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ais blockoff plate

This is a discussion on ais blockoff plate within the Wolverine General Discussion forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Let it idle for a few minutes and then look at your exhaust pipe where it leaves the engine, it's really noticeable at night. A ...

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  1. #11
    Lead Super Moderator MORSNO's Avatar
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    Let it idle for a few minutes and then look at your exhaust pipe where it leaves the engine, it's really noticeable at night. A Power Commander V from Hunterworks will come preprogrammed with a map that will increase your engines performance and cool the exhaust with a richer fuel mixture.
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  2. #12
    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    I just ordered it. Does it come with pretty good instructions?
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    I just ordered it. Does it come with pretty good instructions?
    Yes. The instructions are very clear. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the hardest part is accessing the wire below the airbox. Once you have that one, you've got it made.
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    Yeah, I have a desk job and I was able to install the PCV in about, oh, a day. Mind you, the install does not take normal people that long. Just me. The instructions are very clear. As others have said, if you get the PCV then you might as well do the AIS block at the same time. That part is really fast. On the PCV install, I had to use a pair of long needle nose pliers to hold the female part of the connector, then try many, many times while fighting cramps and miscellaneous positional trauma to connect the male/female. I’m pretty sure at one point I was playing twister. It was not easy. In fact, I learned a few new words during this particular install. I also discovered that although I am 47 years old, I can still contort my body into some amazing positions in an effort to maximize my leverage to get that extra millimeter I needed to join the connectors.

    On the AIS plate, be sure to leave the reed valve assembly and just remove the old cover and replace it with the new plate. When I removed my old cover, the reed valve assembly fell out and I wasn’t sure whether it needed to stay in, so I called Todd and he told me to leave it in.
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  6. #15
    Roosted Topstoy's Avatar
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    Plan on 4 hrs for the install. Take some pictures of how your plastics are joined especially after the first step of removing the whole seats (4 bolts under seat pad for ea.). It might help if you get confused when putting back together. Keep organized on your bolts and fasteners, which goes where when re-assembling. So, remove the seats, then center console and the center console housing, then rear bed, plastic panel under passenger seat, passenger floorboard. Then you can get to the two bolts at the bottom of the airbox on the passenger side and the one bolt on the drivers side of the airbox. The one on the drivers side, you can access without removing floorboard or panel under seat. Loosen clamps on airbox inlet and outlet tubing and disconnect. Pull airbox out of the way enough to get to the connector below. Once that connection is made you can reassemble Airbox, floorboard and panel under passenger side seat. Leave rest until you are all done with the PCV hook-up and maybe even start up you machine and run it for a minute to make sure everything is connected before you reinstall all the remaining body parts. Best of luck to you!
    atkbike and freekshow like this.
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  7. #16
    Supporting Vendor Hunterworks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topstoy View Post
    Plan on 4 hrs for the install. Take some pictures of how your plastics are joined especially after the first step of removing the whole seats (4 bolts under seat pad for ea.). It might help if you get confused when putting back together. Keep organized on your bolts and fasteners, which goes where when re-assembling. So, remove the seats, then center console and the center console housing, then rear bed, plastic panel under passenger seat, passenger floorboard. Then you can get to the two bolts at the bottom of the airbox on the passenger side and the one bolt on the drivers side of the airbox. The one on the drivers side, you can access without removing floorboard or panel under seat. Loosen clamps on airbox inlet and outlet tubing and disconnect. Pull airbox out of the way enough to get to the connector below. Once that connection is made you can reassemble Airbox, floorboard and panel under passenger side seat. Leave rest until you are all done with the PCV hook-up and maybe even start up you machine and run it for a minute to make sure everything is connected before you reinstall all the remaining body parts. Best of luck to you!
    Why did you take all that out? Sounds like you went to a ton of trouble. I only took the bed off and the drivers side plastic was off because I was in the clutch and was able to get to the crank position plug from under the engine.
    Atcdan13 and MORSNO like this.
    Todd Eldridge
    Hunterworks Inc
    [email protected]
    601-771-0070

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topstoy View Post
    Plan on 4 hrs for the install. Take some pictures of how your plastics are joined especially after the first step of removing the whole seats (4 bolts under seat pad for ea.). It might help if you get confused when putting back together. Keep organized on your bolts and fasteners, which goes where when re-assembling. So, remove the seats, then center console and the center console housing, then rear bed, plastic panel under passenger seat, passenger floorboard. Then you can get to the two bolts at the bottom of the airbox on the passenger side and the one bolt on the drivers side of the airbox. The one on the drivers side, you can access without removing floorboard or panel under seat. Loosen clamps on airbox inlet and outlet tubing and disconnect. Pull airbox out of the way enough to get to the connector below. Once that connection is made you can reassemble Airbox, floorboard and panel under passenger side seat. Leave rest until you are all done with the PCV hook-up and maybe even start up you machine and run it for a minute to make sure everything is connected before you reinstall all the remaining body parts. Best of luck to you!
    Wow! Yeah, I agree with Todd. I only had to take out the upper part of the center console and the bed. 1 hour job for the whole install for me.
    Atcdan13 likes this.

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  9. #18
    Puddle Jumper
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    The head pipe glowing on these machines isn't because it is crazy lean it is because there is still raw unburnt fuel in the exhaust that the introduction of air combusts in the head pipe not because the engine is running some crazy hot temperature inside begging for more fuel or something.

    It is how the emission system is designed to work.

    Adding the fuel controller is going to make less exhaust heat at the exhaust port and head pipe(only if the air is blocked) but you have to realize the muffler is actually a catalytic converter(it has platinum honeycomb inside)and if you put more fuel through it the temperature of the exhaust system as it relates to the heat that is melting the plastic beds it is going to likely get even hotter as the cat is burning off a more fuel rich exhaust.

    Not possible for a catalytic converter to get cooler running by adding fuel especially if the air is cut off too. The temperature will go up the more fuel it has to burn off.

    Blocking the air off that is helping consume the extra fuel at the port is also going to make it to the cat raw if you block that off and the cat again will increase in temperature as it has to burn more fuel out of the exhaust stream. That air was burning up the unburnt fuel before it reached the cat and without the air the cat has to burn that extra fuel also.

    Unless the muffler is cut off and honey comb knocked out and welded back which will make it loud as hell because the catalytic portion is what is actually making it a muffler your temperature under bed will likely get hotter blocking the air up and adding fuel.

    Best bet is to cut the cat/muffler off and install a muffler if you are going to do these modifications to the Wolverine.
    Last edited by danielplace1962; 03-06-2018 at 08:59 AM.
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  10. #19
    Roosted Topstoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunterworks View Post
    Why did you take all that out? Sounds like you went to a ton of trouble. I only took the bed off and the drivers side plastic was off because I was in the clutch and was able to get to the crank position plug from under the engine.
    I have big hands and arms I guess as I couldn't even barely touch it with my fingertips as it was buried under the airbox. There was no freedom in it to move more than an inch as it was wrapped up in the wiring harness tight with the other connectors.
    "When you wallow with pigs, expect to get dirty." “Veni, Vedi, Vici”

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  11. #20
    Mountaineer Flex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielplace1962 View Post
    The head pipe glowing on these machines isn't because it is crazy lean it is because there is still raw unburnt fuel in the exhaust that the introduction of air combusts in the head pipe not because the engine is running some crazy hot temperature inside begging for more fuel or something.

    It is how the emission system is designed to work.

    Adding the fuel controller is going to make less exhaust heat at the exhaust port and head pipe(only if the air is blocked) but you have to realize the muffler is actually a catalytic converter(it has platinum honeycomb inside)and if you put more fuel through it the temperature of the exhaust system as it relates to the heat that is melting the plastic beds it is going to likely get even hotter as the cat is burning off a more fuel rich exhaust.

    Not possible for a catalytic converter to get cooler running by adding fuel especially if the air is cut off too. The temperature will go up the more fuel it has to burn off.

    Blocking the air off that is helping consume the extra fuel at the port is also going to make it to the cat raw if you block that off and the cat again will increase in temperature as it has to burn more fuel out of the exhaust stream. That air was burning up the unburnt fuel before it reached the cat and without the air the cat has to burn that extra fuel also.

    Unless the muffler is cut off and honey comb knocked out and welded back which will make it loud as hell because the catalytic portion is what is actually making it a muffler your temperature under bed will likely get hotter blocking the air up and adding fuel.

    Best bet is to cut the cat/muffler off and install a muffler if you are going to do these modifications to the Wolverine.
    Todd,
    What is your take on this?
    Atcdan13 likes this.

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