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Crank Case Cover Damaged From Belt

This is a discussion on Crank Case Cover Damaged From Belt within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; All I'm saying is if there is slack in the belt (video) there is 1 way of getting the sheaves to tighten the belt up ...

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Thread: Crank Case Cover Damaged From Belt

  1. #101
    Mountaineer noload's Avatar
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    All I'm saying is if there is slack in the belt (video) there is 1 way of getting the sheaves to tighten the belt up again; by spinning them, most of us probably spun them by hand when we've assembled them, or you can do it with the engine, what I was addressing is the jerking of the belt slack being taken up under load and slamming the components OR spinning the sheaves without load to get the belt right again by doing it with the transmission in neutral. I would think there would be less rubbing with transmission in neutral and noload on the belt than trying to turn wheels, but thats just a guess.
    AKHUNTER likes this.
    2016 708 R Spec
    Hunterworks sheave 18gr rollers .75 shim, factory spring

  2. #102
    Hog Chaser
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    Quote Originally Posted by noload View Post
    All I'm saying is if there is slack in the belt (video) there is 1 way of getting the sheaves to tighten the belt up again; by spinning them, most of us probably spun them by hand when we've assembled them, or you can do it with the engine, what I was addressing is the jerking of the belt slack being taken up under load and slamming the components OR spinning the sheaves without load to get the belt right again by doing it with the transmission in neutral. I would think there would be less rubbing with transmission in neutral and noload on the belt than trying to turn wheels, but thats just a guess.
    That sounds reasonable....it may still rub, but less severe. I really don't want to be tearing into this thing very often, ugh. I might try it w/o the shim and try some of these techniques. Thanks for the tips.
    2016 R-Spec
    HW Sheave kit, 16 gr, purple spring, slippery washers
    PCV
    AIS block off
    2" Perfex lift
    30x10-12 Blackwater Evo's on ITP wheels, 1" spacer in rear
    DIY Radiator mud guards
    DIY fender flares
    Warn 3500 winch
    HW 2R exhaust tip with silencer mod/cutout

  3. #103
    Mountaineer noload's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKHUNTER View Post
    That sounds reasonable....it may still rub, but less severe. I really don't want to be tearing into this thing very often, ugh. I might try it w/o the shim and try some of these techniques. Thanks for the tips.
    Have you been into yours since your mods? Have you seen any rubbing in your cover?
    2016 708 R Spec
    Hunterworks sheave 18gr rollers .75 shim, factory spring

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  5. #104
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKHUNTER View Post
    That sounds reasonable....it may still rub, but less severe. I really don't want to be tearing into this thing very often, ugh. I might try it w/o the shim and try some of these techniques. Thanks for the tips.
    I have a hunch that a good portion of your rubbing is just the slack with the belt barking. If you can eliminate that by changing driving style, ease into throttle starting out, ease off throttle stopping, along with no shim possibly you’ll get some decent miles on it. One thing that will tell you a lot that I’ve learned is to pull your console once in awhile under normal cruising and feel the cover. It should just be warm. Then do the same thing after your in those heavy load situations and feel the difference. If it’s still not much hotter then your doing good. If your getting contact it will be hot as hell and I could usually detect an oder!
    Paint your cover at the contact point so you can see if it even brushes next time too!
    Last edited by Budro2; 05-15-2019 at 09:35 PM.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, 1mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

  6. #105
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noload View Post
    Have you been into yours since your mods? Have you seen any rubbing in your cover?
    Is this ? For me or AKHUNTER?
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, 1mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

  7. #106
    Hog Chaser
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    Quote Originally Posted by noload View Post
    Have you been into yours since your mods? Have you seen any rubbing in your cover?
    I posted some pics of the cover rubbing on the previous page. The clutch seup has been in for about 500 miles of which about 200 miles were with 28" Zillas and 300 miles with 30" Blackwaters. I didn't notice any issues with the Zillas, but I wasn't using it in the snow or muddy conditions as much I have with the 30" either.

    I took a sanding wheel to the cover where the belt was rubbing and removed some material, smoothed it out with scotchbrite, and painted it.

    I just measured the width of the belt and it is 1.3" wide. Min specs. say 1.28". How wide is a new belt? It's the original belt and has ~700 miles on it. Factory Yamaha beltts appear to be ~$140, ouch! What do you think replace it or run it and if so with what belt?
    Last edited by AKHUNTER; 05-15-2019 at 10:13 PM.
    Budro2 likes this.
    2016 R-Spec
    HW Sheave kit, 16 gr, purple spring, slippery washers
    PCV
    AIS block off
    2" Perfex lift
    30x10-12 Blackwater Evo's on ITP wheels, 1" spacer in rear
    DIY Radiator mud guards
    DIY fender flares
    Warn 3500 winch
    HW 2R exhaust tip with silencer mod/cutout

  8. #107
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    Unfortunately I’ve never put a micrometer on an OEM belt. I have a new Hunterworks belt that measures 33.33 mm which converts to 1.31. A new gates belt is listed as the top width at 1.344. Hunterworks recommends changing one while your in there at 1000 miles. It seems your on the fence. It certainly has some life in it and I don’t see enough damage on it that concerned me but I would consider that the more wear it gets the more likely you’ll get cover contact. Personally I’d change it and save that one as a spare.
    Don’t feel to bad I paid 220 at my dealer in a bind on time for my last belt.
    Only use the OEM belt with the machined sheave!
    Last edited by Budro2; 05-15-2019 at 10:42 PM.
    AKHUNTER likes this.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, 1mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

  9. #108
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    I learned a couple different things the past few days regarding belt slack while playing with various secondary springs!
    I have a purple, green, and stock spring. I just put 700 miles on with the green and 16 with no issues and the CVT acting perfect. No lurching or barking, and I’ve never really had that anyway. While testing to see how each would accelerate and backshift with 16gr weights I had the cover off and started playing with the hard brake and sure enough got slack in the belt. Then if I got on the gas quick it would dang sure lurch a bit and once in awhile chirp. If I got on the gas easy starting out as I always do as a habit till things are rolling I wouldn’t even notice it but the slack was there. I then was curious so started letting the CVT cylcle up a bit and then just rolling to a stop. Foot off the brake and throttle! In the beginning over about a 3 day period of messing around 1/2 the time the secondary would take up all the slack and about 1/2 the time it wouldn’t quite get there. Then just before it would come to a stop the primary would pop as it released from the belt pressure and resume neutral position and the belt would go slack. All this was on level ground! At first it made me think ahah if I use the stiffer spring this won’t happen, so back and fourth I’d tested. As I tested I found one spring was no worse than the other and the condition kept getting worse. The little roads I was on we’re either gravel or dirt so dust was a factor and the CVT was exposed to it. Finally I thought, well I’ll clean and re-grease both sheaves. I did and I can roll to a stop with all 3 springs and the secondary closes all the way each time and takes up the slack. I can apply a very hard brake,( not sliding the tires) and it comes very close to closing all the way and it’s not enough slack to ever get a lurch or chirp. I don’t think any of this was happening prior to my testing in dusty conditions as I never once felt it before having the cover off. I only bring it up because if your getting it a lot, possibly you just need to service your sheaves! When I did clean and re-grease it sure didn’t appear visually that it needed it!
    Another interesting thing is prior to servicing, green and stock springs were starting to up shift when I hit 4 mph and held it consistently. Purple was starting to upshift between 3-4 mph. After servicing, all three won’t upshift till I’m at 5 mph in low and hold it at 5 for a few seconds so in general between 5-6 mph and this is consistent over and over in testing. It happens at 7 mph in high and of course this is with 28 tires and 16gr weights. I can’t understand why it would shift earlier when it needs servicing? It sure makes me rethink running without a cover to eliminate belt heat in my low ratio quest even tho many have with greaseless!
    This test kinda validated my opinion of not mashing the throttle from a dead start after stopping and if you shut down quick try to get off the brake and let things turn a bit before a full stop!

    As an addition of info, my belt at 700 miles measured exactly 1.3 just as AKHUNTER’s did!
    .5mm shim was in during the 700 miles and 1mm shim was in during spring testing!
    Last edited by Budro2; 06-01-2019 at 08:27 PM.
    noload and erik like this.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, 1mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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