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Rear diff Vent Tube

This is a discussion on Rear diff Vent Tube within the Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; I have had some rear diff leakage obvious from diff oil cream. It seems to have slowed but could not figure why with only 1450 ...

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Thread: Rear diff Vent Tube

  1. #1
    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Rear diff Vent Tube

    I have had some rear diff leakage obvious from diff oil cream. It seems to have slowed but could not figure why with only 1450 miles. While reinstalling my motor I had to pull the axles and rotate the diff to put in driveshaft so I detached the vent tube. After I got the Wolv I checked the vent tube routing that most know abut and it was low and so put it up high. But I never checked the hose. While installing new seals, I looked at the vent tube outlet and it was full of mud. Got to checking hose and yep it was totally blocked, it must have had 6" of its length totally full of dried caked dirt in it, mostly at bottom loop. I initially could not blow compressed air thru it. I did thoroughly clean it out and will reinstall the correct way. I guess I am a little embarrassed for trusting that the hose was open and doing its job. So why would this clogged vent hose make it leak? I believe without the ambient atmosphere available for the diff to release heat and pull in clean fresh air, when it gets as hot as those diffs do, it will vent the pressure thru the seals and when it cools like going thru a stream or even stopping for a few minutes in water, it can create a vacuum to pull in the water with the air trying to equalize the pressure. Mostly I just wanted to share the need to check the rogue rear diff vent hose if you never have, you should be able to blow through it.
    Last edited by jimclemjr; 08-20-2019 at 08:38 PM.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

  2. #2
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    Glad you found a definite cause for the leaking. Best I have been able to determine, that with how hot the differential gets, the differential gear oil expands enough to be the same as adding an additional 2 ozs., which is expanding about 9%. This is a lot, so all of that additional pressure has got to go somewhere to be released.

    I have been doing a little testing on the heat generated by the differential and am about to decide that most of the heat is not generated by the differential itself but by the inner CV joints and then transferred to the differential. Am going to do a lot more testing while in Utah the next couple of weeks, comparing to other Wolverines. I just recently made an aluminum heat shield that I mounted to stop all heat from the exhaust pipe/muffler getting to the differential and from testing around the yard the differential stays cool and the inner CV joints get close to the point of being to hot to keep your hand on (especially the right side). This is with only 45 minutes of riding around at 7-10 mph in the yard so I know all day trail riding they are going to get much hotter and then the CV joints will have time to transfer the heat to the differential. As I mentioned, I still want to do some more testing, to be absolutely sure the differential is getting hot due to heat transfer from the inner CV joints but as of right now this is looking like the case.

    I'm not sure the heat shield is really going to help any because I checked the temperature of the differential and inner CV joints from riding around the yard before I installed the heat shield and the diff. stayed cool and the inner CV joints got hot, the same as with the heat shield added. I added the heat shield because it was just to easy to make and install while I had the bed off for replacing all the seals in my differential.
    jimclemjr likes this.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
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  3. #3
    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    Glad you found a definite cause for the leaking. .
    Well just hope I got the RTV in the hub properly lol. Should know in a couple days.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

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  5. #4
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    Me too, I would hate to have to take it all apart again. I haven't ridden mine since I replaced the seals in the diff, except around the yard. I'll know for sure in a couple of weeks.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

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