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Alignment

This is a discussion on Alignment within the X2/X4 Suspension forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine X2 & X4 847cc SxS category; What's everyones method for doing an alignment? After 2 adjustments,my string method clearly isnt working or, more likely, I'm an idiot. I've held the steering ...

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    Alignment

    What's everyones method for doing an alignment? After 2 adjustments,my string method clearly isnt working or, more likely, I'm an idiot.

    I've held the steering wheel secure with a strap , centered a string off the front and rear hubs with jack stands, measured and remeasured to conform the width was correct and adjusted from there.

    The first trip my drivers side toe was out 1/2". Had to adjust on the trail.
    Second trip the right was toe out even though I never touched it! Now the steering wheel is counter clockwise about 1/8th of a turn

    Checked the tie rods and they dont look to be bent. Frustrating

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by jasonlewis995; 12-08-2019 at 10:01 AM.

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    Belt Smoker Duckmans's Avatar
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    I think Yamaha wants some toe in. After you do your string trick, measure front if wheel to front of wheel then back of wheel to back of wheel to make sure the toe is where you want it. Think 1/8 to 1/4 difference from front to back is good. Or try shooting towards 0 if you want.

    This is just from my experience and not a professional.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    jasonlewis995 likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Duckmans View Post
    I think Yamaha wants some toe in. After you do your string trick, measure front if wheel to front of wheel then back of wheel to back of wheel to make sure the toe is where you want it. Think 1/8 to 1/4 difference from front to back is good. Or try shooting towards 0 if you want.

    This is just from my experience and not a professional.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
    Will do. That's actually one I did not take to verify the measurements. I went off the string , rear to front. Thank you

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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    Rocket jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Take a ball point pen or a sharpie and spin each front wheel and mark a line in the basic center of tire on the lugs. Hold the pen on a jack stand or the floor to keep it steady. As Duckman said, measure between the marks on front of tire and on rear of tire. Make sure you have rolled it back and forth so springs are settled. I like 0 to 1/8" toe-in on my stuff. Toe out is better under 4x power as it forces the tires to go toe-in, but toe-out will make it dart back and forth as each side tries to take over to steer and at speed a little toe-in creates a slight plow affect so there is better control especially in gravel and thin mud.
    After you get toe-in where you want it if the steering wheel needs to be clocked then move each tie-rod end the same amount till it gets centered. Then recheck toe-in to make sure it did not get off.
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    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, Alba Racing Reflash, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

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    Its been quite a while, but putting a straight edge against each tire and measuring the difference between the front and rear of the FRONT tires only would be your offset. My guess would be a 4 wheel alignment with the string method would work with spacers. I have never ran stock tires and rims, but my rhinos were always wider in the front with a square tire set-up and 4 rims with the same offset.
    2019 X2 R-spec SE, Black, Full cab, heater, wiper, tracks, Warn 4500 wireless winch,synthetic. Sendona wheels, 5/2, Sedona rip saws 27x11xR14 , Moose plow, Furion RV back-up camera, Garmin GPS. All Glass.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blast View Post
    Its been quite a while, but putting a straight edge against each tire and measuring the difference between the front and rear of the FRONT tires only would be your offset. My guess would be a 4 wheel alignment with the string method would work with spacers. I have never ran stock tires and rims, but my rhinos were always wider in the front with a square tire set-up and 4 rims with the same offset.
    I did run spacers (1.5") but took them off. I did do the alignment with them on though. Looks like the step I missed was measuring the distance between the two front tires to make sure they were matched up. I just measured off the string.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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    Moon Shiner Scurvy's Avatar
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    I put a long straightedge across each front tire parallel to the ground and adjusted each tie-rod until the distance from a point on the frame to the rear of the straightedge was identical. This centered my steering wheel and indicated to me my front end was aligned with the frame (originally I had thought why not just make each tie-rod identical in length but no that didn't work). Then I adjusted the toe-in. I had also tried the string method and found that to be about impossible for one person to do - it was a lot harder to do than I thought, at least for me
    jasonlewis995 and blast like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scurvy View Post
    I put a long straightedge across each front tire parallel to the ground and adjusted each tie-rod until the distance from a point on the frame to the rear of the straightedge was identical. This centered my steering wheel and indicated to me my front end was aligned with the frame (originally I had thought why not just make each tie-rod identical in length but no that didn't work). Then I adjusted the toe-in. I had also tried the string method and found that to be about impossible for one person to do - it was a lot harder to do than I thought, at least for me
    Thank you !

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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    Rocket jimclemjr's Avatar
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    If you want to use a string I suggest two strings, one on each side be set up and set parallel with the frame. Then you can measure to each point on the tire off a base line. The measuring off string and lines is best with two people imho since you are working to small fractions. With two strings you can check the rear tire alignment as well. With what these things go thru and frame torque and hammering, don't be surprised if the rear alignment is off some. I believe this is to be a balancing act of compromise sometimes. Also with the configuration of some tires side lugs and names you have to be careful how you use the sidewalls for a reference with a board, a big piece of plywood can get you a more accurate. I have two sections of straight aluminum storefront about 5' long that I notched at stud locations and clamp to hubs and can hook a tape on other side and get a good measurement. I set bottom of a-arms on a wood block so that springs are compressed to normal loaded position. I can do this by myself without help.
    blast and Scurvy like this.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, Alba Racing Reflash, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

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    When I align my X2 I run the string parallel to the rear rim - not tire - as close to the tires as possible without touching. I measure, pull the string tighter and measure again, and then at least once more. That becomes my baseline for adjusting the front. Again using the rim, I measure with equal care until I have dialed in the desired amount of tow-in/out (I run slight tow-out, but it must be very slight because I don't experience the dartiness that others warn against). All of this presumes that the rear hubs are properly aligned with the chassis, which I tend to doubt, but within whatever tolerances are applicable to my machine it works for me. On hard surfaces, my Wolverine tracks straight, hands-off, regardless of speed, with no wandering, except that caused by the road crown.
    blast likes this.
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