttlemax pedal
    28x10x14 ITP Blackwaters 14" ITP Hurricane's, Spare tire
    2" Perfex lift. Superwinch Terra 45 synthetic. JBS radiator guards
    TGM/Konstruktor doors. Lots of lighting. Turn Signals. Horn
    Power Commander. YXZ Wheel. Chupacabra side mirrors
    Hunterworks green spring, 16gr weights, Sheave and slug kit
    HMF Titan QS. FDI concepts headlights/halos/ Factor55 ultrahook.

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    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budro2 View Post
    [

    Dan I’m curious, did you have the shock off before trying to knock it apart?
    No, I left the shock attached. I didn’t see any reason to pull it off. I think they were just so tight in there from 3 years of hard riding. That’s how I tore my boot as well but it was on the upper one unfortunately. The new joint should be here tomorrow. I’m cutting it close too because we are rolling out Friday morning at 6am for WV.
    2016 Rspec. Probably everything EMP makes. Throttlemax pedal
    28x10x14 ITP Blackwaters 14" ITP Hurricane's, Spare tire
    2" Perfex lift. Superwinch Terra 45 synthetic. JBS radiator guards
    TGM/Konstruktor doors. Lots of lighting. Turn Signals. Horn
    Power Commander. YXZ Wheel. Chupacabra side mirrors
    Hunterworks green spring, 16gr weights, Sheave and slug kit
    HMF Titan QS. FDI concepts headlights/halos/ Factor55 ultrahook.

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