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Crank Case Cover Damaged From Belt

This is a discussion on Crank Case Cover Damaged From Belt within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Originally Posted by Budro2 Reading your more detailed description of the situation it’s sounds more like the high speed and stabbing the brake scenario. I ...

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Thread: Crank Case Cover Damaged From Belt

  1. #91
    Evil Kenevil erik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budro2 View Post
    Reading your more detailed description of the situation it’s sounds more like the high speed and stabbing the brake scenario.
    I agree, this is what it sounds like, which is something you just have to live with in this type of transmission.
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    Mountaineer Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik View Post
    I agree, this is what it sounds like, which is something you just have to live with in this type of transmission.
    Or, always back out of the throttle more slowly before stopping to change gears so the secondary can take up the slack.
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  3. #93
    Evil Kenevil erik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budro2 View Post
    Or, always back out of the throttle more slowly before stopping to change gears so the secondary can take up the slack.
    You mean the throttle isn't an on/off switch?!?! I thought this was race!!!
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  5. #94
    Hog Chaser
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunterworks View Post
    I can't say exactly what is causing the barking and I have not said much in this thread because of our position of not using a sheave at all in a Wolverine or Viking for that matter with 28" or larger tires. We did however stop shipping the shim in vikings and Wolverines for those who still use them when we ask you not to with these tires to help with giving a bit of more space in the cover.

    AKhunter if your sheave is a older one that the towers have not been machined then maybe it is not closing all the way and belt slips a bit at times, I can't remember the date when we started that but it has been well over a year.

    As a general answer for anyone in this spot, we say don't do it and therefore we have not put these size tires on and tested etc to overcome it, there simply is not enough room in the belt box on these two vehicles so it just does not work well and for these vehicles we only recommend clutch kits. The new X2 and X4 has a bigger cover.

    I am very sorry you guys are having this trouble, however we have asked everyone not to use our sheave with the size tires for at least a couple years and the warning is there on our site when you buy.

    Todd
    Thanks for chiming in. When Iinstalled the clutch I was running 28" Zillas and I forgot about the warning not to use the sheave with anything bigger, damn. Here are some pics of the sheave. It only barks/lurches after I have been spinning the tires pretty hard in snow or mud and then come to a quick stop once forward progress has stopped. In that scenario the belt should be fully engaged into both clutches. Then when I put it in forward or reverse it will lurch/bark before moving like the belt hasn't returned to the proper position. I was using the .5 shim.

    Should I remove the shim and consider another spring in the secondary in the hopes that the belt returns to normal position after being fully engaged and then stopping abruptly?

    Should I put my HW 16g weights, sliders, and one or two 0.5mm shims into my factory sheave?

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    2016 R-Spec
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    Supporting Vendor Hunterworks's Avatar
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    I would take the shim out for sure on the other, I am not sure you can fix that, I think if it is really happening like you said, the coming to a abrupt stop there will be slack until you get on the gas again and equalize it out. What you are doing is a very unique driving style that no one would have tested for or really can fix
    Todd Eldridge
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    I might just try removing the shim. Apparently it is difficult to describe the situation when it occurs. I assure you that what I am doing is a very common situation such as driving through muddy ruts spinning the tires until forward progress is really slowing down so you decide to let off the gas, put it in reverse, and try it again. Same situation when driving through deep snow, your forward movement is slowing down so you let off the throttle, back up, and hit it again. Plowing snow pushing a big load of snow into the snow pile you spin the tires at the end of the push and then put it in reverse only to have the machine lurch/belt bark a little. To be clear, I am not spinning the tires wildly such as WOT or like a heavy foot teenager, but rather a normal amount.

    If go back to the factory sheave do I just remove the grease and install the HW rollers without any kind of lube? I have one 0.5mm shim should I use that with the factory sheave?
    Last edited by AKHUNTER; 05-15-2019 at 09:04 AM.
    2016 R-Spec
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    AIS block off
    2" Perfex lift
    30x10-12 Blackwater Evo's on ITP wheels, 1" spacer in rear
    DIY Radiator mud guards
    DIY fender flares
    Warn 3500 winch
    HW 2R exhaust tip with silencer mod/cutout

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    Try to figure out while driving and reproducing the situation if it is the to light of spring theory or the hard braking issue! The difference will be, if your tires are spinning fast, above about 8MPH, where the CVT is cycled up out of its lowest ratio and you let off the gas fast, then the snow is braking your tire just like you stomped the brake going fast. Same as Noloads video shows. I think if that’s it, just ease off the throttle instead, to let the secondary turn enough to recover the slack.
    If your forward progress is below 8MPH “approximately” then it is still in the lowest ratio where the secondary shouldn’t need to take up any slack when you stop, therefore that to me would prove the spring is to light for the load being applied and is creating belt slack by pulling it down into the secondary.
    It will be interesting to find out going forward if the 30s work with no shim. I was getting 1500ish miles with 28s and a shim before I had issues, you got 300 and we’re getting a pretty good rub already with the 30s.
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    28x10x14 blackwater evos, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
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  9. #98
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    As others have stated, I think what is happening in the video I posted is just part of having a CVT, that being said, if you get stopped in a high load situation where you feel the belt will be loose when you proceed, throw it in neutral, give it enough fuel to engage wet clutch and it will spin the sheaves and they will "reset", let it return to idle and then shift into gear. I have done this a few times to prevent the "slamming" on the tranny and driveline components.
    Last edited by noload; 05-15-2019 at 08:44 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by noload View Post
    A others have stated, I think what is happening in the video I posted is just part of having a CVT, that being said, if you get stopped in a high load situation where you feel the belt will be loose when you proceed, throw it in neutral, give it enough fuel to engage wet clutch and it will spin the sheaves and they will "reset", let it return to idle and then shift into gear. I have done this a few times to prevent the "slamming" on the tranny and driveline components.
    When the belt resets using that technique, wouldn't it still hit the cover when it comes around the bottom of the secondary? If so, the belt would sill get worn by rubbing and the case eventually compromised/leak? I guess I am not seeing the benefit of "resettng" if that is the case so I must not understand. Thanks
    2016 R-Spec
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    PCV
    AIS block off
    2" Perfex lift
    30x10-12 Blackwater Evo's on ITP wheels, 1" spacer in rear
    DIY Radiator mud guards
    DIY fender flares
    Warn 3500 winch
    HW 2R exhaust tip with silencer mod/cutout

  11. #100
    Mountaineer Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKHUNTER View Post
    When the belt resets using that technique, wouldn't it still hit the cover when it comes around the bottom of the secondary? If so, the belt would sill get worn by rubbing and the case eventually compromised/leak? I guess I am not seeing the benefit of "resettng" if that is the case so I must not understand. Thanks
    Yes I’d say correct but you’d definitely not burn the sides of the belt the same as under load! I’d bet it wouldn’t bark!
    I’d also think that it would reset easier and quicker just brushing the cover rather than being forced against it.
    Last edited by Budro2; 05-15-2019 at 08:30 PM.
    AKHUNTER likes this.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, .5 mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 blackwater evos, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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