X4 3000 mile sheave service (also applicable to the X2) - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Yamaha Wolverine Forum

X4 3000 mile sheave service (also applicable to the X2)

This is a discussion on X4 3000 mile sheave service (also applicable to the X2) within the X2/X4 CVT, Sheaves & Wet Clutch forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine X2 & X4 847cc SxS category; Clean grease out of sheave and put Hunterworks greaseless HV weights in, do not reinstall grease cover....

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 15 of 15
Like Tree19Likes

Thread: X4 3000 mile sheave service (also applicable to the X2)

  1. #11
    Engineer TINKEN's Avatar
    Member #
    430
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    CA/AZ
    Posts
    1,708
    Member #
    430
    Liked
    548 times
    Clean grease out of sheave and put Hunterworks greaseless HV weights in, do not reinstall grease cover.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
    Member #
    4298
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Custer, SD
    Posts
    1,349
    Member #
    4298
    Liked
    952 times
    Some updates

    I used red loctite (not too much, just a dab on the outer threads) on my secondary spring retention nut and found it hard to break the nut free. If you use loctite you can apply heat to the fastener and it should melt off but I placed a socket to clamp the secondary in place so I could break the nut free. I placed rubber below the outer sheave to help hold it.



    Updated Hunterworks secondary spring holding tool now fits over the X2/X4 secondary spring retention nut



    Pay special attention to the spider cage bearing grease seal. The bearing seal retention plate they use to hold it in is only secured on one side. There's a tab to keep the retention plate from rotating but nothing to prevent it from the unsecured end of the plate from being pushed out by the seal. This can cause a lot of problems if it happens as the retention plate will rub against the end shaft. Overgreasing can force that seal out so if you're regreasing that bearing, install the spider cage and bottom it out and pull it back off to see if too much grease that forces the rubber seal out. In addition the seal could be so tight that the spider cage won't bottom out properly. You then install your bolts and your spider cage can get installed cockeyed. I don't install the bolts unless I know all 4 legs are flush and bottomed out. I wish Yamaha would redesign the seal holder so that it's secured by 2 bolts, not just one.



    Bearing seal removed exposing bearing



    If you have a bearing puller it may be easier to repack the bearing. I'm using Tinkseal to relube mine



    Rubber seal reinstalled and sitting flush



    I removed some more of the CVT webbing around the intake (I know it's not pretty looking) so it's easier to remove

    Last edited by MassiveOverkill; 01-04-2019 at 08:49 AM.
    MORSNO likes this.
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    First Wolverine X4 to break the 60 MPH barrier
    Hunterworks prototype sheave with easy cleanout port, 22 gram HV weights
    Weller Racing ECU flash
    HMF Titan Series Quiet slip-on Exhaust
    Swiss-cheesed airbox lid
    Tinkseal additives
    STI HD beadlocks wearing Tusk Terrabite 27x9x12 tires
    OEM windshield, soft cab, and roof
    OEM skid plates
    OEM rock sliders
    OEM A-arm guards
    OEM cargo box

  3. #13
    Paper Boy Grizzlysituation's Avatar
    Member #
    15150
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    La in the woods by the bayou
    Posts
    11
    Member #
    15150
    Liked
    12 times
    Great info in all of your threads so far that I’ve read. Thanks for posting.
    MORSNO and MassiveOverkill like this.
    19’ Wolverine X2, White on Black (stickers went bye bye on day 1)
    • 31” Skinny Laws on CanAm Renny XMR bead locks
    • Super ATV 4” Portals



  4. Remove Advertisements
    WolverineForums.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #14
    Super Moderator MassiveOverkill's Avatar
    Member #
    4298
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Custer, SD
    Posts
    1,349
    Member #
    4298
    Liked
    952 times
    5K mile update. Between all the clutch testing I've lost track of exact mileage but it's been 500-1K miles since I last serviced my secondary. To refresh your memories, I had replaced the spring cup because it was heavily gouged. I didn't service it with normal grease but used TinkSeal (available from HunterWorks) this time. I realized when I got everything back together, minus spring, that when I moved the secondary sheave halves in\out that the outer seals were shot and allowing too much grease to get by them. Being this is my daily driver I decided to go with it for winter since I wouldn't be doing much high speed driving and would replace the seals when things warmed up.

    In my previous Viking\Rhino one could get away with just re greasing and reusing the seals but with the additional loads\heat I now feel one should replace the seals on the X2/X4 secondary or at least have them on hand. The outer seals are part #93101-48004-00 and you'll need 2 at about 12 bucks each. You'll also need the O-rings, which are part #93210-50768-00, also 2 at 3 bucks each.

    Usually when pulling my secondary out for service I'll find some grease has flung out onto the housing no matter how good I clean up excess grease after repacking. I was pleasantly surprised that even with bad seals there was minimum grease flung on the inside of my CVT housing



    The reason for this I believe is because Tinkseal is very light weight, more the consistency of white lithium grease than wheel bearing grease. As a result it's more apt to stay where you put it. Another reason for changing the seals is that if you change greases, it's really hard to clean out the grease behind the outer seals as well as any dirt that gets in there as well.

    I'm used to replacing larger automotive seals where a pick or screwdriver or self-screw can be used. I bought an actual seal puller this time and using a block of wood with it makes it much easier to remove the seal. Here the seal is already removed so you can get a better idea of how to use the seal puller



    This shot shows the 2 O-ring seals removed and the top end seal removed



    The other seal on the belt side of the secondary sheave removed



    New seals installed and secondary packed with TinkSeal. I purposely put grease on the spring cup surface as there are no plans for slippery washers at this point for the X2/X4 that I know of. Make sure that before installing the O-rings you liberally coat the O-rings as well as pack their channels. For the end seals, you want to install them dry, otherwise they can come out if you lube the channels they're in. Use a large socket or piece of wood and gently tap them into place being careful not to install them cockeyed. If you do get them started cockeyed, don't try to tap the high side but start at the seated part and follow around the circumference of the seal tapping with your wood block. After they're installed make sure you pack grease inside their lips.



    Even with my seals shot, Tinkseal kept the guide pins from gouging the spring cup. Unlike grease that lubricates surfaces, TinkSeal treats the metal so even if the liquid component dries out, you essentially have a dry-lubed part. The other benefit is that your seals get the benefit of that treatment and should last longer from friction wear.
    Dozer370 and KeithStone76 like this.
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    First Wolverine X4 to break the 60 MPH barrier
    Hunterworks prototype sheave with easy cleanout port, 22 gram HV weights
    Weller Racing ECU flash
    HMF Titan Series Quiet slip-on Exhaust
    Swiss-cheesed airbox lid
    Tinkseal additives
    STI HD beadlocks wearing Tusk Terrabite 27x9x12 tires
    OEM windshield, soft cab, and roof
    OEM skid plates
    OEM rock sliders
    OEM A-arm guards
    OEM cargo box

  6. #15
    Roosted 19Wherry's Avatar
    Member #
    15110
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    138
    Member #
    15110
    Liked
    95 times
    Nice write up! Great info.
    MassiveOverkill likes this.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. First 300 mile trip...my review of the X4, accessories and my personal mods.
    By Mass-n-Trash in forum Wolverine X2/X4 General Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-27-2019, 06:41 PM
  2. Self Service on Intial Break-In Service
    By Rebelscum in forum Wolverine General Discussion
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 09-09-2018, 08:46 PM
  3. Warn 3000 winch for loading Wolverine onto truck rack, questions!
    By ErikTheRed in forum Wolverine General Discussion
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 08-23-2018, 02:54 AM
  4. 1400 and 2400 mile sheave service
    By TINKEN in forum Viking General Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-02-2018, 10:16 PM
  5. 686 mile report
    By Hondabob in forum Wolverine General Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-10-2015, 06:45 PM

Search tags for this page

yamaha wolverine x4 clutch sheave

Click on a term to search our site for related topics.
WolverineForums.com is an independent Yamaha enthusiast website. Content on WolverineForums.com is generated by its users and WolverineForums.com is not in any way affiliated with Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.