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Removing front spindle sucks

This is a discussion on Removing front spindle sucks within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Originally Posted by Atcdan13 No, I left the shock attached. I didn’t see any reason to pull it off. I think they were just so ...

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Thread: Removing front spindle sucks

  1. #11
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    No, I left the shock attached. I didn’t see any reason to pull it off. I think they were just so tight in there from 3 years of hard riding. That’s how I tore my boot as well but it was on the upper one unfortunately. The new joint should be here tomorrow. I’m cutting it close too because we are rolling out Friday morning at 6am for WV.
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  2. #12
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    The $20 ball joint separator saves a lot of headaches and makes it a simple 1 person job. The hammer method doesn't always work when a little rust has developed over several years and for those up North where salt/brime is used the problem is greatly magnified if the machine is used on the roads. I too, use to use the hammer method until my one bad experience. The ball joint separator puts the force perfectly inline with the ball joint (any sideways pressing and they just will not come out - the fit is so exacting). Even using the Harbor Freight ball joint separator I have tightened it as tight has I thought I should and the ball joint would not pop out and in that case if you pop the spindle (ping it) with a hammer while the ball joint separator is tightened then the ball joint will pop right out.

    I used to do underwater dive work and replaced a lot of props on 30 ft. to 60 ft. boats/cruisers and some of those props were a royal pain to get off. Are put on just like a ball joint taper, only difference is you definitely have to use a prop puller when underwater and I have had to put 2 prop pullers on the same shaft/prop and still bent the puller using such a long cheater bar for leverage.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 05-14-2019 at 08:32 AM.
    Budro2 likes this.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    Right, I will use the castle nut to get it back in the spindle. I meant press the ball joint into the upper control arm. I accidentally tore the boot on the upper ball joint so I’m replacing it with a new one. It popped out of the upper arm with a hammer but I’d imagine a ball joint press is the safest way to get the new one back in the arm.
    If you don't have a hydraulic press to put the ball joint back in the upper arm, then putting the ball joint in a deep freeze (down to about 0 degrees) for overnight or as long as you can will help a lot, I have installed them this way fairly easily using just a hammer and the correct size socket on the top of the ball joint (don't get to carried away tapping it in), before I got a hydraulic press. Be sure to grease the mating surfaces and be sure to have everything ready so the ball joint doesn't start to warm up to much.
    Budro2 likes this.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
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    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
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  5. #14
    Cannon Ball jimclemjr's Avatar
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    For the record haha- I do have a wedge separator that I use sometimes and I have taken a grinding wheel and file to it at the edges to help eliminate any boot pinching. I will use it if I know that I am replacing the joints as it is easier.
    PapaS makes good point about anti-seize compound. I do use an aluminum base that is rated for marine use and all engine parts and believe it or not it has some copper in it. And we all know that copper and aluminum do not play well together so the way they mix it with lubricants and such makes me comfortable with it as opposed to just grease. Have never had a bad result.
    Budro2 likes this.
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