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Axle Recommendations?

This is a discussion on Axle Recommendations? within the Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; At 3,711 miles I have just started getting a slight popping noise in my right rear axle when going forward and turn hard to the ...

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Thread: Axle Recommendations?

  1. #1
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    Axle Recommendations?

    At 3,711 miles I have just started getting a slight popping noise in my right rear axle when going forward and turn hard to the right at the same time. Time to replace it. Boots all in good shape, no cuts/tears and not leaking any grease.

    Was wondering what aftermarket axles others would recommend? I know Rhino Axles are probably the best, I just hate to pay close to $200 when so many other aftermarket axles are a lot less and I am fairly easy on the Wolverine and don't do a lot of hard riding. Looks like the OEM axle is around $170 and if I was going to spend that much I would go ahead and get the Rhino axle. For what it cost to replace with another OEM CV joint (~ $130) it looks like I can get a whole new axle and save the headache of tearing down, cleaning, re-greasing, and reassembly of the old axle.

    From testing, to determine where the noise was coming from I found out that the right rear inner CV joint gets a lot hotter, due to the exhaust, than the left rear inner CV joint does. After riding around in the yard for 20 minutes there is a big difference in the temperature of the two, I wonder if this may cause a shorter life expectancy due to the high heat constantly?

    I would like to know which aftermarket brands of axles owners have had good luck with and also which brands owners would not recommend, thanks. I do like the OEM CV boots on the Wolverine, they seem a lot tougher than a lot of the older neoprene rubber boots.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 05-08-2019 at 09:33 AM.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

  2. #2
    Veteran Budro2's Avatar
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    Papa I just had and did the same thing only mine was the left. On the forum someone talked about having to modify the rhino to fit. Don’t know if that’s still the case. I stayed away from that and went all balls 8 ball only because I thought it would be better for the 2” lift axle angle. It’s beefy like the rhino. Only 500 miles on it but so far so good.
    jimclemjr and PapaSkeeta like this.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, 1mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

  3. #3
    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    I have not had any axle problems or need with my Wolv, yet lol. In my axle experience with my Rhino (734 BBK) and its torque monster effect, I broke several axles of the 'normal' variety and kind of figured as cheap as they were, I like them as weakest link in the drive train. Axle is easier/cheaper than a diff or driveshaft. Every axle problem I had was in the shafts snapping at the joint, never a joint failure, but Rhino was not lifted significantly just shocks turned up (+2"). I did not know but do appreciate Budro posting about the All Balls axles and I just went on-line and checked them out. I believe I would go for the 8 ball axles especially if it was lifted. And springs do provide a lift as well. I believe that a ball every 45 degrees vs 60 degrees of axle rotation has got to be less stress and smoother. And the oversize shaft additionally makes it worth an extra $50 or whatever it was. In my experience with All Balls products I have always been impressed with their quality ad fitment vs price. My $.02
    Budro2, PapaSkeeta and Jraoffroad like this.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, SATV A-arms, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

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  5. #4
    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=PapaSkeeta;289014]
    From testing, to determine where the noise was coming from I found out that the right rear inner CV joint gets a lot hotter, due to the exhaust, than the left rear inner CV joint does.
    I just made me a heat shield out of some aluminum plate that mounts on top of the diff frame rails. I am anxious to see if it makes much difference in the heat transfer from the exhaust.
    Budro2 and PapaSkeeta like this.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, SATV A-arms, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

  6. #5
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    Will be interested in hearing how much the heat shield helps after some trail testing. I believe some owners in the past have said that the entire rear differential will get pretty hot to the touch after riding a long time.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

  7. #6
    Turbo noload's Avatar
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    That whole area gets too hot to touch, including the bumper, I have a full stainless steel heat shield that covers both axle boots and dif, but I dont have a heat gun or anything to measure temps with, but also no oil seal or boot issues either.
    2016 708 R Spec
    Hunterworks sheave 18gr rollers .75 shim, factory spring

  8. #7
    Veteran Budro2's Avatar
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    Someone on here did heat gun tests and did heat shields very early on and found they still get extremely hot.
    I still think it’s a worth while precautionary mod.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP front and rear bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, slippery washers,modified CVT cover, 1mm shim, slug kit, exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, pcv, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers, 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels, 1” rear spacers
    Trucker mud flap mod
    2" Gorilla lift
    Seizmik strike mirrors

  9. #8
    Turbo noload's Avatar
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    Thats one reason I went with stainless, its more thermally reflective than aluminum, which is what a lot of guys were making theirs out of.
    Budro2, jimclemjr and Overload like this.
    2016 708 R Spec
    Hunterworks sheave 18gr rollers .75 shim, factory spring

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    Silver Bullet jimclemjr's Avatar
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    I had an old speed limit sign that my son drug home from the country, thick and tough. Agree SS is a better idea. However I am figuring that the 1/2" to 1" layer of mud after a few minutes is going to be the best isolater, like a fire brick lol.
    Budro2 likes this.
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, SATV A-arms, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

  11. #10
    Turbo noload's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclemjr View Post
    I had an old speed limit sign that my son drug home from the country, thick and tough. Agree SS is a better idea. However I am figuring that the 1/2" to 1" layer of mud after a few minutes is going to be the best isolater, like a fire brick lol.
    Earthen barrier, the all natural green solution!!

    I like it!
    Budro2 and Overload like this.
    2016 708 R Spec
    Hunterworks sheave 18gr rollers .75 shim, factory spring

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