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Rear brakes

This is a discussion on Rear brakes within the X2/X4 Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine X2 & X4 847cc SxS category; My rear pins were as dry as Grandpa's sense of humor on my X2. 78 miles....

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Thread: Rear brakes

  1. #51
    Evil Kenevil
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    My rear pins were as dry as Grandpa's sense of humor on my X2. 78 miles.

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    😂😂. yea that could do it.

  3. #53
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortbus453 View Post
    Doing some reading on the various brake pads and causes of early failure... One of the main causes is sandy conditions, specifically sand suspended in water. Well, that sums up very well one of my main riding areas very well. The trail system is mainly sand, and I have been working through my machine to clean as much of the sand out of it that I can from the weekend when I made a bad line selection going into a section of trail that was completely under water.

    I still believe in my case it was likely a situation where the lubrication either wasn't applied enough, wasn't of high enough quality, or couldn't withstand the water (between use and washing).

    And I am thankful that someone had mentioned that they are the same pads as used on the other newer Yamaha SxS's, so I verified that information and found it to be true. When I was looking up the OEM pricing, I was shocked at how expensive the OEM is, so I am taking a chance on the Race Driven set. I even called Race Driven directly and they offer a military discount, which means a lot to me. Hoping to have the new pads tomorrow to install. Now to hope that I can clean my parking brake enough that it doesn't wear out instantly also.
    Please give a report down the road on the race driven pads. I put the EBC on and I’m not sure I like what I’m seeing so far in comparison to the OEM but it’s a little early to know for sure.
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  5. #54
    Lightning
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    I assume the brakes did not change at all from Gen 1 these. Make me wonder as well whether i should be lubing my pins. No need to brake hard or much due to engine braking. Just the final stop as it approaches a road crossing.
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  6. #55
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    I assume the brakes did not change at all from Gen 1 these. Make me wonder as well whether i should be lubing my pins. No need to brake hard or much due to engine braking. Just the final stop as it approaches a road crossing.
    My brakes rarely squeal and when they do it's always after getting into mud. I notice that X2/X4 owners aren't complaining about brake squeal\brake wear and those who do are finding their caliper sliders bone dry. This bothers me as those components should be assembled from the factory and it seems we have some lazy workers. Probably the same ones who've been moved off the Viking assembly line who were formerly in charge of tightening middle drive gear bolts.
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  7. #56
    Sparky jimclemjr's Avatar
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    I found out a couple weeks ago that my rear inside pads are gone also. Couldn't believe it so ordered a cheap set and plan on installing tomorrow. Got the pads last week and no wonder they are gone as they are so small- I was surprised- seems like they are smaller than the Rhino pads but just an impression. I will let y'all know what I find.
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  8. #57
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    Got my rear pads installed. The pins were dry and showed some wear. I cleaned them up as best as I could and lubed them. Also cleaned up the caliper as good as I could without taking them off, and shot some lube on the pistons to allow them to travel a little more freely as well. Overall it wasn't the worst that I have seen as far as the dryness and dirt, but it likely had a part in the whole situation. I was also shocked at how small the rears were vs the fronts.

    I also took the time to do an visual inspection on the condition of the front pads, and they were nearly brand new.

    After I put the machine back on the ground, I was moving it around in my driveway a little bit to warm it up to change the oils in all 4 holes. I was noticing that the braking didn't seem to be very good and was a bit concerned. I had wiped down the rear rotors as I installed the pads, so I wasn't worried about their being oils on them. So I put it up on the lift and ran it a little. Turns out that it just needed a little better "scuff in" than I was getting rolling around the driveway.

    Hope to get out in a week or so to give it a real test and see what improvements there are, or further problems may exist, and I will report back.
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  9. #58
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    I did my rear pads today and what I found was what I originally expected. The inside pads were .017" and the outer were .077" (original linings .170") The calipers were basically seized and not floating as they should. There was a bunch of debris and mud in the upper pad area. I took the calipers apart and cleaned and lubed sliders (synthetic brake caliper grease) to restore basic operation. It appears the factory had minimum lube in the sliders with some corrosion started. IMHO the pins do not need any lubrication, the service manual does not call for it and that just adds a mechanism to collect grunge around the area that should be free to allow upper minimal pad movement. The stainless steel spring plates in the top pf pad should be cleaned and make sure the outer pad is on the outer side of the spring tip so it holds it in correct position, look close to see it after cleaning. I will try to load a photo but not on my computer and have never done on tablet before, if it doesn't work and you want it please request. The photo shows the sliders with the caliper apart, don't confuse the caliper sliders with the pins in these discussions. Its not a bad idea to lube the brake caliper sliders at intermediate point in pad half life since they are in such an environment.
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    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, OEM stickguards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs

  10. #59
    Sparky jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Sorry gang I forgot to tell you the whole story: The above situation was my left rear brakes. The right rear caliper bracket was NOT frozen but had very little grease when I took it apart to clean and lube. The pads were both totally gone down to about .002" (inside piston side a little less than outer pad). So this piece of the puzzle confirms the logic on the sliders being the prime culprit of the inside wearing out unevenly. so if you are going to lube them per manual I would recommend a brake lube as typically a brake lube is made to resist the high heat and moisture environment this gets.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, OEM stickguards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs

  11. #60
    Sparky jimclemjr's Avatar
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    some more helpful info for those who may be a little intimidated to do this caliper bracket sliders maintenance. If you don't do this you will regret it later. It's really easy after the first time. When you take off the caliper, the only thing holding the bracket to the caliper is the little rubber boots on the sliders. If the bracket does not want to go in and out on the sliders, one or both pins are dry and a little corrosion has set in, or it may be in a bind between the two pins cause only one is frozen. so carefully start to pry it apart one side or the other and you may find some movement so you can walk it off. If it is really frozen, I have found you can use a wrench to loosen/back-off the center pin and then you can rotate the bracket and work it off. If really frozen then use some penetrating oil in the slider by pushing back the slider rubber boot at the bracket end and pushing the oil straw into the slider joint and let it sit a minute or three. When it comes apart clean it out with a paper towel technique like you use in your nose and then use brake cleaner to wash it out. If there is corrosion in the bore of the side slider hole use a brillo pad style of mild sanding pad to clean it out for smooth operation. Finally use spray brake cleaner, let dry and then lube the hole, there are flats on the slider which will let extra grease escape if you push hard. Wipe it off the rubber boot end and the slider shoulder so the boot will stay on the slider shoulder at the bracket.
    Also recommend that you clean the sides of the pistons as best you can and use some mild penetrating lube like WD40 in the body to piston joint before you push them back into the bore. And it is definitely easier to use the C-clamp with the bracket off the caliper to retract the pistons. And if you are new to doing brakes, do them one corner at a time as if you get them all off and push a piston back, the system pressure may force another piston on a different wheel totally out of its bore and then you are definitely rebuilding or buying new calipers (plus a brake fluid mess lol). If you push them back in like most do, then it is a good practice to check for any tell tale signs of leakage after some riding, as the process can damage the piston o-rings and make them leak.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, OEM stickguards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs

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