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Replacing Rear Differential Pinion Seal

This is a discussion on Replacing Rear Differential Pinion Seal within the Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Make sure to silicone the splines that's where mine was leaking when the nut came loose....

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Thread: Replacing Rear Differential Pinion Seal

  1. #11
    Couch Potato
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    Make sure to silicone the splines that's where mine was leaking when the nut came loose.
    PapaSkeeta and Budro2 like this.

  2. #12
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    Ok, thanks.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

  3. #13
    Mountaineer
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    Quote Originally Posted by cummins1 View Post
    Make sure to silicone the splines that's where mine was leaking when the nut came loose.
    How did you get in there and clean the oil off. Looks like that would be difficult ?

    Just a suggestion as silicone will do almost nothing unless completely oil free.

    A can of good chlorinated brake cleaner shot on it several times may breakdown gear lube and leave you a clean surface for silicone to seal to.

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  5. #14
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    Used brake cleaner and q-tip with brake cleaner to clean splines on shaft. Ended up cleaning all the parts that would be getting Sealant on them 3 times with Brake Cleaner. Getting ready to put nut/gear coupling on later today and torque to 70 ft./lbs. What did you use to hold the Gear Coupling while torquing the nut inside of it?

    Edit: Looking back in hindsight in cleaning the splines, mating surface for washer, and washer for applying sealant to them to prevent diff. oil leakage around the splines, in addition to cleaning with brake cleaner I would also clean them with Acetone since this is such a critical step to insure that the sealant sticks to the surfaces where needed.

    Plan to use this sealer by Permatex
    Name:  Permatex Gear Oil Sealer.jpg
Views: 74
Size:  20.7 KB

    Edit: Generously applied Sealant to splines and mating surface for washer, pushed parts together by hand, and let cure for about 45 minutes per instructions and assembled Drive Shaft Gear Coupling, washer, and nut, on to Differential Pinion Gear/Shaft. Ran a ratchet strap around the Differential and strapped it down on the work bench to keep it from moving. Ended up having to use a Pipe Wrench to hold the outside of the Drive Shaft Gear Coupling to be able to torque the nut to 70 ft./lbs, but the Pipe Wrench worked very well, better than what I was expecting. I did have a friend hold the pipe wrench, would be difficult for 1 person to do, but with 2 people is simple.

    Then let sealant fully cure for at least 24 hours before refilling with Gear Oil.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 08-03-2019 at 09:10 AM.
    Budro2 likes this.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

  6. #15
    Wholigan
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    I had the dealer check and grease the shaft and/or confirm it was grease during my first service so I have a bit of wet looking bushing from the greasing. Its not leaking nor oily but just wondering.

    Thanks !!!
    PapaSkeeta likes this.
    2017 Wolverine RSPec SE
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    Yamaha Warn 3500lb Winch & Synthetic rope
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  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    Used brake cleaner and q-tip with brake cleaner to clean splines on shaft. Ended up cleaning all the parts that would be getting Sealant on them 3 times with Brake Cleaner. Getting ready to put nut/gear coupling on later today and torque to 70 ft./lbs. What did you use to hold the Gear Coupling while torquing the nut inside of it?

    Plan to use this sealer by Permatex
    Name:  Permatex Gear Oil Sealer.jpg
Views: 74
Size:  20.7 KB

    Edit: Generously applied Sealant to splines and mating surface for washer, pushed parts together by hand, and let cure for about 45 minutes per instructions and assembled Drive Shaft Gear Coupling, washer, and nut, on to Differential Pinion Gear/Shaft. Ran a ratchet strap around the Differential and strapped it down on the work bench to keep it from moving. Ended up having to use a Pipe Wrench to hold the outside of the Drive Shaft Gear Coupling to be able to torque the nut to 70 ft./lbs, but the Pipe Wrench worked very well, better than what I was expecting. I did have a friend hold the pipe wrench, would be difficult for 1 person to do, but with 2 people is simple.
    I have not looked at the actual setup but from the rust on the unit and the manual, it appears the coupling is exposed before the shaft inserted, so for me the top priority is the torque not the look, so I would not hesitate to use a narrow jaw pipe wrench if the shoulder is were I could grab it.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

  8. #17
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    You can put as big of a Pipe Wrench as you want to on the area marked below to hold the coupling while tightening the nut inside of it. The coupling must be made out of a hardened tool steel because my 24" pipe wrench hardly put any teeth marks in it at all. The coupling is very hard. I did take some emery cloth to smooth up a small burr the pipe wrench made, but it was very minimal and I really would not have had to do anything to the coupling from holding it with the pipe wrench and it would not have been noticeable unless you looked closely.
    Name:  Drive Shaft Coupling Gear - side view Pipe Wrench.jpg
Views: 70
Size:  2.38 MB
    jimclemjr likes this.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

  9. #18
    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    Ha Ha, I was waiting on ATCDan to do his, with pictures, but I couldn't wait any longer
    .

    Oh how I want to work on mine. I’ve got about a week left on my house flip I’m doing and then I have a few projects on my own house to do. I’m having a 24x32 building with an attic put in soon as well. It pains me to see my sad looking wolvy sitting idle in the garage with a big puddle of dif fluid under it. I’m glad you beat me to it so I can see how. Lol.
    PapaSkeeta likes this.
    2016 Rspec. Probably everything EMP makes. Throttlemax pedal
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    Hunterworks green spring, 16gr weights, Sheave and slug kit
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  10. #19
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    Have to remember to save a old axle if I ever replace one or grab up a old one from someone. Weld a bar out the side of the inner splined hub. Be perfect for holding the assembly while tightening the pinion nut.

  11. #20
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    Happy to report that after 600+ miles of riding in Paiute and Moab, UT the pinoin seal (seal on front of rear differential) is not leaking at all, since I replaced it just before leaving for UT.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

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