Wolverine X2/X4 Parking Brake Adjustment
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Wolverine X2/X4 Parking Brake Adjustment

This is a discussion on Wolverine X2/X4 Parking Brake Adjustment within the X2/X4 How To forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine X2 & X4 847cc SxS category; I just passed 5K miles and my parking brake lever was reaching its limit and not always supplying sufficient pressure on the pads. I suggest ...

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Thread: Wolverine X2/X4 Parking Brake Adjustment

  1. #1
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
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    Wolverine X2/X4 Parking Brake Adjustment

    I just passed 5K miles and my parking brake lever was reaching its limit and not always supplying sufficient pressure on the pads. I suggest you schedule to do this whenever you have to service your secondary sheave as you'll soon see why. You could try to adjust it by removing the tunnel cover but you'll find it much harder to do as the brake caliper hardware blocks access to the adjustment screw if done from above. There is an adjustment nut on the handle side, but the proper way is to adjust the piston on the brake itself. Note the following picture was taken when my X4 was brand new.



    When servicing your sheaves if you remove the CVT housing back plate it will give you access to the parking brake caliper



    Once the housing is removed and the radiator hose moved out of the way you have a clear path to the parking brake adjustment bolt



    This shot shows the parking brake rotor, which looks in pretty good condition. As you can see from the cleanliness of this and previous pictures, the parking brake stays really clean. This is part of the reason why even after 5K miles my parking brake works flawlessly without dragging\squealing



    Now get this. You can't see the parking brake pads directly but you can sneak your smart phone camera in for a closeup. I am beyond impressed with how much pad material is still left. This is with 5K miles!! I was going to replace the pads but I see no need to for at least another 2-3K miles. When you go to adjust the piston and touch the caliper you'll find it's very 'floaty'. I believe this is the other reason why the pads are lasting so long\not squealing. When in the relaxed position, the caliper retracts fully and the pads don't drag. I half wanted to take it apart to see the improvements Yamaha made but I'm just going to blissfully enjoy the improvements and fight my urge to dissect it.



    To adjust it you'll need a 12 mm box end wrench and a pair of straight channel lock pliers. Loosen the 12 mm locknut just enough so that you can turn the adjusting screw. You want to turn the adjusting screw clockwise. You may be able to do this by hand or place a piece of tubing over it, but if not, use your pliers. The adjusting screw actually has flats on the end to grab onto but they're not much help. You'll find that as you take out slack the 12 mm locknut gets tightened again as the adjustment screw pushes inward. It's counter-intuitive because the caliper piston is reverse-threaded. Periodically check your parking brake handle. You won't be able to adjust it past a certain point as the piston will only go in so far. Go ahead and re-tighten the 12 mm locknut and you're done.

    Here is the parking brake adjusted. You can see the adjustment screw doesn't stick out as much and the brake piston is pushed further into the bore.

    Last edited by MassiveOverkill; 04-04-2019 at 12:27 PM.
    KeithStone76 likes this.
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    First Wolverine X4 to break the 60 MPH barrier
    Hunterworks prototype sheave with easy cleanout port, 22 gram HV weights
    Weller Racing ECU flash
    HMF Titan Series Quiet slip-on Exhaust
    Swiss-cheesed airbox lid
    Tinkseal additives
    STI HD beadlocks wearing Tusk Terrabite 27x9x12 tires
    OEM windshield, soft cab, and roof
    OEM skid plates
    OEM rock sliders
    OEM A-arm guards
    OEM cargo box

  2. #2
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
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    Parking brake adjustment take 2

    I had to adjust the parking brake some more and decided to pull the whole assembly to do it as well as re-lube the parts. This time I removed the tunnel cover to access it. It's hard to adjust the screw from above so it's easier to just remove the whole caliper assembly. The first picture of the post above has 2 14 mm bolts with blue grease pen marks on them. Remove these two bolts and you can remove the caliper. You may have to remove the air intake hose clamps and move the air intake out of your way for better access.

    There's another slack adjuster underneath the seat. This should be used to remove slack from the cable and not to adjust the parking brake engagement, as previously stated, it's better to do it at the caliper itself. You can loosen this to help free the parking brake cable from the caliper



    Caliper removed



    A trick when removing\installing the spring retention bracket is to remove\install the farthest bracket bolt first (from the spring) and then the one closest to the spring. Doing it this way allows for rotation of the bracket so you're not fighting spring tension



    The parking brake pad hex socket retention bolts



    Exploded view of caliper for those who plan to disassemble and re-lube. I re-lubed mine with TinkSeal. Note: You must install the piston on the left side of the caliper and then the worm gear plunger from the opposite\right side and then install the circlip



    Minimum thickness of pads is 1 mm. As you can see I have plenty of material left. I'd say I have 2K left before having to replace my pads (that's 7K total miles).



    Back side of pads. They're interchangeable but you can see from the wear marks which side faced the piston and which one was outside



    A trick to help you get the right thickness adjustment from the getgo is to measure your rotor and tighten the lock screw on your measuring caliper



    And then transfer that width to your caliper



    I've regreased my caliper sliders with TinkSeal. If you guys want to know why the X2/X4 brakes are silent compared to the older generations it's because Yamaha decided to use high temp grease (black so probably molybdenum-based) on the caliper sliders instead of the crappy clear silicone grease they previously used (which dries out easily).



    I made a video detailing adjusting the piston so that it doesn't bottom out



    When putting everything back together, before remounting the caliper or reinstalling the the parking brake line, put the caliper back over the rotor and do your final parking brake adjustment. My parking brake now is tight at one click.
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    First Wolverine X4 to break the 60 MPH barrier
    Hunterworks prototype sheave with easy cleanout port, 22 gram HV weights
    Weller Racing ECU flash
    HMF Titan Series Quiet slip-on Exhaust
    Swiss-cheesed airbox lid
    Tinkseal additives
    STI HD beadlocks wearing Tusk Terrabite 27x9x12 tires
    OEM windshield, soft cab, and roof
    OEM skid plates
    OEM rock sliders
    OEM A-arm guards
    OEM cargo box

  3. #3
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    Interesting, my parking brake arm is tight and light on in approx one click as well (its new). The is a lot of travel for the arm in the center console slot. I was thinking its too tight but not easy to adjust to back it off so I left it alone. I can't tell if its engaged without checking for the light on the display since it barely moves to a new position.
    MassiveOverkill likes this.
    2017 Wolverine RSPec SE
    Belleville, Ont. Canada

    BigHorn 2.0 27 inch tires
    Half windshield
    Roof
    Aluminum Under armor
    Yamaha Warn 3500lb Winch & Synthetic rope

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