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Rear brakes

This is a discussion on Rear brakes within the X2/X4 Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine X2 & X4 847cc SxS category; Overflow should just come out the cap and not activate the brakes. Otherwise brakes would operated different in different temperatures with expansion and contraction when ...

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Thread: Rear brakes

  1. #21
    Rocket
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    Overflow should just come out the cap and not activate the brakes. Otherwise brakes would operated different in different temperatures with expansion and contraction when cooling as well as warming in hot weather of both Air & Fluid in the master cylinder.
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  2. #22
    Evil Kenevil Budro2's Avatar
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    I don’t think it’s possible to overfill the reservoir and have it actuate the brakes. If it was that then both pads should be worn equally. I just changed my rear brakes at 4500 and they may have went another 1500 but both pads were worn equally. I think the holes in the pad are binding on the guide pins and not releasing. Do you get a soft pedal some of the time? Or does the pedal always feel normal?
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  3. #23
    Mountaineer 19Wherry's Avatar
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    As far as normal brake feel I don t know what it would be I guess. Only had it now for 260 miles. It didn’t feel it being spongy though. I’m assuming this has been going on the whole time. The whole building pressure thing is debatable. Just a thought. The only reason I would bring it up these systems are a little different then an automobile. Most automobile caps are quarter turn and flimsy and do not hold a seal. These on ours are screw on and heavy duty and sealed. Plus it takes less pressure to activate the pistons in theses calipers (smaller system). When depressing the pistons to return to normal position I was able to do it with my fingers with the cap off. Was it hard yes but not like a standard automobile where you have to use a clamp. I will have to check the brake pedal adjustment I think. And report back. Good discussion!
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  5. #24
    Cannon Ball jimclemjr's Avatar
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    From the parts diagram, the worn pads are the piston side ones, which means the calipers are not moving like they should to equalize the squeeze pressure of the piston. I would bet something is wrong with the slide posts/bolts. Take them off, take them apart, check seals and other parts and grease and reinstall. It is best to do this operation every time you change pads especially if you ride in mud and grime a lot. My $.02
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  6. #25
    Mountaineer 19Wherry's Avatar
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  7. #26
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
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    Norbert Keppler Jr. aka BigDogDaddy has been spreading lies saying this thread was deleted\moderated and that we (this forum is of no help).
    Last edited by MassiveOverkill; 06-06-2019 at 07:48 AM.
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  8. #27
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19Wherry View Post
    Good to know. Do plan on redoing your clutch mod testing or do you think what you've done is valid?
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  9. #28
    Mountaineer 19Wherry's Avatar
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    Yes still plan on testing. I am curious about the HMF and it would help guys with clutching questions.
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  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19Wherry View Post
    Yes still plan on testing. I am curious about the HMF and it would help guys with clutching questions.
    Yeah I would say nothing you did is valid so far. Not with your dragging rear brake issue. I would go back and test the 16 gram again also. Along with the 18 and 20. It all makes sense now with your low MPH with dragging brakes. Don't be resting your foot on the brake pedal anymore. lol

    Just like Sammy Hager said lol

    I can't drive 55!

    One foot on the brake and one on the gas, hey!
    Last edited by InfidelMT; 06-06-2019 at 06:21 PM.
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  11. #30
    Mountaineer 19Wherry's Avatar
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    Just gona send it!
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