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Help with Torque limiter ?

This is a discussion on Help with Torque limiter ? within the Transmission & Drivetrain forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Sounds like my torque limiter on the front drive shaft is going to break and the part is back ordered and would like to do ...

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    Pavement Princess
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    Help with Torque limiter ?

    Sounds like my torque limiter on the front drive shaft is going to break and the part is back ordered and would like to do a run this weekend . Has any one welded one ? where did you weld ? Did you remove it to weld it ?

    Thanks
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    Far from stock Atcdan13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trottima View Post
    Sounds like my torque limiter on the front drive shaft is going to break and the part is back ordered and would like to do a run this weekend . Has any one welded one ? where did you weld ? Did you remove it to weld it ?

    Thanks
    This is a couple years old but what did you end up doing? I think mine may be going too
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    Sparky Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atcdan13 View Post
    This is a couple years old but what did you end up doing? I think mine may be going too
    Hey Atcdan, I’ve been hoping this would get an answer.
    Mine is working fine but I have slipped it a number of times climbing up over banks. The perfect recipe seems to be when the front wheels get airborne and then hook up while I bottom out on the bank and my foot is still on the throttle, hoping to have enough momentum to get that last little bit and get up over. You’ve probably read the other posts? I’ve read some on the Viking forum too! It’s been said once they start slipping it’s all down hill from there so I’ve been trying to avoid those situations now.

    One guy suggested drilling through and installing a shear pin so it would still slip if it was really in a bad bind and not damage the front differential or axles instead of welding solid. Another person suggested tack welding it only. The small weld would likely be enough for most of general use but would probably break in an extreme situation. I liked that idea the best myself and when the top of the tunnel is removed it’s really easy to just reach in there and tack it but here comes my big ? I’ve always heard that when welding on equipment, if the ground isn’t good enough when you begin to weld that you can get an arc between the the piston and cylinder wall. I’ve heard that disconnecting the ground cable at the battery stops this as well. I don’t know if that’s a fact or not but I’d be reluctant to try which leaves complete removal of the drive shaft to weld it. If I gotta do that I’d probably just install a new one. Can someone confirm if the battery disconnect is a myth or not? I won’t even weld on a trailer without disconnecting it from the truck!

    I’m not sure if that torque limiter has the ability to slip on both ends or just one but I put a straight line with a marker across mine on to the drive shaft on both ends and after having it in a situation where I heard it pop I’d look and it only ever slipped on one side. It’s been so long now that I don’t remember which side it was so you’d need to do something like that to confirm before deciding on the welding/shear pin idea!

    If you do something with it please post what, and how it’s working! It may be something in my future as well!
    jimclemjr and Paul65 like this.
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    Puddle Jumper
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    If the torque limiter looks like a clutch pack, people with wildcats have put grooves in the metal discs with a grinder and the welded them together. Usually happens when bigger tires are run. Some who have welded theirs, then had bearing or diff problems.
    2019 X2 R-spec SE, Black, Full cab, heater, wiper, tracks, Warn 4500 wireless winch,synthetic. Sendona wheels, 5/2, Sedona rip saws 27x11xR14 , Moose plow, Furion RV back-up camera, Garmin GPS. All Glass.

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    Ripsaw
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    Other than the RPM limiter. I've not heard of such a aspect (not sure what to call it) of the power train. I am not even clear where you're referring to above. The front wheel Lock opening up unlocking. I never heard any ATV or SxS using that as its not a feature nor would I ever consider it a feature by design.
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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    Other than the RPM limiter. I've not heard of such a aspect (not sure what to call it) of the power train. I am not even clear where you're referring to above. The front wheel Lock opening up unlocking. I never heard any ATV or SxS using that as its not a feature nor would I ever consider it a feature by design.
    It’s a press together slip clutch on the front drive shaft right under and at the back of the air box. No discs.
    The Vikings are notorious for trouble with them and there have been several wolverines on the forum with issues.
    Makes a popping noise when it slips as well as sometimes screeching.
    More prone to slip when in reverse and in diff lock backing uphill or out of a ditch/ mud hole etc.
    Designed to protect the front diff, axles and or something with the transmission in reverse!
    Once they start slipping they just continue to get worse.
    Most of the large crowd of Viking owners with problems we’re running 30s!
    Many have talked of welding them solid. One guy had his replaced 3 times and the dealer finally asked if they could weld it up and they did!
    Trouble is when researched, no one ever actually posts weather or not they blew anything up afterwards.
    Lots of info on the problem but little info on results from remedies other than full replacement of the drive shaft and usually it sounds like a long wait from the dealer to get it!
    It would be difficult to determine what strength of shear pin to use but just a light tack weld would keep it from slipping once it’s shot. Then if really under stress the tack would surely break. If it could safely be tacked while in place it would be an easy cure!
    Paul65 likes this.
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  8. #7
    Ripsaw
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    What, so once it slip its breaking the slip clutch at the same time and never the same?
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    Turbo noload's Avatar
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    36 years welding in a City Fleet Shop and the only thing I've ever fried was a plow controller (of all things) on a pickup plow while using gouge rod cutting out a rusted in hitch insert.

    We usually pull battery cables before welding on equipment, E-One Firetrucks require removing all battery cables and unplugging computers before welding. Electrical current can do some strange things for sure, especially if your TIGing with high frequency

    Never heard of arcing from cylinder to piston, but we also attach ground cable near weld area on the piece your welding to.

    If you ground to a wheel stud and weld on the front bumper you might arc across your pinion or carrier bearing and raise a burr, as an example.
    Budro2, blast and Paul65 like this.
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    Sparky Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
    What, so once it slip its breaking the slip clutch at the same time and never the same?
    I probably shouldn’t use the word clutch. SLIP JOINT. There isn’t any info really on its internal design. Bit of a mystery.
    Under a certain amount of torque it will slip. The more it happens the less torque it takes till one day it’s slipping under normal 4x4 use.

    If you’ve never heard this particular noise then don’t lose any sleep over it!
    Paul65 likes this.
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    Razorback belt temperature gauge, Blowhole CVT fan
    exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, PCV, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 Blackwater Evos 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels,
    2" Gorilla lift- Eibach springs
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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    Sparky Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noload View Post
    36 years welding in a City Fleet Shop and the only thing I've ever fried was a plow controller (of all things) on a pickup plow while using gouge rod cutting out a rusted in hitch insert.


    We usually pull battery cables before welding on equipment, E-One Firetrucks require removing all battery cables and unplugging computers before welding. Electrical current can do some strange things for sure, especially if your TIGing with high frequency

    Never heard of arcing from cylinder to piston, but we also attach ground cable near weld area on the piece your welding to.

    If you ground to a wheel stud and weld on the front bumper you might arc across your pinion or carrier bearing and raise a burr, as an example.
    Thanks Noload. Good info from a trusted veteran. I kinda thought you’d chime in but if you didn’t I was gonna email you. LOL
    Thanks also for the link you just sent. I’ll check it in a bit!
    blast likes this.
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 16gr weights, green spring, 1mm shim, modified CVT cover
    Razorback belt temperature gauge, Blowhole CVT fan
    exhaust tip w/ stock baffle mod, PCV, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 Blackwater Evos 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels,
    2" Gorilla lift- Eibach springs
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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