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vibration about 25-30 mph

This is a discussion on vibration about 25-30 mph within the Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Originally Posted by zs700 Ok guys I jacked the rear end off the ground and gave it some gas in high to spin the tires ...

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Thread: vibration about 25-30 mph

  1. #11
    gip
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    Quote Originally Posted by zs700 View Post
    Ok guys
    I jacked the rear end off the ground and gave it some gas in high to spin the tires 8-10 mph.
    The problem is the rear tires.
    I changed the wheels and tire back to stock and everything is fine.
    The driver rear must have a broken belt.
    The pass rear has some wobble but nothing like the driver rear.
    All is well now.
    Guess I will be in the market for some new tires.
    Thank you everyone for your help
    Just as an FYI to everyone what are brand of tires you had problems with so others may watch out for potentially same issue?
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS| Super ATV Tilt windsheild| Yamaha Rear Box| STI Roctanes XD 26x9x12 all 4 corners | and other associated goodies

  2. #12
    Sunday Driver
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    Quote Originally Posted by gip View Post
    Just as an FYI to everyone what are brand of tires you had problems with so others may watch out for potentially same issue?
    efx motoclaws all corners 27x10x14.
    mas wheels

  3. #13
    Sunday Driver
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    well the problem is back. i thought the tires fixed the problem but the vibration has returned.

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  5. #14
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    Have you checked the wheel bearings. Mine had a vibration coming out of the back about that same speed when you let off the throttle
    TINKEN likes this.
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  6. #15
    Engineer TINKEN's Avatar
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    When they installed your tires, were they balanced too?

  7. #16
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    Posting in this old thread because it helped me find my problem but it also just ended with no final report!

    I started getting a light vibration and at first passed it off as the new black water evos being an aggressive rougher riding tire than the previous ones. Then I had a popping sound in my left rear axle as it was going bad so I replaced that and thought that was probably it.

    Next ride it was even worse, I had just been in the CVT 200 miles ago for a belt change and swapped out my weights. I started thinking as Tinken stated that I had a stuck weight in the primary and remembered this thread.

    I checked the front driveline right away and all good but the problem was not just in 4 wheel drive either. It began in the 20 to 25 mph range as stated in this thread. The last ride I really noticed it be worse as I would go into a corner to the right, also going down hill in 4 wheel vs 2 was worse.

    Today 1st thing after work I started it up, put it in neutral, and reved it up and down. No vibration! Then I jacked it up, pulled the front tires and sure enough the right front wheel bearing is smooth and the left one very rough!

    The symptoms go right along with the results. I slowly began to feel the vibration in the steering wheel as well!

    What a relief, easy fix. Went with all balls bearing!
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
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    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, .5 mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 blackwater evos, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1Ē rear spacers
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  8. #17
    Mountaineer Budro2's Avatar
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    Well it turned out not to be the wheel bearings!
    Iím kinda laughing at myself, as I learned something new that is probably common knowledge to many. When I was investigating my vibration problem, front end jacked up and tires removed, the right hub turned free and the left felt rough. Today the bearings came in and I tore it down. I checked the bearings and all seemed good, as well as the seals looked great. Next I grabbed the axle and turned it and it went clunck clunck clunck. I then put it in a straight position to rule out the constant velocity yoke and got the same result. The diff fluid has been changed twice since new. I pulled the fill plug and the fluid was full. I thought I had a differential problem, but itís been working normal in 4wheel and diff lock. Called the service dept. at the dealer and talked to a mechanic. Turns out that itís normal because of the way the limited slip works, so that was a relief.

    I had changed the axle boots on this axle 500 miles ago and it was the 1st time Iíd done one. I didnít get the band tight enough on the inner boot on the side closest to the diff. Grease had been coming out but I didnít notice it back in there. I had kept a close eye on the areas I could see on the inner and outer boot and all had looked good. I had lost at least 2/3 of the grease. When I twisted it around it felt rough, especially when fully compressed. This made me think of going into a right turn at speed with some body roll and getting more vibration as the A arm goes upward compressing the joint. I took it all apart, completely cleaned out the grease and inspected everything and found no damage. I filled up the yoke with grease put it back on, added grease into the boot on the other side of the joint, banded it down and then it felt smooth. Put it all back together.

    Next out of curiosity I jacked the rear A arms up and ran it up to 20-28 mph up and down, just to rule out something with the rear end. No vibration. I then took it for a test drive and the vibration in the steering wheel was gone, so for me it ended up being the constant velocity yoke going dry. I think a wheel bearing or axle joint going bad would produce a similar symptom though!

    4100 miles, the bearings were doing fine, and I donít want to replace them till I have to as Hunterworks did a write up on how they never last as long as the originals due to being pressed in at factory through a system we canít produce that has them better aligned I guess. According to his research failure rate afterword has less to do with the type of bearing than it has to do with our inability to install them as well. The seals were fine too. 250 miles ago I changed the rear knuckle seals as they weíre going bad but the bearings were doing great. Ball joints are great. Tie rod ends are original and feel a little loose to me but they felt much the same when it was new. Iíll probably swap them out soon and keep the old ones as emergency spares.

    Definitely the blackwater evos have more vibration than what Iím used to but due to the tread design thatís to be expected. I installed them in the winter and they had only seen mud and snow till now so I didnít notice the vibration they produce and growling sound till things hardened up. When Iím done busting snow up high Iíll put them away till next winter. They're great for what I bought them for but are stiffer and rougher riding in the rocks and donít get as good a grip on big slick rocks like other tires.
    MORSNO likes this.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, .5 mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 blackwater evos, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1Ē rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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